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clearway

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Everything posted by clearway

  1. Hi Keith, when i was nearing the end of my cutty sark build i realised i was one deadeye short!!!!!! Luckily i had a spare in my bits box- on the other hand i did end up with a few blocks left over to add to my odds n sods collection. Keith
  2. coming along nicely- i was considering buying this one myself but opted for billings hms victory instead. Keith
  3. looks fine from here, everything tidy and square- importent to get the skylight right as it is very noticable on the finished model. Good luck with the figurehead! Keith
  4. there is also www.model-dockyard.com based in u.k. but do overseas mail order as well as cornwall model boats.
  5. thanks boyd- will certianly bear your suggestion in mind- i use walnut because it has a really nice colour when it weathers a bit. Keith
  6. You should be able to order wood strip from either your local model shop or many of the online model shops. I ordered the extra wood for the wales from my local model shop. Keith
  7. strakes= planks, wales are the thicker bands going along the hull and stealers are infill planks. Keith P.S. also read plank on frame models volume 1 by harold underhill
  8. Looking very nice there. If you want finer window frames you can use strips of self adhesive paper cut from address labels or franking labels etc. applied direct to the glazing- i will be using this method for my billings victory.
  9. Thankyou Boyd, just using 5mm wide obechi for the wales as she is going to be painted. If i was leaving her "natural" finish would have used walnut. I am thinking of replacing all the ply posts for the pin rails with 4mm square walnut though and just varnishing them. Keith
  10. also you will need to taper the planks at the bow and most of the stern, as boyd says you can also use stealers- check my log there are shots of bow and stern and a shot of the hull upside down to give you an idea. Took me a couple of weeks tp plank mine. Keith
  11. While waiting for timber for the wales to be delivered (E.T.A. sometime this week) decided to finish the display stand- was varnished using ronseal quick drying dark oak stain and varnish. Also cut all the "blind" gunports to size. Keith
  12. looks good so far- i built the billings cutty sark and their method was to use blocks of balsa which were then sanded to shape after fitting- you then sealed and painted the hull so no good ifyou want a natural wood finished hull. Keith
  13. Nice job there,i used the copper tape method for my cutty sark (5mm wide x 15mm length) and ran the top two "runs" parallel to the water line- took something like 3000 tiles to do all the hull- it is the billings 1/75 version. Vowed i would never do it again, but here i am having just ordered 60 metres of tape for my Victory! Keith
  14. Thanks david- certianly enjoying the build- i think! Will certianly take a lot of scratchbuilding or upgrade of fittings to get a more convincing model with the billings kit though. Keith
  15. Not much advance over the weekend due to nice weather and gardening taking priority! Got the overlays for the prow, keel and sternpost in place, fine sanded the upper hull and opened out the "un-lidded" gunports. Next job is to attatch the wales when the timber on order with local model shop arrives. Will leave final shaping of upper hull till as late as possible as i dont want to weaken the bulwarks on the quater deck too much. Keith
  16. seeing this brings back memories from 17 years ago! I bought my cutty back in 1997 and the packaging for the fittings is a different style so may be 1970's vintage. Mine was just die cut as well- adds to the fun. Are you going to alter the unrealistic anchor deck?- see my post in finished kit built gallery. Keith
  17. looking great there, wish i had invested in the caldercraft victory instead of the billings one now! Keith
  18. looking good there, i recently remasted and rigged a very old version of the mantua kit for the owner of the local model shop which must of been about 30 + years old, luckily all the instruction/ plan sheets were still in storage at his grandmothers house! it does build into a nice model. Keith
  19. I find it can take upto 2-3 years to fully finish a ship of this size depending on how many hours a day you can put in. My billings cutty sark took about 3 years (with large gaps due to other models and family commitments) but i also altered and added a lot of alternate or scratchbuilt fittings. Keith
  20. i purchased the billings cutty sark in 1996 and that still had die pressed ply and seperate fittings, but i bought the st. roch a little later and that was laser cut with fittings included. The kits do take a bit of work and refinement but do lend themselves to improvement/ alteration easier than some other manufacturers. keith
  21. over the bank holiday managed to get the gunports cut to approx size (will be opened out fully later) ,got the gun carriages made and started sanding the hull. even though i'm modelling the lids closed i couldn't resist! will paint them matt white then stain and varnish them. primary rough sanding completed- will use fine grade from now. P.V.A'd all the hull below gunport level to help bind the planking together- this did lead to fun when sanding back though! Keith
  22. looking good m8- also if you only varnish one side you may warp the hull- best do both sides at same time. keith
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