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Jack12477

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  1. Jack12477
    George, yes, I find on this build when I can't get a reliable measurement off the plans that I'm relying heavily on Jack's Relativity Principle to locate the part on the ship - you know that one ! Plans and parts list called for part # 55 to be 2x2x7 mm - after I cut the piece out I found that it would not fit under the caprail and deck - so I had to trim it to 2x2x5 mm to make a snug fit.................. Ah yes ! Fun !!!!!!!!!
  2. Jack12477
    Ofencer29350, thanks for the info and link - any chance there's an English language version, I can't read or speak French.
  3. Jack12477
    Happy New Year All ! Hope everyone had an enjoyable holiday. Got in some shipyard time over the long holidays. Worked mostly on getting the rudder installed. Fabricating the actual rudder was simple, even the gudgeons and pintals were simple since AL supply the straps already formed and drilled out. The major challenge was drilling the hole thru the deck and ship for the rudder shaft. I made a photocopy of the deck plan layout, cut it to size to fit inside the gunwales, located the exact center for the hole, and using a sharp awl marked its location. BUT and this is the big BUT ! There is no mention of the angle to be drilled and the position (I found out while drilling) goes right thru the backbone (aka false keel) plywood. First I started the hole with a 1/16" drill bit, trying to eyeball the angle. Came close enough on the first pass. Then using successively larger diameter bits I enlarged the hole, except the backbone forced one of the bits slightly off angle. Using several different diameter round files I finally got the whole thing lined up with the stern post. Affixing the rudder to the hull was a cake walk thanks to AL's preformed parts. However the rudder post in the drawings and photos sticks up above the deck by some amount (no measurements - just pictures) and mine ended up flush to the deck. So a little improvisation will be necessary later down the road to get it high enough to attach a tiller. Photos follow: Now that I have completed steps 1 to 10 of the printed instructions the remaining instructions are these I like the comment about "most delicate and laborious work" ! So now it's picture book time And I have a feeling that some of the measurements for placing things is going to be done by the "looks about right" yardstick ! Oh and my new assistant keeps standing around the yard with his hands in his pockets, looking lost. More photos and updates to follow shortly
  4. Jack12477
    Mike, a suggestion: When you mention the USS Confederacy tell them it is the "sister ship to the USS Constitution" ! Whether true or not, they are probably too uninformed to know the difference. Go build the model and have fun building it !
  5. Jack12477
    Michael, how about this for "canopy" glue ! Some call it "watch crystal" glue. I have found it locally in Michaels or JoAnns stores. Works nicely . I use it mostly for cementing the knots on my rigging - dries flexible. It's called G-S Hypo Cement.
  6. Jack12477
    Gary, I'll be following along also.
  7. Jack12477
    Tom, very nicely done. I especially like the set of the sails. Excellent job. Congratulations on finishing it. I will definitely be using your build as a reference when I start my AL Constellation.
  8. Jack12477
    Great job Erik. Lovely looking model.
  9. Jack12477
    Looking very nice, Pete.
  10. Jack12477
    Nice improvisation Sal. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
  11. Jack12477
    Thanks Per. Yes, I probably dry fit that piece half a dozen times before finally gluing it in place and it still wasn't right. Pull up a barrel and join the party. Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
  12. Jack12477
    Ed, I have to echo Nenad's comment ! OMG !!!!
  13. Jack12477
    Coming along nicely, Mike
  14. Jack12477
    Nicely done. I like the results, especially the added tools.
  15. Jack12477
    Hi Nigel, thanks for the compliments on the boat and bird. I've used Testor's ModelMaster series paints for years on my plastic models. It's an excellent paint; their other series (ones you see in the teeny tiny jars) is fair; but the ModelMaster series is excellent. Of course, the best paints were the Floquil and PolyS paints but they've gone out of existence altho some hobby stores still have some in stock. For my woodcarvings, I've pretty much stuck to water based acrylics which I've now applied to boats. I have not tried ModelMaster paints on wood yet but have no reason to think they would not work well on wood. Probably need a different primer for wood than the Gesso I've been using. ModelMaster goes on well with a brush and is easily used (with their airbrush thinner) in an airbrush. Coverage is excellent with either method. I've used it in an airbrush to paint camouflage pattens with great results. The bird's feathers were burned/carved into the wood first using a Colwood Cub woodburner with the "B" tip, then they were painted using acrylics. Takes as much patience as tying ratlines. I haven't tried the woodburner on wooden ships but it would probably work fine.
  16. Jack12477
    Nice planking Mark. Also like the new stern coat of arms . Is that going to be further carved into a bas-relief or left as is? In either case it came out very well.
  17. Jack12477
    Nigel, very nice job on the sails and lines. I assume from your comments you are hand sewing the sails? Correct ?
  18. Jack12477
    Ratlines look good Robb. Nice job.
  19. Jack12477
    The shipyard's paint department. Representative sample of the paint "brands" used. I use the white painter's palette for mixing the colors. they're plastic, inexpensive, available in Michaels and are easy to clean.
  20. Jack12477
    Thanks Ken, Pete and everyone who clicked LIKE. Yes, Ken, for the most part Ceramcoat. Also Americana, another brand sold by Michaels. Actually the blue isn't that translucent. It was just easier to work from top to bottom. In addition if you look closely you will see a "rub" strake bow to stern. It's a strip of thin plywood cut to a curve that goes over the hull, so I painted it separate from the rest then glued it over to hide the blue/white demarcation line. Clamping it was a bear tho. The only Liquitex brand I used was the Gesso and Cobalt blue to darken the Ceramcoat blue. 99% of the acrylics I use are either Ceramcoat or Americana brand from Michaels - also used for my woodcarvings.
  21. Jack12477
    It's the aluminum foil used in the packages of Mucinex decongestant. Cut the little sheets up and you have scale aluminum strips.
  22. Jack12477
    Update: Painting of the hull is complete, except for a few touchups here and there. The entire external hull was coated with 1 coat of artists Gesso - after it dried for 24 hours I lightly (emphasis on lightly) sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (Gesso comes off easy if you sand to hard). I then proceed to mask the ship, starting with the deck area and then working to the outside. The blue coat was applied first, followed by the white band and lastly the black hull bottom. The paints are all water based acrylics, Michael's store brands. I described the color blending in post #42 above. Four coats of blue and four coats of white were applied; but only two coats of black (Lamp Black); the white is Titanium white (snow white).. The deck got 1 coat of WOP. Close-up photos certainly reveal the spots needing touch-up I notice there's some circular spots on some of the photos - it's either on the lens or something to do with the lighting - but it is not on the model itself.
  23. Jack12477
    I get all my acrylic paints in Michael's Craft stores, store brands like Delta Ceramacoat or Americana. Also use some Liquitex. For a "primer" I use artist's Gesso - all are water based. I've used them for years with my woodcarvings and am now using them on my boats. I apply them with an artist brush, Michael's brands. Have not tried them in an air brush as yet.
  24. Jack12477
    Pete, welcome to my build log. Thanks for the compliments. George, thanks. Yes, my son suggested using Gesso for my woodcarvings and now I'm trying it on the boat. It does raise the wood grain a tad but a little pass with 400 grit works nice. He has to sand his canvases after he applies the Gesso. Yea the bird needs finishing - this is the 2nd carving I did of him the 1st one is already sitting on a tree branch with eyes and legs - just been lazy about finishing this one. The "feathers" were done with a woodburning knife - almost as bad as doing ratlines. Okay, "W.C.Fields" - have some popcorn And thanks to those who clicked the LIKE button.
  25. Jack12477
    Spent a good part of the weekend masking the ship off for painting. Today I got a few tips from my artist son on the subtle fine points of blending paints to get the desire color. We were trying to pick a blue to match the box art. The formula he came up with was 1 big puddle of Delta Dreamcoat Blue Jay, then add 3 brush tips of Liquitex Ultramarine Blue (close to Cobalt blue), mix with brush and apply. (paint is water-based acrylic). Now I can hear the collective "hmmmmmmmmm" , remember artists don't work in precise measurements . Anyway I was able to duplicate the color in 3 separate batches for 3 coats. "Primed" the hull area to be painted first with artists Gesso (for those not familiar it's what artist coat their canvas with prior to painting), let it dry 24 hrs then lightly sanded, and painted. Got a pretty close match to the color in the "picture book instructions". So the interior bulkheads got 2 coats of paint (sand color) and the exterior got 3 coats of blue. Removed the masking tape and had to do a little touch up. The rub strakes also got 3 coats of blue before I install them on the model. Managed to keep the nice walnut strips clean of paint, they will get a coat (or two) of WOP. Photos will follow in next post. Oh, I had a visit from a little friend, came over from the woodcarving shop. Guess he wanted to know when I was going to give him a pair of eyes and legs black-cap chickadee

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