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Letters look fine JesseLee. Yup, figure heads should be painted and your choice of colors is just great. Cheers,

Outstanding John! The main aim is to show how these whalers had to work and with what equipment. This does the trick, a show and tell thing. Cheers,

Hello Pete, great seeing you build another fine Herreshoff Buzzards Bay boat! Sure brings back memories sailing in Holland, mamy, many moons ago. Cheers,

Yes, lovely lines indeed Patrick! Cheers,

Looking nice John. Now show us some metal work, eh. Yeah, a bunch of folks in the boat would really be the icing on the cake, go for it. Cheers,

Thanks Nenad and that goes for me as well, you come up with some very novel ideas. Keep up the good works my friend, your CS will be a jewel. Cheers,

Hello Dirk, WOW, that's a very ambitious project you guys are making. It's looking very nice and should be a great addition in the museum so people can see how it more or less was at the time when the VOC was a great company. I wish you and the rest of the builders much success and keep me posted. Cheers,

Hello Pete and welcome to my shipyard. Yes, this build is a little different from the O19 sub, which is now proudly displayed in my studio. And not to forget the little lobster boat I did. It's total departure from aircraft design, repair and flying them but I have always loved the sea and ships. I'm grateful for the help from Amateur Jan, Amazon Dirk and now also Hans. Pull up a chair and join the crowd, the coffee is always fresh and hot. Cheers,

Outstanding Nenad, looking very good. Sorry for the many hours of work but that'll keep you in plenty of groceries Cheers,

Thanks to all for the likes! They are all done now Remco. I used a short 0.5 mm brass rod clamped in a small vice and redid a few that were a tad too small. No need to make all new ones All of the eyelets have also received a dab of solder where the wires cross to keep them is shape. I'm busily working on putting them on the single sheaf pulley blocks - - - 32 of them little buggers. As mentioned before, they are very small and I'm winding up making new ones a tad larger. Needles to say, it's slow going. Then comes the cleaning and blackening of the straps and installing them. Cheers,

Good seeing you back again and surely hope things are going on the possessive side. Cheers,

Again my thanks for all the likes!!!! Good to hear you are still busy with ship modeling Dirk. I'm now very curious finding out what you are up to. looking forward seeing it. Yeah Remco, I plumb forgot about using a drill bit for making the eyelets. Sometimes the most obvious is overlooked. So you mean this way It's still a tad too large but the next drill bit down in size is broken. Cheers,

That's beginning to look very nice Patrick. re Ben's comments - that's why I don't like composite structural elements in aircraft. Even secondary structures I have my misgivings on because when they fail it'll effect the primaries. In any case, we don't have to worry about all that stress - load - stuff in models Cheers,

Brilliant way to work around the "no solder" issue. The results are what counts JesseLee. It's looking really very good. Cheers,

Thanks everyone for visiting my shipyard, your comments and also for the likes. As usual it's very much appreciated. Yes, for simulating the splicing of rope in this small scale is near impossible and I really didn't want to spend the time and effort to do so. In the end I think that my method works out acceptable. As mentioned in my previous post I am using a different method in making the little eyelets on one end of the pulley strap. It's done in a few seconds but I have to be careful not making the eyelets too small. Has happened to a few of them but making new ones is now a no brainer Stropping the pulleys seems to be going a lot faster now with only a few redoes. A teensy drop of soft solder on the eyelet part and after the first twist on the hook part secures the strop nicely to the pulley block. Actually, the "splicing" of the "ropes" takes more time, go figure. Here is the sequence go how I am now making the strops for the single sheaf pulleys. Step 1. Take short piece of brass wire (I used 0.3 mm - I would have liked thinner) and make a loop. Step 2. Grap the loop at its end in a pair of pliers, making sure not to cover too much of the loop end other wise the eyelet will bee too large. Conversely, too little and the eyelet will be too small for the "rope." It all depends on the rope size. Cheers, Step 3. Pull each end of the brass wire to tighten the loop and presto, you should have a nice eyelet. Here is the completed eyelet - sorry for the blurry pic, camera shake Cheers,

Fantastic job JesseLee! Congrats on a job well done, even after so many mishaps with the glass globe but you stuck with it and look at the results. Cheers,

Hardware on the pump intake looks exceptional Remco. If I didn't know the scale I would say it's the real thing. Yeah, those pesky domed burs - - when you don't want or need them. Great tutorial! Cheers,

Welcome back Sjors and Anja - looking forward to more updates of your beautiful build. Seems you like your new digs, congrats! Cheers,

Thanks everyone for the likes, it very much appreciated. Thought it's about time for an update. Have been busy with other things besides ship building but dit spend some good quality time in the shipyard. Still busy with the gun tackle, which is going very slow due to the size of the pulleys. In retrospect I should have made them 5 mm long instead of the 3.5 or so. Am still thinking about redoing them but now that I have put the brass wire braces on eight of them I may just stick it out. Perhaps a few that are really too small to handle but we'll see how it goes. So far I guess that it takes me about 4 to 5 hours per cannon to make the hardware but not including the actual fastening the tackle to the ship and coiling the ropes. I decided to make the pulley strops from brass wire instead of thread. It's a little more difficult but it allows me to make the strop, eyelet and hook for the single sheaf pulleys from one piece of brass wire. The double sheaf pulleys are easier because they don't need the eyelet on one end. Below are a few pics with explanations for my own records. Years from now I like to know how I did things. I did improve on them as time went by but that'll also be explained with the pics. This shows the method of making the eyelet on the single sheaf pulley strop. A piece of brass rod winding the brass wire around it one turn. I developed a simpler method the next day. That'll be shown in tomorrow's post. This shows a piece of 0.3 mm brass wire being wrapped around the pulley block. I had to keep the eyelet from unwinding by pinning it with a sewing pin. This too I fixed the next day by spot-soldering the eyelet. By twisting the hook-end the tension tended to untwist it. I tried to use only one twist on the hook-end to reduce extra bulk with too much of a brass lump. One end will be cut off with nail clippers and the other end is bent into a hook. This shows the completed strop with an eyelet on one end for the pull rope and the other end with a hook to attach the pulley to the deck or bulwark. The rope trough the eyelet is now ready to be spliced. How to splice scale rope fro rather thin cords. I cut short pieces of very thin sowing thread and took it apart into its three single threads. I removed the cotton parts to get to the nylon or Dacron threads. I now had very fine but strong threads to use as splice material. It looks thin here but it's about 3 X as thick as a human hair but a lot stronger. It really blended into the "rope" to make it look like a real splice. I'm happy with the result and simple method. This shows the splicing procedure being started. I made a single overhand knot with the thin thread just behind the eyelet. From there I continued making single knots, alternating from one side then to the opposite side with about 10 knots. I finished it of with a good dab of nail polish that i squeezed into the "splice" with my fingers. This shows the completed splice and completed pulley block. The only thing left is the blackening, which will be done after all the pulleys are completed. This shows the double sheaf pulley block with it's strop installed. Cheers,

Those curved beams came out super nice Remco. Worth the time you took on making them. Cheers,

A belated happy birthday JesseLee. Cheers,

Hello Sherry, Gwen and I send our most sincere condolences for the loss of your father in law. Our prayers go out to give you and the family the strength during this time of sorrow. Be well and be strong, With our love,

Thank you Dave and Lawrence for your very encouraging words. Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) seem to agree. Her comments were mainly on the one spindle that was thinner then the others and also the very blond look of the wood. Sometimes we rely too much on our photos not realizing that we may have distortion and then get wrapped around the axle thinking we have to rip everything apart again. Yes, sometimes it's called for and as all of you know I'll be the first one to do so - - - my junk pile can attest to that. Well, I'm continuing with the gun tackle hardware, i.e. the straps and ropes for the guns. It's very slow going and will post progress reports - - whenever - - - soon Thanks also to all who clicked the like button. Cheers,

Marvelous work Michael and good seeing you again at the bench. Cheers,

Nice work Rob! I love those Dutch designed ships. Cheers,