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Ryland Craze

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Everything posted by Ryland Craze

  1. I used Titebond. I placed my support blocks aft of the transom to lock it in place. Just remember that you have to remove the support blocks aft of the transom before you remove the keel and frame assembly after faring from the build board.
  2. I am enjoying your build log. You are making good progress. I hope you and your family stay safe.
  3. Thanks Peta for the how-to guide on making rope coils. I will refer to this when I get to making rope coils on my build. Your Avos is looking great.
  4. Nice job on the head. It reminds me of the original one that I saw at Mystic Seaport when they were refurbishing the Morgan.
  5. Welcome to MSW Sergio. I am looking forward to seeing your Titanic model.
  6. Looks real good Michael. I cannot wait to see it with the WOP on it. It will really bring out the beauty of the Cherry wood. Glad to see you have some time to work on this project as I know you must have some huge challenges at work. You guys are my hero's during this crisis and I appreciate all that you are doing for the public. Just be careful and stay well.
  7. Congratulations on your rigging and iron work. Your Longboat is coming along nicely. I appreciate your detailed pictures as I will be referring to them while building my Longboat.
  8. Diver, you are off to a good start. I agree with Chuck in that you need more frames installed on both ends of the build board. I would complete all of the frames and install them onto your build board. The you can start tweeking the frames to get them to set properly in the keel slots. I used blue painter's tape to hold the frames to the build board as there is some slight side to side adjustment built into the frame slot. The design of this kit almost insures that everything will fit just fine.
  9. Sounds like the frame is not setting in the slots properly. 3/16ths of an inch is quite a difference. Is there a gap between frame H and the build board when it is inserted with the letter forward? Posting a picture would help to figure out why this is happening.
  10. Nice models. Welcome to MSW. I look forward to seeing your AVS build log.
  11. Nice work on the carvings. Glad you are able to get back into your workshop after your surgery.
  12. I am looking forward to seeing this model in person. Truly a work of art.
  13. Congratulations on completing your cross section. I am looking forward to seeing it entered in the IPMS Richmond show on February 29th. It will definitely be an award winning model.
  14. Bob, you have done an excellent job on building your Longboat. Your craftsmanship is so clean and crisp. I cannot wait to see your next steps on this build.
  15. Kevin, Welcome to MSW. You have a nice looking Syren and I hope you start a build log. I will definitely follow it.
  16. Your Longboat is coming along nicely, Jean-Paul. Your build log is very detailed and will help future builders of the Longboat. Keep up the good work.
  17. Thanks Michael. I like this color because it is low sheen, almost a matte finish. When thinned, it levels out nicely. I may shoot some dull coat on it. I have read where Chuck mentions this in several of his posts.
  18. I always buy brushes that are on the upper end of quality. With the 40% off coupon, it makes them affordable. I clean them frequently during a long painting session and they seem to be as good today as they were on the day that I purchased them.
  19. I am not brand conscious as I buy my brushes from craft stores, such as Michaels or AC Moore. You can find all kinds of brushes in the artist supply section of the store. They are reasonably priced when you use the 40% off coupon.
  20. Bob, I am using Grumbacher Academy Acrylic Cadmium Red Medium Hue paint on this build. The cockpit seats below have nine coats of highly thinned paint on them and I will probably add another three or more coats. I thin the paint with distilled water and lightly sand the surface with 400 and 600 grit sanding sticks after every three or four coats. I use a thick brush as it will hold a lot of water. It is just like painting with water colors. I put a small dab of paint in my painting dish and add a drop of water beside the paint. I place a small amount of paint on the tip of my brush and then dip the tip in the water. This thins the paint. I am constantly adding water as the brush soaks it up. It takes time, but it leaves a painted surface without brush marks. I have to credit Chuck Passaro with teaching me this technique.
  21. Thanks Michael and Bob for your comments and for the "Likes". Bob, I also made a card template of the cockpit seats to get the initial position of the notches. I agree that completing the interior details is making the model look like a Longboat and I am excited to be moving forward to the next step of the build. I have applied one coat of Wipe-on-Poly (WOP) on the interior and will be applying another coat on the areas where there will be no paint. I feel that it is a good idea to lightly sand the WOP where you are going to paint as this will give it a surface for the paint to bite into. I know that Chuck paints over WOP on his models and achieves fantastic results. I would do a test on some scrap wood as different paints may react to the WOP. Also, I thin my paint to the constancy of water and apply many coats to get a smooth finish. I lightly sand the painted surface after three or four coats and usually apply around 12 coats of paint.
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