Ryland Craze

Thanks guys for the comments and for the "Likes". The kit comes with two types of keel assemblies. One is a simplified version which has scarf joints. The other is a complex version that has lap joints that requires some carving and sanding. I decided to go with the complex keel assembly knowing that if I messed up, I still had a simplified version. I took it slow and easy, taking many measurements with my caliper, to get a good fit. I cut and filed each joint so that it was half as thick as the keel. I am pleased with the results as the joints are tight and lay flat on a piece of glass. Here is a picture of the tools that I used. I failed to put my digital caliper in the picture.

Very nice and crisp. I like everything you have done. Thanks for the updates.

Thanks Michael and Jim. At 1:24 scale, this model allows you to add a lot of detail. On the down side, mistakes will be harder to hide. Chuck and Mike (Stuntflyer) have set the bar high with their quality work and I am sure Rusty will be building one. I am no where close to their skills but will do the best that I can. I am looking forward to this build.

I was one of the lucky ones who was able to obtain one of the first run kits of the Medway Longboat from Syren Ship Model Company. I ordered it Thursday morning and it made its way from New Jersey to Virginia and was in my mailbox Saturday afternoon. Upon opening the box, I could tell the quality of this kit that we have seen produced and designed by Chuck. I have attached pictures of the kit's contents. The laser cutting is some of the best that I have seen and there is very little laser char on the backside of the wooden sheets. The boxwood and yellow cedar strip wood is milled very nicely and has clean, crisp edges. All of the laser cut parts are easily identified and some have their part numbers etched on them or adjacent to the part. I am glad to be part of this group build and I look forward to following the build logs of other Medway Longboat builders. I also welcome suggestions from MSW members throughout this build on how to improve my model.

I applied Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to my basswood and then stained it with three parts of Minwax Natural to one part Minwax Golden Oak. I explained this in my build log here: Always test this on a piece of scrap basswood.

I am looking forward to following your build. I enjoy reading the current builds of our MSW plastic modelers and the photo etch really intrigues me. I also like the weathering of these plastic models. It brings them to life.

Congratulations on finishing your Ice Yacht. You did a beautiful job on this model and I like all of the details you added. I hope to see this model at the Northeast Joint Clubs Conference in April.

Your Pinnace is looking good. Glad to see you back in the shipyard. It was also great seeing you in Las Vegas at the NRG Conference. I know you learned a lot of new modeling techniques that you will use in building your Pinnace.

This will be the start of my Medway Longboat kit once I receive it. I have been following the development of this kit and it will be fun building it in a Group setting. I have watched projects being developed over the years by Chuck and each one gets better and more innovative than the one that preceded it. The first step in this build is to visit the downloads page which has all of the chapters of the build plus other information that will help you in the building of your Longboat. It can be accessed by going to the link below:

Jaeon, You are correct in that you will reduce the false keel along its entire length. This will form a consistent rabbet along the keel for the first plank (garboard) to lay. Good luck on your build.

Count me in. This means I need to get started on my Queen Anne Style Barge and have it completed very soon. I also plan to present the group build concept to my Club members as I feel some would benefit greatly in a group build environment.

The planking looks very nice. You did a great job lining out the hull.

Looking very nice.

At the top of the page, the message icon is next to the globe. Click on this and it will open the Inbox window. Then click on the Compose New button. In the To area, type KenW and complete this section with your message to him. Then hit Send and Ken will receive an email that he has a message. Definitely bring the model to the meeting next week as you will get plenty of help on solving the issue with the bulkheads.

Your work looks nice. I am going to enjoy following your build log.

Floyd, Here is a picture of the tiller on the Syren model in the US Naval Academy Museum. I hope this helps.

You are doing a great job. I look forward to following your progress.

I voted for the Dutch Boeier because it is different and small. I do feel that a Pegasus Cross Section would be a nice addition to your existing product lineup and would be a good seller.

I will be following your build log. The cherry wood looks real nice.

I am envious of these guys. I wish they would start a build log to share their progress with us.

Thank you Master Korbel for being a sponsor of Model Shipworld. I am looking forward to seeing your products and can not wait to see the joint venture with Syren Ship Model Company.

Thanks Chuck, Steve, B.E, John and Dave for your words of encouragement. I also appreciate the “Likes” and those that have looked in on my build log. I hope everyone has a Happy New Year and I look forward to finishing this model in the near future. Over the past year, I have added the printed friezes and the molding strip. I still need to paint the edge of the cap rail and molding strip white, but will wait till I am almost finished handling the model. I painted the waterline using Badger White and was dissatisfied with the color. The white had a grey hue to it and I did not like it, so I painted over it using Model Master Acrylic flat white. I am real happy with this color as it looks good with the white in the printed friezes. I brushed the paint using Chuck’s technique of using water thin coats of paint. Here is a stem view showing where the printed friezes meet at the stem. I used Model Master Enamel Dark Sea Blue to paint the forward edge of the stem. It was almost a perfect match for the printed friezes. Here is a photo of the stern transom with the painted frieze. I first painted the transom flat white. Then I cut out the printed frieze. I did not use the printed white border since I had painted my transom white. I glued it onto the transom using slightly diluted white glue. I also have made the oars and the main mast and have started on the rudder. I have a little work to do on the interior and then I will move on to the metal work. Thanks again for your support and I look forward to posting my progress.

Wow, did not realize that it has been over a year since I last posted anything. I have done some work on the Longboat and will post some pictures after the Christmas rush is over. Chuck, I hope your mother-in-law is doing better. I hope 2018 will be better for you and Patty.

Be sure that the forward edge of the garboard strake starts about 1/8'' forward of the scarph joint. I feel this strake is the most important of the strakes to be installed. I found out the hard way after installing three bottom strakes that my garboard strake was too far forward. I had to remove them and start over. You are coming along nicely on your build.

Looking good Rusty. I appreciate the close-up pictures.