Ryland Craze

I agree with Gregory that you should use the 3/16" planks. This should not cause you any problems during the planking. Good luck on your build and I look forward to following your progress.

Thanks Chuck. A compliment coming from you like that means a lot to me.

Thanks everyone for your comments and for the "Likes". I am really appreciative of those Medway Longboat builders that have created build logs as I refer to them often to see how they constructed a certain component of their build. This has helped me in my build. Michael and Jean-Paul, I like the Grumbacher Red as it gives a low sheen, almost matt finish. I like the red color as it does not have the orange tint that some of the reds do. Don, thank you for checking out my post and for your comment. I am very pleased with the model and I cannot wait to see it finished. This is a really nice kit and the instructions and materials are first class. Bob and Rich, my paint job is far from perfect, but I am very happy with it. The thin coats are the key to getting a good paint job. I must have around 20 coats of paint on this model and it is just like painting with water colors. I feel the more that you paint, the better your technique gets. Bill, thanks for your comment. I am following your progress on your Cheerful as I have this model on my shelf and considering it for my next build. Chuck, the cedar has worked out great. The WOP over the cedar has made it look like boxwood and I have used your technique for the painting. I am striving to get to your level of craftsmanship, but realize that I am no where near that. However, just trying has made me a better modeler than not trying at all. Thanks everyone for looking in. Please stay safe and wishing everyone the best of health and happiness.

It has been a while since I posted my progress on my Medway Longboat. The world has changed a lot since my last post. I have completed the painting using many coats of thinned Grumbacher Red Cadmium Medium Hue. I am satisfied with the outcome. It found that I achieved a better finish using a fatter round brush than the one that I posted a picture of in a previous post. I believe it laid down a much smoother coat than the smaller brush and the color was a consistent flat, slightly satin finish. I have a few more items to complete and I will be finished with the hull. Please stay safe.

Very nice job on your Sherbourne. You are making good progress.

Nice job on the fairing. You will enjoy planking. Bob has offered good advice. Just remember to not over bevel the upper inner edge of the plank as this could cause gaps to open up when sanding the hull. Plus, since you can see the planks from the inside, you want to keep the planks tight there also. Go slowly, do multiple fits and your planking will turn out just fine.

Grant, I will definitely be following your build log. I have the Alfa Romeo 8C-2300 Monza 1931 that I purchased from K-Mart in the late seventies for under $20. I completed the engine and wheels and it has been stored ever since. I have always hoped to finish this model. If I ever get back to this model, I know that I will have to redo those assemblies as the paints and aftermarket materials are so much more advanced than what was available in the 70's.

You are doing a fine job building this Picket boat. I am enjoying following your build log.

I would finish fairing the last bit of the transom where the laser char is, especially at the top of the transom where the "ears" are. It appears that the aft portion of that area needs more taken off near the ear. It may be the photo, but the transom edges look somewhat flat instead of angled. You have done a good job on the fairing and it looks like you have reinforced the bulkhead tabs nicely. This definitely helped keeping the bulkheads from splitting. I can tell this is going to turn out to be a nice build.

Welcome to Model Ship World. You did a good job on building your Longboat. I am looking forward to see your build of your Lady Nelson.

Welcome to Model Ship World. As Michael said, please start a build log of your dingy. We all like to see the work of others.

Your build looks nice. You are making good progress. Your work area looks very clean and organized.

I did not completely fill in the space between the bulkheads, I planked over what you see in the picture. I did not varnish any of the wood. I believe it is the lighting that makes it darker. Here is another picture where I used more lighting: Notice that I used a black felt tip marker on the outer edges of the bulkheads. This let me know that when I faired the bulkheads, as long as I had some black remaining on the edge of the bulkhead, I knew that I had not over faired them.

I made vertical cuts using a razor saw on the first layer of the plywood false keel to make it more flexible. I then put it in a jig to hold the false keel straight. After I installed the bulkheads, I placed wooden fillers between the bulkheads to make the assembly rigid. Once the false deck and the gunport patterns were installed, I had no problems with warpage. I have attached a picture showing what I did to the false keel.

Good solution for the warped keel. It really straightened it out. I had the same problem with my Sherborne kit.

Welcome to Model Ship World. It looks like you are off to a good start in this hobby. I look forward to seeing your progress on your ship model.

Like Bob, I also "start in the middle and fair the frames towards the bow and then the middle to the stern or visa versa but start in the middle". I use nail files that I purchased from a beauty supply store. They are somewhat flexible and contour to the frames. I have also made my own using 1/8" plywood, rubber cement and various grits of sandpaper. I start with the 180 grit and finish up with 240 grit for the frames. I use nail files for most of my sanding needs. Just go slow and use gentle pressure as you do not want to flex the frames. Let the grit in the files do the work.

Beautiful job on your Pinnace. Your work is very crisp and clean. I like the modifications you made to the kit version.

Looking good Bob. You are almost at the finish line. I hope to post my progress soon.

I used Titebond. I placed my support blocks aft of the transom to lock it in place. Just remember that you have to remove the support blocks aft of the transom before you remove the keel and frame assembly after faring from the build board.

I am enjoying your build log. You are making good progress. I hope you and your family stay safe.

Looks nice. You are making a lot of progress.

Thanks Peta for the how-to guide on making rope coils. I will refer to this when I get to making rope coils on my build. Your Avos is looking great.

Nice job on the head. It reminds me of the original one that I saw at Mystic Seaport when they were refurbishing the Morgan.

Welcome to MSW Sergio. I am looking forward to seeing your Titanic model.