Ronald-V

That is some serious bending there! But you managed that well, looks good

Update: Installing the stern gallery...this part went pretty smoothly! I think the pre-fitting when I was attaching the lower stern counter (post #92) definitely helped everything fit nicely...below is a photo report of how I glued the parts. First pre-fitting the (inner) stern fascia. This is the base that has to look good. Everything measured and worked from there. It turned out that the (inner) upper counter fit perfectly in between, which was a relief and confirmation that everything was exactly where it should be. Already tried the nails so that I can later push it into place with gluing. Gluing was easy and clamping was not difficult. Then it was just a matter of gluing the Stern fascia in place (it could rest nicely on top of the upper counter) And the result looks nice and straight and good (I think so ) Now comes the trickier part...the side galleries that probably need some modification since I have open doors. Let's take a step by step look at how I'm going to tackle it.

I wish you all the best with this one! A brave choice to go for an (old) Corel kit but I think it will be good in your skilled hands I do think it's a nice handsome little ship when it's finished.

It would be nice if manufacturers would upgrade their products as newer techniques become available...but of course there is a price tag attached to that. I do wonder why some manufacturers continue to stick to white metal castings (like Artesania Latina with the new Victory) and don't switch to new techniques in the newer models

Agreed...I have it too and I don't think the quality and accuracy are very good, perhaps the Proxxon is more accurate here...although I have no experience with it (but since they are more focused on model building, you would think it should be)

Great planking!

Thanks! And yes I considered the MF70...but didn't really see an application for this kit at first sight. So for now I kept the money in the wallet. Maybe I can use it for a later project, but this way I can also spread the finances a bit I don't have a very big budget at the moment.

If I would add something...a disc sander is one tool that I use all the time and wouldn't want to be without, made life a lot easier Also for just kit building...it's fast and precise

Ah then we mean the same thing 👌

Nice clean work again! With some varnish it will look amazing

Thanks Brunnels! And thanks everyone for all the likes, I really appreciate it

Interesting execution of the Victory Personally I don't like all the aesthetic choices of the cutout (the white gunports), but everyone can decide for themselves to adjust that. By the way, you have to be a bit of an idiot to rig 104 cannons lol😆...or you'll go crazy after rigging 104 cannons🤣

Maybe the first 5 planks or so would not require edge bending, but not sure how you would plank the rest of the bow without it? And by edge bending you just remove the need of using force

Update: Ok, first I placed the spirketting. First painted and then placed on the model. Enough clamps were of course needed to get good adhesion everywhere. The upper parts had to be a bit higher than the adjacent bulwarks according to the manual... I did this, but unfortunately not enough, which is why the spirketting protrudes a little bit at some gun ports. I first thought about sanding those parts away, but I think that will look weird. You can only see it if you sit lower than the water level and then look up. It is actually not noticeable at all unless you know about it. So I will leave it like this (I saw the same in almost every other log, so many people seem to have the same problem) Secondly I placed a waterway of 1x1mm boxwood with a very small beveled edge (the beveled edge could have been a bit bigger). I think that this connects the spirketting and the deck nicely. And thirdly...I drilled the drainage/scupper holes. First I made a sort of center point with a hand drill so that the Dremel doesn't "search" afterwards. Some things I learned...support yourself with your hand and Dremel on the deck so that you don't vibrate. And first turn off the Dremel after you have drilled deep enough, and then take it out. If you don't do that, you can still touch something with a rotating drill, or the hole won't turn out as nice. By the way, I just kept 1mm holes (same size as Chris used with the lasered deck) Now I have to touch up a few spots with the paint. Next step will be...the outside of the captain's cabin. Another exciting step

That is some nice tight planking there!

Pearwood is indeed a beautiful wood to work with. Personally I do not pre-soak the planks, apart from the garboard strake which I kept in 1 length. The drying time seems to me something that would take a lot of time. I myself prefer an iron and plank nipper (edge bending with the "Chuck Method"). That is pretty fast and clean...but it just depends on what you feel comfortable with

Sorry to hear that...I wish you all the strength and love for this difficult time

Beautiful contrast in colors! And nice precise work too...lovely

That looks beautiful!

Looks good! I can imagine that it is a precise job that cannot be rushed. I am not the fastest builder myself compared to others, but then I try to work on the model only when I really want to. Previously I sometimes wanted to "finish something" and then it was not really relaxing anymore and it also looked less nice.

Looks great!

Very nice! I really love this one, just looks cute Congratulations on finishing it

Nice clean lines! Really nice

That is lovely indeed! Shows the beautiful lines of this ship