Keith_W

17 hours ago, Sjors said:

Question 1: How do you get that first deck between the frames.......

Question 2: You don't need to plank the lower decks ,even a small piece ?

1. The first deck is cut in half lengthways. You insert one half of the deck from the stern, and manouvre it into place. Then you insert the second half. 

2. No you don't. 

Keep at it. And make sure you look at other RW build logs. I didn't have much to look at when I started my build, but now there seems to be enough information on this site to help you along. Let us know if you need any help. 

Fantastic! I'll be following this build. Hopefully i'll finish my build before you, given my 3 year head start  

Amazing! I only managed to browse through a few pages, but I will definitely look at the rest when I have some time later. 

I agree with Steve, she doesn't look complete without the upper mast. 

Good on you for working through chemo. 

Two words ..... AWE SOME!!

Bloody grouse, mate. 

(Go google it)

5 hours ago, Greg the peg leg sailor said:

G'day Mark 

The lanterns looks a lot better than before! 

Maybe a black dry brush finish over the gold, might help with the 3D effect. If it doesn't work, you can redo it with gold again. ♺

Havagooday my friend 

Greg 

Greg, dry brush picks up raised areas, so it is used for highlights. Therefore it should be a light colour. Washes sink into recessed areas. They are for shadows, therefore it should be a dark colour. Personally I would mix some gold in with black and make a wash with that. I have found that a straight black wash onto a light coloured surface tends to leave water droplet marks as it dries. 

Mark, when it comes time for me to do my stern, I am planning to use a plastic modeller's trick and apply a thin black wash to the carvings. This creates an illusion of depth in modelling scales. Have you considered this? 

Nice progress, Vince. BTW, how come you are posting as "pirozzi"? 

That is truly spectacular! Now what are you going to do about Ken and Barbie? 

Sorry guys, I am still here. I decided that I needed a new direction in life given that I have put on so much weight over the past few years. Ship modelling is a relatively sedentary hobby. It's not that I am not interested in it, I am. And I do want to get back to work with it. But for now, I have taken up cycling and golf again and I spend my weekends riding 50-100km with my friends. I have lost 5kg so far, but I have another 15kg to go. 

I saw the pictures of your tiny boats and I have only just picked my jaw off the floor in amazement. This is truly superlative modelling. Well done. Incredibly well done. 

The thing is with tweezers I find that if any CA gets on them they have to be polished back as CA builds up in layers making them useless.

Try this. Pour some acetone into a glass jar, large enough to fit your tweezers in (I use pasta sauce jars). Put your CA caked tweezers into the jar and close the lid. After about 5-10 minutes, take it out and give it a wipe. Your tweezers will be as good as new. 

When you used the iron, did you use just the heat from it or steam too?

No steam. Soak the wood in water (I use my bathtub - no need for fancy wooden cylinders) for a minimum of 1 hour (more if the wood is thicker than 1mm), then apply the iron. 

This build log shows what is possible - if the manufacturers of wooden ship kits invested in the same technology. 

Poochie I built my first two models without a plank bender. I used a household clothes iron to bend the planks. I bought a plank bender before my current build, but I still prefer using the clothes iron. The plank bender is better for precise curves, but the clothes iron is much faster. 

Kevin, I downloaded your second image and looked at the EXIF info. I see that you are using a Canon 1300D, at 32mm focal length, f/4.5, 1/60 shutter speed, ISO 160, and shooting in Program mode. The reason you can not get a decent picture is because the depth of field is too shallow. 

May I suggest you try this: Aperture priority mode, f/11, auto-ISO, shoot your lens at the widest setting, and tripod. Also, try to avoid taking images where your model is angled, as it is in both your pictures. This means that part of the picture will be in focus, while others are out of focus. 

That weathering looks great, by the way. 

Just caught up with your build log. It looks magnificent, I love those contrasting woods. It reminds me of exquisite marquetry. 

As for a name for your ship, you could name it after your wife. 

Wow, that is just insane. I have a question though - when you paint such small parts, surely you run into the limitations of the particle size of the paint and surface tension? How do you stop paint and primer from clogging up holes and tiny details, whilst ensuring enough coverage to hide the metal? 

Bleah, all you latecomers I was first in this thread (apart from the OP himself), just like I was the first in Dan Lester's thread! Plastic models + PE ... love them. And no, I don't own shares in a prescription glasses company. 

Oh boy. Another interesting build to follow. I'm pulling up a chair for this one. 

That is pretty amazing work, and remarkable effort for such a tiny part. 

Have your micro-grit sanding cloths arrived yet? I would love to see how well your hull polished up. 

I think that a kit at this price should include better fittings. For a start, they could include a photoetch sheet with the following components:

- gunport hinges. The standard ones supplied are dreadful. Too chunky, out of scale, and poorly molded. I would even go so far as to say they look like a bad joke.
- filigree decorations for the stern. The standard fitting looks more like a coin than filigree.
- rigols. The kit does not provide you with any, despite indicating a large number of rigols on the plans.

Furthermore, laser parts which are supposed to fit together don't fit. Example are the laser cut bulkheads, which slot into the false keel. There is about 0.5mm play between these parts, so they need to be shimmed. This does not inspire confidence.

Whilst I am enjoying my kit, we had to band together with a few others to get rshousha to make a custom run of RW gunport hinges for us, at additional cost.

The RW kit is one of the most expensive on the market. It SHOULD include photoetch fittings, or at least the option to purchase them.

I have a feeling that Euromodel have not updated any of their kits or introduced any new models for a very long time. They are not like Caldercraft or Victory, which are busy developing new models with great new innovations. I would hope that Euromodel believe in reinvesting in their business. The RW is a unique kit, because it is the only kit which features this particular subject. But just imagine what would happen if Amati or Panart decided to release a Royal George ...