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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. I'm in, too. And in the front row! That spreadsheet is a spot on idea. I've read that Halinski is a top shelf company.
  2. Denis, you're right; the Preiser figures aren't inexpensive. You could save some by buying unpainted ones, but then you'd be painting up all those little figures. What is your time worth? Maybe you could sweet-talk the Admiral into assisting you by painting them for you?
  3. Another source for detailing of US fleet subs is Nautilus Models: http://nautilusmodels.com/orderpage-USA.htm
  4. Check this company out: http://www.archertransfers.com/index.html They have a wide range of rivets and weld lines, along with a lot of other goodies.
  5. Mark, I've found that I can do a couple of steps, then have to go do something on a larger size for a while. Working in Z and N scales, I get part of a window or door done and I'm off on a more eyeball-friendly aspect of the build. Time to break out an Optivisor or strong drug-store reading glasses, too.
  6. Paul Allen's crew has found the wreckage of Lady Lex in 3,000 meters of water in the Coral Sea. See here for details: https://www.paulallen.com/uss-lexington-wreck-located-rv-petrel/
  7. WK, I'm impressed that have taken this medium and done such a nice job with it. You have some good skills working with corrugated cardboard. Keep it up.
  8. Piet, it's good to remember the good times. Our minds are funny/odd in what it chooses to remember. Luckily we can keep the good memories fresh and let the bad one sink into the depths. Cherish those good ones. A lot of brave men died to preserve freedom.
  9. Hey, don't forget Bluejacket has a 1/192 scale USS Cairo, an American Civil War Brown Water Navy gunboat. Much more warlike, but a center paddlewheel boat. It's solid wood hull with brass and Britannia metal detail parts.
  10. Jorgen, make sure the stain does not dry to a gloss. If it does, you will have to remove it with fine steel wool or sandpaper.
  11. Elijah, you should check into an auto parts store for the Bondo spot glazing putty. It's used to putty over dents on autos, but works well on models, too. It is a little smelly, so work with it in a well ventilated space. You may also consider latex gloves and a vapor mask, too. The cannons and table ware look good.
  12. They print the parts, you get a choice of printable materials. If you have a design ready to go, you'd have to work with them to get it printed. Like Ron says, they have high end printers with finer resolution than a home unit. I have a friend who wanted to print HO scale pipe tees ready to go. He had to adjust the orientation and resolution to the point that the purchaser has to drill out the tees for 0.019" wire (typical train air line for the brake system). My intention was to show a site with a lot of aftermarket details for mostly iron/steel navy ships. The guys building more modern ships may want finer detail on gun turrets and hose reels or replace bridge/conning tower structures. The armor and model railroaders have adopted a lot of these improvements. I'm not a CAD guy, so I'm impressed with the work these folks do.
  13. There is a 3D printing company under Shapeways call Model Monkey. They have a lot of ships parts in a variety of scales and cover Age of Sail to more recent offerings. They have just announced ship's wheels for a number of British and US ships. Here is one page of their catalog: https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey/1-16-1-200-scales Here's one for ship of the line ships wheels in 1:72 scale: https://www.shapeways.com/product/JJNDUKWSQ/1-72-wheel-and-pedestal-for-ships-of-the-line If you want to replace carronades they have them also: https://www.shapeways.com/product/67LWD97AK/1-72-royal-navy-68-pounder-carronades-set-of-2 Scout around their site. Just thought I'd highlight a site that supports the hobby.
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