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Everything posted by Canute
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The Grando, according to the AOTS by Goodwin, carried 1/2 lb antipersonnel swivels. Have to have something to protect the crew. Numbers range from 12 to 18. See page15 in that book. They had pedestals arrayed along the rails. The General Arrangement drawings show 4 each side of the quarterdeck and 4 arrayed around the forecastle. May want to beef up a few of your railings.
- 215 replies
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- convulsion
- caldercraft
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Might toss 'em some acorns or whatever nut trees grow around Portland. Here we have hickorys and walnuts. Careful driving.
- 425 replies
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Making filler harder
Canute replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Is that stainable? I've used the red stuff on plastic, works well. But, it was getting painted after it dried and sanded. Painted up well.. -
Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
Canute replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I'd recommend adding a water trap on any compressor. I read about them years ago, added one to my Craftsman compressor and haven't had any issues with moisture since. It's good insurance.- 39 replies
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Make it look like brass
Canute replied to rcmdrvr's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Don, you can look for Testors Model Master Metalizer Brass lacquer paint; bottle, no spray cans. Its non buffing, so it may not be very shiny. Also, Alclad2 has a shiny brass airbrush only lacquer. For Alclad, surface prep is key. That may be a route for shiny ship-board brass. -
Matt, you're a renaissance man! Or Jeffersonian. Whatever, such talents. The netting is a great idea. Two-timing, nah! Just preplanning. Ranger as pirate sounds interesting. Go for it. But save the instructions for the pictures. There are some translations required, but after the Italian to English translation, you'll also need to translate that into squirrel-speak. I'm debating whether to work on the Connie section or the MS Picket Boat. I'm an ACW buff, so the Picket boat may win. And as the Cap'n suggests, consult with the good Dr Per, too
- 425 replies
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Well, the frames are shaped, dried, sanded and spot glued to the mold. I expect to fair the transom tomorrow. Starting to look like a boat. I looked at fitting the larboard garboard plank, (say that 3 times fast!) since I had previously marked up the stem for fitting the hood ends. More boiled wood.
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Mobbsie, can do easy, checking up on that build. Looking forward to it. I had a buddy where I worked who built a model trebuchet. Said it was the heavy artillery of the Middle Ages. I thought it was pretty interesting. He wanted to build a real working one on my farm. The Admiral said no, might scare the horses.
- 255 replies
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- granado
- bomb ketch
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So many good ideas to make notes on. I hope to hold up the standard you've all set. I don't know yet what the Admiral has in mind with respect to the sails. She did say the kit's colors would look good, up on the fireplace mantle. Sounds like I'm painting the hull in gray and white. I hope she let's me weather the jewel.
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Mobbsie, could I be so bold as to ask what the secondary build might be? Inquiring minds want to know (OK, we're nosy).
- 255 replies
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here's a few pics of the frame mold: Frames on the molds. Got a couple that cracked. Matt, here's the transom stained and reversed. With some wintry weather rolling in this afternoon, looks like a fine time to finish off the frames. I should twist a few of the frames towards the stern to get them to lay on the molds where they have been faired. There's something almost Zen like, bending these frames.
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Is there a better #11 blade handle
Canute replied to roach101761's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
My Admiral, the Chief Cook, steels her Henkels knives when she uses them. I think I could shave with some of them. And a master doll house furniture builder friend of mine (his stuff is very high end) uses Excel knife blades. Says the Xacto ones are brittle (true) and so are the scalpel blades. And he hones his blades to a razor edge. -
Thanks, lads. I was attempting to further answer last night, but we lost power due to the gale force winds. Sounded like I had a freight train outside my window. The interweb connection crashed. Anyway, the initial frames soaked in hot water, just under a full boil, for 15-20 min. Guess I'll add a wee bit more soak time. Looks like I need to do 4 frames over. I did flex the frames to see which was the best flex direction, but admit I was rushing things. Must remember "Patience, grasshopper".
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Mobbsie, very nice work. Thanks for sharing it.
- 255 replies
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- granado
- bomb ketch
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Nighty-night or good morning to y'all. This most recent thread is getting too scatological for family reading.
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Matt, have you done a broad axe? I think it was used to shape planks. The handle won't be too long, and the cutting edge was square. Saw one on an old "This Old House", when they did a timber frame house.
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Jay, one of the best looking copper paints is from Alclad II. Its a lacquer and should be air-brushed (no brush painting with it) over a primer coat. The surface should be sealed and smooth. Their site is alclad2.com. Two shops in New Castle NSW stock it, according to the Alclad website
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Making filler harder
Canute replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The wood glue prevents staining, essentially sealing the wood. If you want stained wood, do it before doing any glue ups. You may have to apply pre-conditioner, especially before staining basswood. -
Making filler harder
Canute replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Tuff, you just described most bottled sanding sealers. No reason they couldn't also double up as filler. I like it! -
Hey Chuck, I'd like to tag along and follow this build. Interesting technique.
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- patrick henry
- lauck street shipyard
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