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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. The Grando, according to the AOTS by Goodwin, carried 1/2 lb antipersonnel swivels. Have to have something to protect the crew. Numbers range from 12 to 18. See page15 in that book. They had pedestals arrayed along the rails. The General Arrangement drawings show 4 each side of the quarterdeck and 4 arrayed around the forecastle. May want to beef up a few of your railings.
  2. Might toss 'em some acorns or whatever nut trees grow around Portland. Here we have hickorys and walnuts. Careful driving.
  3. Is that stainable? I've used the red stuff on plastic, works well. But, it was getting painted after it dried and sanded. Painted up well..
  4. I'd recommend adding a water trap on any compressor. I read about them years ago, added one to my Craftsman compressor and haven't had any issues with moisture since. It's good insurance.
  5. Don, you can look for Testors Model Master Metalizer Brass lacquer paint; bottle, no spray cans. Its non buffing, so it may not be very shiny. Also, Alclad2 has a shiny brass airbrush only lacquer. For Alclad, surface prep is key. That may be a route for shiny ship-board brass.
  6. Matt, you're a renaissance man! Or Jeffersonian. Whatever, such talents. The netting is a great idea. Two-timing, nah! Just preplanning. Ranger as pirate sounds interesting. Go for it. But save the instructions for the pictures. There are some translations required, but after the Italian to English translation, you'll also need to translate that into squirrel-speak. I'm debating whether to work on the Connie section or the MS Picket Boat. I'm an ACW buff, so the Picket boat may win. And as the Cap'n suggests, consult with the good Dr Per, too
  7. Cap'n, I marked up some pencil lines on the stem using the plans. I've double checked the placement against the instruction pictures. And I'll do it all over again,since you so kindly reminded me. I have to keep telling myself this is not a race. Feels good when stuff fits and looks good.
  8. Well, the frames are shaped, dried, sanded and spot glued to the mold. I expect to fair the transom tomorrow. Starting to look like a boat. I looked at fitting the larboard garboard plank, (say that 3 times fast!) since I had previously marked up the stem for fitting the hood ends. More boiled wood.
  9. Mobbsie, can do easy, checking up on that build. Looking forward to it. I had a buddy where I worked who built a model trebuchet. Said it was the heavy artillery of the Middle Ages. I thought it was pretty interesting. He wanted to build a real working one on my farm. The Admiral said no, might scare the horses.
  10. So many good ideas to make notes on. I hope to hold up the standard you've all set. I don't know yet what the Admiral has in mind with respect to the sails. She did say the kit's colors would look good, up on the fireplace mantle. Sounds like I'm painting the hull in gray and white. I hope she let's me weather the jewel.
  11. Mobbsie, could I be so bold as to ask what the secondary build might be? Inquiring minds want to know (OK, we're nosy).
  12. here's a few pics of the frame mold: Frames on the molds. Got a couple that cracked. Matt, here's the transom stained and reversed. With some wintry weather rolling in this afternoon, looks like a fine time to finish off the frames. I should twist a few of the frames towards the stern to get them to lay on the molds where they have been faired. There's something almost Zen like, bending these frames.
  13. My Admiral, the Chief Cook, steels her Henkels knives when she uses them. I think I could shave with some of them. And a master doll house furniture builder friend of mine (his stuff is very high end) uses Excel knife blades. Says the Xacto ones are brittle (true) and so are the scalpel blades. And he hones his blades to a razor edge.
  14. Thanks, lads. I was attempting to further answer last night, but we lost power due to the gale force winds. Sounded like I had a freight train outside my window. The interweb connection crashed. Anyway, the initial frames soaked in hot water, just under a full boil, for 15-20 min. Guess I'll add a wee bit more soak time. Looks like I need to do 4 frames over. I did flex the frames to see which was the best flex direction, but admit I was rushing things. Must remember "Patience, grasshopper".
  15. Bent the frames on the mold. Tried the one piece frames;first one bent OK, broke two. Went back to doing one side at a time. Looks like I'll have to redo a couple. They cracked when they dried. And a question, can I re-soak the frames to make them lay on the molds better?
  16. Nighty-night or good morning to y'all. This most recent thread is getting too scatological for family reading.
  17. Matt, have you done a broad axe? I think it was used to shape planks. The handle won't be too long, and the cutting edge was square. Saw one on an old "This Old House", when they did a timber frame house.
  18. Jay, one of the best looking copper paints is from Alclad II. Its a lacquer and should be air-brushed (no brush painting with it) over a primer coat. The surface should be sealed and smooth. Their site is alclad2.com. Two shops in New Castle NSW stock it, according to the Alclad website
  19. The wood glue prevents staining, essentially sealing the wood. If you want stained wood, do it before doing any glue ups. You may have to apply pre-conditioner, especially before staining basswood.
  20. Tuff, you just described most bottled sanding sealers. No reason they couldn't also double up as filler. I like it!
  21. I put some 1/64 wood I stained over the laser etch. Wasn't too wild about the graining of the wood, so I ended up flipping the transom anyway. I propped it up so that it was level and touching the horses and stern keel. Glued it up. So the quarterdeck side will be planked. Sheesh!
  22. The transom is attached to the mold, finally. And the keel is pinned to the mold, too. Later this week, I'm going to try a few full frames at midship after a 5 min boil. I'm busy with other fun stuff the next few days.
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