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Everything posted by Canute
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OW-OW-OW. When I was about 9, I had a kid throw a stickball bat at me on my bike. I went over the handlebars and landed on my right shoulder. Ended up as a green stick break of my right collar bone, 6 weeks in a sling. Back in the days when our bones were semi-flexible. It was the next to last week of school, so the first month of summer vacation I wore that sling. I hope your sling/plate doesn't cramp your build, but between the break and the meds, I'd be surprised. Take care.
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The Sinking of the Bismarck ... with LEGOs ...
Canute replied to uss frolick's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Superb work. Thanks for sharing. -
That's a relatively recent term. I think the time period of most of Gary's builds precede the tagging era of anything not moving getting marked. I have a few friends who are masters of the art. They model the 80s and later. As a modeler of the post WW2 to approximately 1960 time frame, I don't have that issue to play with. Chalk marks from switching is about it.
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That wash worked a treat for your decks. Big improvement, Greg. 👍
- 200 replies
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- Transport No. 103
- Hasegawa
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It all depends on how thick the decals are. Some are very thin and need 1-2 coatings of SOL; others are very thick. I have a bottle of something called Solvaset. Its the last setting solution to use and only on very stubborn, thick decals. There were a few model railroad companies that printed very thick decals and the Solvaset was the only thing that worked. Like OC says, put down a coating and walk away. Let it dry before reapplying more solution. 😉
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One idea is to take a dead flat piece of glass, glue down a sheet of 80 to 120 grit sandpaper and start working the conning tower resin in a circular pattern. Check frequently to ensure you are staying even. Do it outside and wear a dust mask. Slow and steady. Hacking off an irregular sliver of resin with a razor saw is not for the faint of heart. How could you hold it to cut? I've done this sanding on some limited run resin kits. The parts are made in open molds and the backsides of parts can be uneven.
- 113 replies
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- Cairo
- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
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F4U-1A Corsair by DocRob - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/32
Canute replied to DocRob's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Arizona would be a welcome build, in a pre December 7, fit. On some forums, the paint job (gray versus blue) fires up flame wars as to who is correct. I have no oar in the water on that. I just love a well documented build and finishing log. Your work, whatever the build, will do your subject proud. 😄 -
Sea Harrier FRS1 by AJohnson - FINISHED - Airfix - 1:72
Canute replied to AJohnson's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I was in St Louis in'75 picking up an Imperial Iranian Air Force F-4E to ferry to the Shah. We got a tour of the facilities and saw that mocked up Super Harrier (I presume), tucked in among the Phantoms and Eagles MickyD was cranking out. The jet I picked up had one hour on it. That was the Functional Check Flight they did before shipping it out. Whatever writeups they may have had were insignificant. The jet smelled like a new car. The forms were clean, no carry overs. -
What did you think? He's really good for aircraft, but does a decent job on naval colors.
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Check out the Cybermodeler site. This is the USS Essex and shows Viet Nam era colors: https://www.cybermodeler.com/naval/essex/essex_all.shtml For paint selections look here: https://www.cybermodeler.com/resource6.shtml Look at the bottom box in his right column for Modern USN colors. He has comparisons for a number of hobby paint lines. Good hunting!
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F4U-1A Corsair by DocRob - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/32
Canute replied to DocRob's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Your Corsair is a superb build. 👍 Thanks for sharing this blog.
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