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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. All the kits you named are good kits. Badger would be a little easier, of course, having only two masts. The difference in price between Pegasus and Fly is that the former kit includes a number of extra details that are not included in the latter (Fly came off the production line first). Those extra bits can be purchased as a separate upgrade kit for Fly. Otherwise the two kits are virtually the same. Cheers!
  2. So far, all the Snake builds on the forum look like really nice models. This one appears to continue that record. Cheers!
  3. Some very interesting craft available there.
  4. Ditto the comments on using a light hand. At scale viewing distances, seams are nearly invisible.
  5. The term is furled -- it's a good way to display sails. If the boat's owner is only temporarily tied up, the jib might just be lowered to the deck. If you go for furled sails, you'll only need sails about 2/3 or so of the full size; full-sized sails on models don't roll up as compactly as the real thing.
  6. Bob, Great start! This was also my very first model; at the time, I was unaware of the resources out there for detailing the kit. Nevertheless, it built up nicely mostly straight out of the box. I love the addition of the cockpit ribs. Looks like you will do a bang-up job in the end. Cheers!
  7. As Mark points out, all the posts linked to above fall under fair use law, at least here in the U.S. The U.S. Copyright Office gives the following criteria for judging fair use: The purpose and character of the use, including whether such use is of commercial nature or is for nonprofit educational purposes The nature of the copyrighted work The amount and substantiality of the portion used in relation to the copyrighted work as a whole The effect of the use upon the potential market for, or value of, the copyrighted work. All the pictures linked to above are clearly posted for review purposes and not for commercial use, consist of only a small part of the copyrighted content (in the case of the JoTiKa pictures), and clearly do not detract from the commercial value of the material in question -- in fact, such use actually provides a valuable service to the manufacturers whose images are used. I agree with Chuck -- our staff is pretty good at catching copyright infringement, and the chance of true infringement happening here, as such infringement is defined by law, is remote.
  8. The last bit I worked on was the ship's boat, which also came with the upgrade kit. The boat includes a cast metal hull and tiller, strip wood for building up the thwarts, and PE oars, boat hooks, and grapple. Not wanting to have to attempt a scratch-built boat at this point in my modeling career, I crossed my fingers and hoped the metal boat would do the job. I think it turned out pretty decent. And that is where my build left off. When I get back to it, I will soon be about the rigging. I have Volume 4 of the Swan-class series to help in that endeavor. Cheers!
  9. So, here is what the hull looks like as of July, 2012. Expect more updates on the hull on ... gosh, I don't know. Sometime this year. Maybe.
  10. More recently ('recently' means last summer ), I decided to somewhat imitate the elaborate decorations seen on the stern counter in the Williams & Marshall painting. First, I located some heraldic dolphins on the Internet, scaled them to the appropriate size, and then printed, painted, cut out, and edge-colored them. It took me a couple of tries to find the dolphins and color schemes that I thought looked the best. Here is the final result, with the dolphins swimming in some dappled foam. Of course, since then I've learned that the artwork on Fly was completely different. Oh, well. Please note, that is what eighteenth-century maritime artists thought dolphins looked like - not what I think they look like.
  11. This shot shows a number of things. First, the careful observer will notice the absence of cast metal fashion pieces. I simply could not get the kit castings to fit the hull properly, so I omitted them - on the Captain's orders. Second, I had to rebate the back sides of the quarterbadges, because they overlap the wales. Third, you can see where it was necessary to paint the lower railing posts to match the colors on the hull - black, yellow, red. Same went for the forecastle posts, except they needed black-yellow-red-yellow again. This was necessary to match the Williams & Marshall painting. Fourth, you can see where I replaced the 1x1 mm hull trim from the kit with Bluejacket double-beaded molding -- much nicer.
  12. This is the aforementioned forward screen bulkhead, along with a view of the two ladders that had to be built from scratch because the kit didn't include enough ladder material. I also added some detail to the gallows, using a file and some scrap card and wood to add beveling, decorative panels, and cheek blocks.
  13. It took quite a bit of tweaking to get all the quarterdeck rails in place. For one thing, the dimensions given for the stanchions along the break of the quarter deck (the square posts) were wrong; I believe they were given as 2 mm too tall, but my memory is fuzzy on that one. The stanchions at the entryways were off-the-shelf turnings and were both too tall and too large in diameter, so those had to be cut down. The entryway railings also had to be cut and trimmed to correct the angle of the elbow where those railings join the quarterdeck railing. But in the end, it all worked out. By the way, the lengths for all the breeching ropes and tackles were taken from a table in the Ship Modeler's Shop Notes published by the NRG.
  14. Another couple of tweaks to the kit. The cleats in the kit are far to large, so I cobbled together some smaller replacements. The kit's binnacle is also very, very basic, so out that went, too. I built a replacement based on some drawings and pics submitted by MSW members. The binnacle lantern is made from a sacrificed CA glue Z-tip, the compass roses are some scaled-down images from the Internet, and the chimney is some part from the scrap bin. The chimney should be black, but I haven't had much success blackening turned brass parts, so I left it shiny. Don't tell anyone.
  15. This lovely photo shows what happens when you think you've done an adequate job of planking, only to have the flash show up every ugly gap in the planking. Next time...must do a better job next time. Anyways, the stern carvings are a decent casting. After painting with the basic ochre color, I brought out some detail with some washes. Of course, the flash then proceeded to wash out all the wash detail. The curtains are an idea I copied from another build long ago. The period after 'FLY' is period-appropriate (no pun) and is not included in the PE brass set. It's just daubed on with a brush.
  16. I also decided to purchase the available Fly upgrade kit, which basically consists of the extra stuff that was included in the Pegasus kit, but not part of the original Fly kit. It is well worth the money, in my view. Among the options in upgrade kit are wooden carriages to replace the kit's cast metal carriages. The metal carriages are virtually impossible to drill, something that needs to be done if one wishes to properly rig the guns. The upgrade kit also includes PE brass insignia and locks for the guns. The kit guns are not entirely true to English guns of the period and already have a cast insignia on them; I made do with turning the barrels over and adding the upgrade insignia to the bottom (now the top) of each gun.
  17. First off, I am using the Williams & Marshall paintings of HMS Kingfisher to guide my painting of HMS Fly. The operative word is 'guide' (as opposed to 'template'). Early on I decided to add screen bulkheads to the model. These were scratch built from scrap plywood and card stock. The door knobs are brass nail heads. This is the aft bulkhead - it is less detailed than the forward bulkhead, which is far more easily seen on the model than the aft bulkhead. The forward bulkhead windows are properly glazed. As you can see in this picture, the proper placement of the aft bulkhead is not between the existing kit bulkhead extensions, but slightly aft of them.
  18. OK, I'm going to try and recreate parts of my build log for HMS Fly. I have been working on this model for so long that it has now gone through the deaths of two sites - once at the old Dry Dock Models, and once during the Great Crash of 2013. First a little back story. I bought this kit waaaaay back in 2006 - it was one of the very first production kits off the line. It should be done by now, and if it were anyone else but me, it probably would be. But that's not the way I build. My modeling urges come in intermittent fits and spurts - periods of great progress followed by usually long spells of inactivity, at least on the wood front. I also build card ships and 1/33 scale card aircraft, so sometimes when you see Fly come to a halt, it means I have some other project on the front burner. During the ensuing years, many fine models of Fly and her sister, Pegasus, have been completed here at MSW, so I will not go back to the very beginning and show all the basic framing and planking, etc. Instead, I will highlight some of the bashing I did to the basic kit, mostly to give other builders some hints about what can be done with it. I'm not actually working on Fly at the moment, so don't expect updates in the very near future. Mostly I'm doing this to create a placeholder of sorts. So, on we go!
  19. And before you know it, it's done! Actually, I didn't take many pictures during construction because I was in some haste to get this model finished in time for a convention. So, here it is. The railings are made from thread using the supplied jig and the technique mentioned in my log for Folke. Thanks for looking!
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