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One final picture. I wanted to find a case option for this little model that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg. Most small cases found at hobby and craft stores have dimensions meant for cars, trains, or sports memorabilia, i.e. usually too wide and/or too short for a given length. I finally found this case at a local Michael's crafts store. It is a football display case, hence the mirrored back, and it might be a tad too large, but for only $30 I thought it was quite suitable. There was a little plastic holder for a football inside the case, but happily it was only secured with some two-sided tape. I think I will keep an eye open for a small wooden base to go inside the case to elevate the model slightly, and I will also order a brass nameplate.

Ha! Good one -- I'll have to remember that for future use. I'm using RapidFuse, a medium-cure CA from DAP. For the lapstrake planks, I apply CA to the bulkheads and planks end, the brush on some PVA on the overlapping plank edge. This has worked well so far on the first four such planks.

So, I fixed my way around the slight fit problem. This shot shows the last of the flush-fit planking belts near the keel. Subsequent strakes will overlap slightly, lapstrake-style. Couple of things to take note of as shown in the next photo. In the instructions, the plank bits are marked with arrows pointing toward the bow. The kit parts did not have these marks. Second thing is to note that the clamp in the instructions photo only catches the tip of the plank being glued. Clamping the plank to the stem or stern piece along the entire edge will crimp the plank and create a depression in the hull. I learned this the hard way. 🙄 I achieved a better result by using medium-cure CA at the plank end and holding it in place while the glue set; it should really be only an edge-to-edge join.

I see the difference now between this and the wooden kit -- the wooden kit does not have a first layer of hull skinning, hence the differences in the parts numbers.

55. The parts must be numbered differently, or else the construction sequence and/or method is different.

Ah. Pin rail sounds logical, although its construction doesn't seem right to me. Someone with more knowledge of colonial schooners may be able to express a more informed opinion than I can offer.

I can't tell from that plan what exactly is supposed to be fabricated. Try checking out some of the finished Hannah builds in the gallery, such as this one, where the post does not have any horizontal component.

Any mild acid will etch brass, even good ol' vinegar. The brass needs to be thoroughly cleansed of any releasing agents; simply scrub with warm water, a toothbrush, and a mild detergent, then rinse well and allow to air dry. Once washed, avoid handling the actual parts. Brass parts can also be chemically blackened -- doing a site search with "blackening brass" will turn up many threads on that process. A third option is to spray-paint the parts -- fast-drying flat black primer works quite well for the purpose and doesn't require a color top coat.

Wow! Your dad's workshop would be the envy of many modelers here. Sorry to get back to you so late on your query about the GH. Bob Cleek made some very salient comments about the challenges inherent in building a large scale model, but when I read your original post I did not think that that was what you had in mind. Some people have built vary large sailing models of everything from sailing men-of-war to modern battleships whose emphasis is much more on sailing than on being faithful to the original in every respect. These models are more like impressions of the real thing, and that is what I believe you have in mind. GH should be within your capabilities given your motivation and determination, especially if your dad is helping you, but you will find that it is not necessarily a simple project and may take more time to complete than you anticipate -- be patient and enjoy the process, and you may eventually find that you and your dad enjoy building little models as well as large ones. The main reason why I suggested that you try your hand at something like GH is first of all to get your feet wet at working in wood, second that you discover that there is a multitude of skills that must be acquired to build something like a scale wooden model, and third that you observe how a galleon built from a kit is not a real galleon in terms of its construction but rather a compilation of compromises in materials and construction methods based on the needs and desires of a 21st-century modeler rather than those of a 17th-century sailor. As I believe I said in my original post, some of those kit methods may work when scaled up to a larger sailing model, but your larger model will of course have to take in to account additional considerations based on the fact that it will be much larger and need to actually sail. As I said, we have members here who are knowledgeable on such things, but I'm not one of them. To see a large-scale sailing model being built by one of our members, check out this build log for a 1/36 scale brig.

Mine are parts 55 L & P. The curvature of the bottom of each piece doesn't exactly match those of the previously laid strakes, creating a sliver of a gap, and the stern ends creep up a bit, hitting the stern post about a half-millimeter past the tick mark. Doesn't sound like much, but so far the kit has fit together essentially flawlessly, so this is a bit of a hiccup. I'm waiting until I'm rested and in the proper "frame of mind" before tackling this.

I haven't posted for a couple of days because progress on the planking has been slow. I also hit a little bit of a snag with the next set of planks to be installed, these being the first that don't initially fit precisely. Whether that is a design issue or the result of some error creep I haven't yet determined, but I'll need to proceed carefully.

I think when he said "slow-cure glue" that he meant slow-cure CA (cyanoacrylate, commonly known as "super glue"). CA normally comes in either thin, medium, or thick formulations which cure at different rates, from fast (couple of seconds) for the thin stuff to slow (several minutes) for the thick. Medium-cure is the most general-use formulation and will set in ~30-60 seconds depending on how much you use, which means that parts can be held together with your fingers until it sets. One downside with CA is that any excess slopped beyond a joint will dry into an unsightly opaque white crust and prevent any stains from penetrating the contaminated surface. Removing the excess can be extremely difficult in confined spaces such as the interior of your tiny yawl, which means that careful and precise initial application is a must.

This YouTuber has a couple of interesting videos of himself rowing the Annapolis wherry. It is indeed a very nice looking boat, and apparently a good rowing boat as well. vid 1 vid 2 I feel a little sorry for the kayakers in the second video -- pluggin' away while this guy seems to just glide effortlessly on by.

Yes, it's all wood, but some of it, e.g. the planking, is so thin that it can be manipulated and treated in much the same manner as card. For instance, the photo instructions suggest using a plank bender for pre-shaping the planks, but I found that moistening the back of the part and using my fingers -- much as for card -- produces the desired effect. The planking is not pre-darkened, but the instructions do suggest that it gets stained/varnished a little later in the process. The fit of the planking has been spot-on so far.

Congratulations!

Welcome aboard! The longboat kit has proven to be a very popular among beginners, and we have plenty of finished build logs for you to use for guidance. Sorry, no kits of Beaver, though, and she does not closely resemble any kits that I'm familiar with. Cheers!

Thanks for including links in both logs!

The bane of man's existence.

My paternal 3x-great-grandfather had a front-row view of Grant's maneuvers -- from inside the Vicksburg garrison (Co. G, 39th Georgia Infantry).

Another treat for the eyes -- well done!

I have a soft spot for the Flowers ever since building the 1/100 scale Agassiz in card from Modelik, though sadly without the striking Western Approaches camouflage.

Ready for planking.

And that is very typical of Model Shipways designs. You have acquired a useful skill!

Welcome aboard! Yes, modeling is a bit of an addiction, but with some professional therapy, most modelers can manage their habit. Ha -- just kidding! Once you are hooked, it's hopeless. 😉

I agree! I bet there's a lot of orphaned models out there hoping that Mike will stumble upon them. 😉