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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. Welcome aboard, Jack, and good progress on your model. I have tagged your log as a "first build." This we do primarily as a service to other first-time builders to make it easier for them to find out what models other newcomers to the hobby are building. Cheers!
  2. Nasty chest pains can be symptomatic of an inflamed gall bladder. I know, cuz I just had mine removed in July for that very reason.
  3. Step 22 (done -- sort of) The bow is looking busier and busier with the forward gun tub completed and many white spots "killed" by the addition of bollards and fairleads. I say "done -- sort of" because I left off a few details that I think should be left until later, namely the mounting of the anchors and jackstaff. Step 23 will encompass the addition of many more details.
  4. The famous test pilot -- nice!
  5. Step 22 (cont'd) Over the last few days, I have been replacing some of the already-installed paper parts with their 3D-printed counterparts. It hasn't been a cakewalk -- some of the parts are incredibly tiny. On two separate occasions, I thought I'd even lost a part, only to discover that it was stuck to the oil on a hand or finger, and too delicate to even notice! I also went back and painted over some of the red parts (valve handles, hoses, etc.) that folks in the know said should be gray. Once that was done, it was time to move on to new construction. Next up was the hedgehog mortar. Only the mortar bombs and base are resin, the rest is card. According to what I could find online, the bombs (technically missiles, according to the USN) were either gray or olive drab; I went for olive drab. With that installed, work can now commence on the forward gun tub.
  6. Henke, I hope your sessions will do you good and that you may soon rediscover your modeling mojo. Your model is lovely!
  7. Dia duit, Brian! I look forward to seeing your work.
  8. The key to buying direct from Poland is to find where the cutoff is for minimum shipping. I find that I can usually squeeze in 2-3 kits and their laser-cut frames before the shipping goes up to the next tier. You have to really WANT those 2-3 kits in order to justify the cost! 😬 Among Polish publishers, WAK generally has the lowest shipping costs. EDIT: Here's a screen capture of my WAK shopping cart (wish list only -- ain't pulling the trigger!). The cart contains three kits, four sets of laser-cut frames, and a canopy. Note the shipping.
  9. So, are lionfish good eating? I know they are considered invasive in the Western Atlantic/Caribbean.
  10. I think the dashed line is just a border to separate the parts from the diagrams.
  11. You can always test a piece. It's also possible to laminate thicker card from regular card stock using spray adhesive. I find that card laminated in this manner is easier to cut than chipboard. Chipboard dulls #11 blades like nobody's business.
  12. Yes. This is the gentleman who designed Answer's Fiat CR.42 kit that I built about twelve years ago.
  13. I learned recently that Lech Kołodziejski has set up shop again under the CardPlane name. You can view his store here. Lech has no fewer than four free models available at his site (available as downloads upon request), including the PWS-10 in Spanish Nationalist markings. His PWS-50 and Bartel BM-6a are relatively simple models and well-suited for beginners. Check them out!
  14. Thought you all might enjoy this little exchange that took place in a Facebook group after I shared some pictures there. Every group of modelers has "that guy" who is nit-picky to the nth degree: The best way to respond to such a character is to beat him to the punch. Here's my reply to him: In case anyone wonders, Mr. Karczewski's comments were the only negative ones posted, and no, I'm not bothered by them -- mainly just amused. 😉
  15. http://www.answer.pl/en/laser-cut-components-for-aircraft/1955-nakajima-type-ko-3-laser-cut-frames.html?search_query=ko-3&results=255 Most publishers use some variation of the following code for laminating parts: ** = 1.0 mm card * = 0.5 mm card + = plain card stock (i.e. the part gets doubled) You can verify the thickness of your laminated parts by using calipers and comparing that measurement to the width of any slots that the parts must fit into.
  16. Technically, the word "FINISHED" (all caps) should be added to the build log title right after the subject name and builder's username, set off by <space>hyphen<space>. Titles can only be edited from post #1 in the build log. Here's an example: HMS Pinafore 1878 by Gilbert O'Sullivan - FINISHED - Opera Comique Models - 1/571 scale The word "Finished" (capitalized) should also be added as a tag. You can do this yourself if you feel up to the challenge, or have me do it for you. Cheers!
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