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Fantastic work, Jan!

You really took this kit model up a notch (or two or three) -- really a superb finished product!

I should clarify -- I only drill pilot holes through first layer planking, i.e. through plank and into bulkhead, then pin as Ross describes. I've always used a combination of heat and CA to apply the second layer veneer -- no pins.

Here's another vote for ditching the brass nails. Use clamps, or if you need to temporarily pin something, use cheap push pins after drilling an appropriately sized pilot hole. The pins can be tapped in with a tack hammer.

Upon further scrutiny of Mr. Okumoto's videos, I found a scene where he does appear to have removed some interior wood before mating the frames and keel together. And here as well . . .

That's got to be among the lowest numbers of bulkheads per unit of hull length that I've ever seen in a kit. You were wise to add filler blocks!

Not to airplane nerds! 😅 I have the 1:33 scale card model of the Defiant from Orlik. Sadly, I don't have a preformed canopy for it, and the turret construction looks awfully intimidating.

You got the first layer on -- that's a good start!

Nice work, Al!

Congratulations on finishing your beautiful model!

Welcome aboard!

Hello, Stan! You can find all of the info we have at this site by clicking here. This includes a build log of the same kit in progress, along with images of the prototype model built by Kolderstok's owner, Hans. But before clicking the link, why not tell us a little something about yourself? Also,be sure to start a build log for your project -- that's the best way to get advice on the fly. Cheers!

Welcome, Scotty, and do please start a build log! Your hull looks great. As for your boom jaws, I wouldn't bother with the brass strip. Jaws were normally built from wood. Have a look around the gallery or do an internet search for boom jaws and you should be able to find some examples.

The small size of the model and its unusual manner of construction will make such removal difficult, if not impossible. That's part of the dilemma. Mind you, this is interior fairing I'm wondering about. One of the reasons I asked whether just leaving it as-is would be a viable option is that there isn't an 'interior' to this model -- other than the interior sides of the frames, there isn't much of anything else. Like I said, it's stylized, so I'm inclined to believe that leaving the insides un-faired would be a forgivable sin.

Faugh!! Still trying to figure out all the quirks of Google Photos. I'll update.

I haven't got back to working on Hannah yet, but I thought I'd post some pics of what I'm trying to wrap my brain around regarding the construction of the frames. As I said earlier, the available YouTube videos do not give any hints on what to do here, and neither do the instructions. So, this is frame #5. As you can see, there is not a whole lot of overlap between the forward futtocks and aft futtocks. Frame seen from forward: Frame seen from aft: Frame seen from above: The question again is one of how much interior wood to remove, if any. It's possible that I may have to remove the deck beams to do this properly -- again, there was no advice about this in the instructions (BTW, only a couple of frames have deck beams glued to both sides). I suppose one option (and the easiest) would be to just not remove any interior wood; after all, this is a stylized POF model. Thanks for any and all suggestions on what to do at this point. Having never built a POF model before, I have zero experience with this type of construction and precious few print resources to guide me. Cheers! P.S. Looking down the road, there is also precious little guidance in the instructions and videos on how to keep the keel and frames aligned when it comes time to glue them together. I suspect I may need to make a cheap building board for that sequence, but that's a ways off yet.

Welcome, Sam! I grew up near Eureka, another port with a significant crabbing fleet. Here in South Carolina, we obviously aren't getting any fresh-caught Dungeness. 😥

Check with Model Expo. They are the current manufacturers of the Midwest line.

That's a treat to see the real thing in person! P.S. When copying and pasting text, look for the 'paste as plain text' option -- that eliminates the tan shading.

Welcome aboard!

First suggestion: Make the title of your post something other than "oops" -- you'll be far more likely to get an answer to your question. I fixed this one for you -- no charge! 😉

You should be able to scratch-build the missing hatch elements out of sheet styrene without too much difficulty. The winch might be a little more difficult. 😬

Hi, gang! I just happened to be looking at the tags attached in a build log here. The log features a Model Shipways kit, and as you probably know, there are hundreds of Model Shipways kits featured in build logs at MSW. But . . . This particular log featured a tag that said Model Shipway, not Model Shipways. See the difference? The correct spelling is Shipways (plural). You might think that this doesn't make much of a difference, but it does. A tag search only turns up hits that exactly match the spelling in the tag that is clicked. If a curious member clicked on the "Model Shipway" tag today, the search would yield only seven results. On the other hand, clicking a "Model Shipways" tag yields 716 results -- over one hundred times as many! So please, when you add a tag, make sure it is spelled correctly. I fix the misspelled ones when I find them, but I don't always find them! Cheers!

JSC, Schreiber-Bogen, and HMV are the publishers that come immediately to my mind when thinking of ocean liner kits.

Excellent. I have marked this as 'sold', even though your kits weren't, you know, sold sold. 😉