ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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It's the Belem. -
HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
ccoyle replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
That's my recollection of what you told me some years ago. So would it be safe to say that these early Caldercraft kits didn't get the amount of research that you now put into Vanguard offerings? -
HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
ccoyle replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Since Snake is one of the initial batch of kits that @chris watton designed for Caldercraft over 20 years ago, perhaps he'd be willing to shed some light on the issues being discussed in this thread. -
Quite a few warships from this era are available as card models, including some from publishers in Ukraine. They are far from easy to build, though. As has been noted elsewhere, steel warships have large numbers of fittings, and in the usual scales of 1/200 or 1/250 for card models the plethora of tiny parts makes such kits suitable only for advanced builders. Valeriy's model is in a different league all together -- a one-off in meticulous detail by a master modeler.
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More strut bits . . . . . . and suddenly wham! Just like that -- shoes! I can smell the finish line!
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You don't. Glue the strip, then simulate the bolt head. A small drop of glue can do the latter bit convincingly, but there are also after-market bolt heads available on the market, depending on your scale.
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- Statenjacht
- Kolderstok
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Good morning from the banks of the Ohio River
ccoyle replied to Mike James's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard, Mike! Ironically, that kit (which was also my first POB build and is here in the gallery) started life as a solid-hull kit, was then modified to a POB kit, and then later released again as a solid-hull offering. I recall that there were some issues with the POB kit's instructions that caused a bit of consternation, the main one being that the kit was designed to be double-planked, but the instructions described a single plank construction. Oh, well. It got finished and now has a spot of honor in my man cave. Believe it or not, we also have a finished build log for a CLC Sassafras 12 canoe here on our forum. I know the guy who built it -- a bit ham-handed with the epoxy, but his finished canoe didn't sink and take him down with it, and that's the main thing. Enjoy your stay! -
Andrew, the trick is to glue the rod perfectly perpendicular to the direction of the roll at precisely the edge of the rolled part, then let the glue set completely. Afterwards, the paper can be rolled quite tightly. Also, I do not apply glue to the entire length of the roll, only at intervals to keep the thing from unraveling and at the final edge. Also, I've had lots of practice! 😉
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Welcome, Mark! I have both of the kits you mentioned. The FF kit is a real stinker -- I took a lot of liberties with bashing it into a more typical West Coast schooner (you can see it in the gallery under 'Ghost'). Straight from the box that kit is a mess of terse, badly translated instructions and a plethora of ill-suited off-the-shelf fittings. The KC is a fine kit, but beyond the means of a beginner. Sadly, mine is still in the box after many years and is far down the queue of potential projects. The beginner's combo from Model Shipways has been very popular around here and should set you up well for your new indoor hobby. Cheers!
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Struts are next. First we have the basic struts -- each is a single paper piece wrapped around a length of 1 mm styrene rod. And then we begin adding bits. Like some other parts of this build, the struts suffer from the seemingly unnecessary duplication of parts. For example, some of the strut bits exist as printed parts AND as laser-cut parts on two different sheets, each having a different thickness. So, does one use part G15, the laser-cut G15, or the other laser-cut G15? Unlike HMV kit instructions, which indicate when laser-cut parts are an option, the GPM instructions don't provide that information, nor do they warn about the multitude of repeated parts. You can easily imagine the potential for confusion this causes.
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I don't see anything in your posts that is ban-worthy. Keep your chin up and model on!
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- Second Build
- Pinta
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Anchor Ring
ccoyle replied to Dave_E's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Scroll down to page 8 of this document for some info and an illustration. -
I got around to starting the landing gear. First, a photo of the gear doors. The left one is finished; the right one is still in its "frame." So, the main difficulty in building these stems from the fact that the doors are not flat -- each has a pronounced curve that goes around its strut. The way the kit tackles this is to start with a two-sided "frame" from which the central portion is removed. Then six curved panels are added, three interior and three exterior. Finally, the finished doors are cut loose from their frames. I'm satisfied with the results. Cheers!
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Russian T-62A Tank by CDW - Tamiya - 1/35 Scale FINISHED
ccoyle replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Just saw the Tank Museum link. I've watched many of their videos -- a great resource. -
Welcome aboard, Rich, from your neighbor to the north. All of the kits you mentioned are great projects and should set you up well for enjoying this great hobby. Cheers!
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Russian T-62A Tank by CDW - Tamiya - 1/35 Scale FINISHED
ccoyle replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
No problem. I was really making more of a snide comment on the unfortunate design flaw of the original. 😉 -
Russian T-62A Tank by CDW - Tamiya - 1/35 Scale FINISHED
ccoyle replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Does it come with uncompartmentalized ammo storage racks inside the turret? -
Looks great!
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And the bidding starts at only 500,000 GBP. No, thanks -- too rich for my wallet!
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USF Essex by mtbediz - FINISHED - 1:50
ccoyle replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
That is a very handsome model, Mustafa, and one to be proud of. Congratulations! -
Shave, shape -- makes no difference. Correcting that one word won't hide the fact that the instructions are practically worthless. Last night I distracted myself by doing a little painting of the resin wheels -- pictures later. How much later has not yet been determined!
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This is why you need to have a maritime gallery assess it, not a random model builder. The price range can vary considerably depending on the type of model, age, and condition. What you need to do is take a good set of photos and then Google search for "maritime art gallery"; one or more of them may be able to give you a preliminary assessment based on your photos, but to firm it up they would probably want to lay eyes on it. Tell them you have a ship shadow box diorama.
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