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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. Thanks for the kind words. Check Chapelle's American Small Sailing Craft. There are plans for a Texas scow sloop and a scow schooner, both of which were very prevalent along the Texas Gulf Coast. Those plans can be gotten from the Smithsonian. Russ
  2. Thomas: I agree. Great looking head rails. This is one of those details that will make or break the model's appearance. You did a wonderful job on them. Russ
  3. The metal work looks great. Your belaying pins look good as well. Very nice work. On the deadeye lanyards, I have had good results applying slightly diluted Elmer's white glue to the line and then drawing it into the deadeye hole. Hold for a bit and then move on with each hole. This will keep them tight looking, but without the CA. That said, if you can get it to look good using CA, then give it a try. I prefer the white glue in these situations because CA tends to result in brittle, stiff areas in the line. Russ
  4. Bob: Nice work on the deadeyes. That is a lot like the one I use, but yours is much nicer. Russ
  5. The paint and the bands look good. I have used masking tape like that on several models and it works fine so long as you are painting it. Yours looks very convincing. Nice work. Russ
  6. I would complete the bulwarks planking and get your caprails on. So far it looks good. Nice work. Russ
  7. Mark: Very nice workmanship indeed. Well done. Russ
  8. If you used the stain on basswood it may have been that the wood simply absorbed the stain differently at different points on its surface. This is something that happens with softer wood like basswood. It could be due to glue not being removed completely, but you can stain a piece of basswood with no glue at all and get a blotchy result. When staining basswood, I always use a pre stain conditioner to even out the wood surface so that it will absorb the stain evenly across the entire surface, thus giving a better result. Russ
  9. Gary: The 3/32" blocks are a good idea. That would be 4 1/2" in scale. This is one of those situations where a little smaller is better given the tight space and the need for an accurate scale effect. Russ
  10. Gary: It sounds like they sent you extra blocks. That is not really uncommon. Your math is correct. You need four blocks for each gun on the side tackles and then two blocks for each gun on the rear tackles. You can use singles all around or the mix of doubles and singles you describe. It could be done either way. If you are ordering replacement blocks, go with your numbers, but I would add a few extra of each type in case of unexplained losses. I would use nothing larger than 1/8" at 1/48 scale. Russ
  11. Definitely consider some sort of mechanical fastening. I would suggest a wooden fastening or a bamboo fastening, but the brass pin will work. Russ
  12. Chuck: Good call. I like that idea for such small diameters. I have used bamboo for very small stanchions and wheel spokes, drawing them down with a drawplate. Russ
  13. Sweep is the correct terminology. I have made model boat oars using both methods. I found it easier to make the paddle separately and notch the end of the handle to receive it. Others prefer to make them in one piece. You might experiment to see what works best fro you. Russ
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