Landrotten Highlander

Are you certain you used the right gears? 

When I compare all pictures it appears to me you have the Mercury gears working fine, but there is a discrepancy with the Venus gear - in the instructions the gear-pair on the Venus stage appear to be of similar size, while yours appear to be very different.

Before the lockdown I worked with a group of people on the Hachette Victory, and in that project one had to be very careful, as very often the wood for two or 3 teps further would be delivered with one issue.  For instance, you were provided with kit parts in issue G, but when carfully looking at the instructions you need part of the wood provided with G, but also some provided with D and some wood would be left for a step discussed in issue P.

Did I confuse you?  So were we at first...

Some mancave you made for yourself there.

Giving me ideas for my own...

I am getting vertigo just looking at the first picture...

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.

I think height adjustment is the vertical screw though the ebony piece. The horizontal screw holds it firmly in position.

I now see the the answer has already been provided.  Should read all replies before acting - ah wel, learn from ones mistakes is part of life

11 minutes ago, TBlack said:

Alex,

Boy, have I got questions!

1. How do you get the lower jaw of those clothes pins to hold?

2. How do you get such uniformity of the timberheads?

3. How do you do that little curl at the end of the planksheer?

Help us poor buggers do better.

Tom

The clothes pegs question I can answer: they are sticking through the gun ports with the lower jaw.

8 minutes ago, Gaetan Bordeleau said:

The first tool I would buy in fact would not be a workbench. , I prefer an electric adjustable height table. You can find at different prices and relatively low prices.

 

I was about to suggest the same.

Alternatively, you can do as I did - custom make your own bench.  As I too have a disability (walking with crutches for short distances, wheelchair for longer distances + the risk of falling over without warning) I had to think long and hard about how to improve my modelling experience.  I decided that having a bar stool set to such a height that I can easily slide on/off it will help me as I then do not need any support to get on/off the chair.  I then calculated the ideal working height for my table top based on me sitting in that chair and having all relative supports needed to keep my arms relaxed when working on tiny details - my worktop height is 95.7 mm from the floor, making sure I can sit nice and upright when workig.  It may look crude (I used CLS 90mm x 35mm / 3.5" x 1.5") but I am now much more comfortable when modelling.

Was just reading in a Belgian newspaper about a Dutch team of archeologists excavating canons and othe equipment from the HMS Apollo, which sank on 06JAN1779.

The ship ran aground on the shallow island of 'Razende Bol' off Texel.  In an effort to save the ship the captain decided to dumb the conons overboard - but it was to no avail and the ship sank below the surface.  Now erosion has revealed the remains of the ship.

The team is in negotiation with the British Navy to allow to exhibit the findings in the Texel museum 'Kaap Skil', Oudeschild, The Netherlands this summer - provided the COVID situation is under control.

Sorry to hear about your husband.  You have made a wonderful model, and I am sure he will appreciate the thought of having the entire ship to you and him.

1 hour ago, catopower said:

How's that for a not-really-an-answer answer? 😀

you should go into politics .....

53 minutes ago, MESSIS said:

Question to whom it may concern:

Is it a white painted hull as the original ship better, or is it nicer to let it as it is, pure wood?

I'd say it is personal taste.  Do you prefer close to historical accuracy, or do you prefer artistic licence that pleases your eyes.

At the end of the day, you are both Captain of your ship, as well as the one who has to look at it (last bit is also the advice I give to my Bonsai students when they have to make a difficult choice and I get asked 'which is better')

You can make your green lighter by painting over it with a very thin wash of white with a dab of yellow.  A wash is basically a very diluted pint (i.e. 20 parts white spirit with 1 part paint).

Is that a big model, or are you a smallish person?

Blooming nice work nonetheless.

It was meant as a heads-up not a criticism.  I am in awe with your work, and the research you put into it.  I just thought that it would be a shame to miss this accidentely (of course, if you choose to live with it that is entirely up to you, as it is your model).

The rower behind the one with the blue shirt (middle post of hte castle) might have some issues getting to move forward with his hands, as his oar will hit the post right in front of him.  Too late to make a minor adjustment there?  PErhaps have the post end on the bench rathe than behind it?

7 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

James, being a good moderator will start a new Build Log in the corresponding https://modelshipworld.com/forum/130-build-logs-for-ship-model-kits-by-era-launch-date/ section.

Might be helpful to have a link in this blog, since as a follower I am getting notifications for this thread, which helps me manage my time a bit better.

And a HATE missing out on the beginning of hte build blog.....

what they all said.

Keep safe, hope you get your eyesight back soon - we will wait....

Defenitely in my MUST HAVE list, this one (and that is unusual for me as I prefer to work from scratch)

This is frequently mentioned in the LSP builds (Large Scale Planes) and used to replace eroneous or poor quality rivets on plastic air frames.  They can be painted to look like wood.

http://mikegrantdecals.com/shop/product/rivet-decals/

I cannot bring myself to like the last post.  I love the pictures, but got a bit of a shock to read about your health issues.

Wishing you as much relief as you can get.

Try these.  Have not bought from them yet, but the feedback I managed to find seeme generally positive.

https://www.arkowood-lossburg.de/shop/brettchen/buchsbaum-brettchen-50-x-500-mm/

I have no experience with this particular machine ,but as an Engineer my experience with tools is that the cheap 'all-round' tools are usually they are not good at any of the tasks they are advertised to do.  However, for the hobbyist level of working this machine might do the trick, as long as you let the saw do the work: never push your wood through the thing, just guide it to where it needs to cut.

pulling up a chair, as it is very possible I have missed al the fun in the past.

14 minutes ago, Hubac's Historian said:

My guess is that they are lifts for the ship’s boats.  That would be where I start looking anyway.

I was thinking the same.  Yu want them out of the way when not in use, but easy to reach.

I am guessing, but it appears to me that the pipes go from the galleries and down into the ship at the point of joining the pipes.  The pipe on the left of the picture appears to have a slope of approx 3-5 degrees, which is the slope recommended for draining.  So I would gues that these pipes are used to capture rain water, thus increasing the water availability for say personal grooming during long voyages?