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KeithAug

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Everything posted by KeithAug

  1. Yes my memory was they were sometimes difficult to start but once started they would run trouble free all day long. Unlike the early Japanese outwards that always started but then died at the most inopportune and sometimes dangerous moments. Nice model Andy its takes me back.
  2. Pat Pat, - The best plan would be to post a dimensioned sketch of the part you are trying to make. Then you can challenge us all to have a go at making it, with a prize for the winner. Given the interest you have generated I bet you would get a flood of submissions. What do you think 😃!
  3. You could put a seat in it - just like they do at Peasholm Park in Scarborough. I think that was where I was introduced to ship modelling over 60 years ago. I bet someone knows what I am on about!!!!
  4. Mark - A nice little craft, it will be interesting to see it develop. How do you keep the wood dust out of your keyboard?
  5. Thank you to everyone for visiting, liking and leaving comments. I have done a git more work on the Rib. I used a piece of card to get the shape of the rigid hull and then transferred the shape to 1/32" ply. The ply was then bent to shape around the transom and mid frame. Then multiple clamps were used to hold the base in place while the PVA glue dried. This was repeated for the 2nd half of the base and a keel was inserted for a bit of extra strength. I then did a bit of light sanding to blend in the edges. Mist Ribs have ridges on their base and these are generally of triangular section. I cut triangular strips and glued these in place. Better quality Ribs have false floors (to get the toffs to the restaurant in their evening shoes - in my sailing days we always frequented resteraunts in our wellies). The floor pieces were cut in 2 halves so they could be inserted below the overhang of the inflatable walls. The toffs also wanted a locker to store the ready use booze for their return journey. The Rib is protected by a rubber bump strip made from a half round piece of scrap wood. The stern also got the mounting plate for the outboard, one of those flashy Yamaha types. Not a Seagull "like what I grew up with". Summer is really getting in the way of progress.
  6. That is an interesting concept. How do you prevent the drill wandering off due to the uneven loading on the drill. Do you need to centre spot a hole with a larger cone than the diameter of the drill?
  7. Eberhard. Amazing that you can achieve any reasonable representation of clinker planks at this scale. I did notice that the exposed edges of some of the planks have slight steps. Is this down to the resolution of the laser cutter?
  8. Pat, there seem to be very few available on the market, which one did you buy?
  9. It certainly is an unusual design of vessel. It will be interesting to see how well it performs, particularly in any degree os swell.
  10. Keith. Unfortunately of late my good looks have deserted me. In fact now that I think of it they departed me some years ago. I think I’ll lock myself away and concentrate on modelling ( of the boat kind ).
  11. Thank you Eberhard, Druxey, Keith, Pat, John, Rick, Richard, Allan and Gary for you comments. Before I put the final touches to the launch I though I would have a go at the RIB. I dithered over making this because It feels out of character with the original Germania. However it is a feature of Germania Nova and in the end I decided it had to be installed. I had the sizes of the RIB from the small scale plans and so sizing wasn't a problem. I started with a basic sketch of the rib and support cradle. The ribs overall dimensions are 2.2" x 4.25" The inflatable sections are about .450" diameter and were turned from a medium hard dowel. The only tricky aspect to this stage of construction is sorting out and cutting the compound angles at the intersections. This was done on the table saw. Once cut the sections were glued together, the gluing process being assisted by the transom frame. The forward section cants upwards. A flat profile would have been easy, but it wasn't right. I haven't got any further so more next time. But as an aside I was finding the storing of all my previously made bits a pieces a challenge. However with age my wife consumption of face enhancements is keeping the cosmetics industry booming and her discarded glass pots do come in handy. This is proving to be a very expensive storage system - but the supply chain is very secure.
  12. Pat - ref PCB drills. I only use them on a drill stand. Freehand drilling is very difficult without imposing side loads and it is the side loads that inevitably lead to breakage. I drill most of my thin brass sheet with PCB drills and don't find the cutting angle causes grabbing. I do however feed the drill slowly. Here drilling by machine helps because the rack on the drill feed controls the drill at the point of break trough. Where ever possible I drill the brass with some form of backing board (usually a piece of hard wood). This also helps prevent grabbing. Of course these techniques / precautions to some extent depend on the geometry of the component and may therefore not always be applicable. The brass I use tends to be hard brass. I hate the machine characteristics of soft brass which has a much greater tendency to grab. You comment about the description of the solder as "silver solder" is quite interesting. Over here silver solder is specific to very hard solder - usually just as hard as the metal being soldered. As Eberhard explained this typically melts at circa 600 deg c and the joint formed is just as strong as the parent metal. Low temperature non-lead based solders melt at much lower temperatures and are generally soft in comparison to the material being soldered. Because they are soft they are easily cut with a craft knife ( I am wondering if this is true of the solder you are using?). When soft solders are used to butt a thin sheet end to a plate they form a very weak joint and in my experience this inevitably fails under anything more than light pressure. By the way thank you for introducing me to resistance soldering. I hadn't come across it before but it looks quite interesting.
  13. Pat, makes it a lot more understandable now. Also PCB bits are very sharp and while being fragile are relatively cheap. Might be worth a try.
  14. Eberhard, I also had that thought but I also thought that at that temperature the brass would be starting to glow. My experience is that it is very difficult to silver solder very thin brass as the flame is apt to melt the brass. Perhaps Pat could help us with more detail on his soldering process and soldering material.
  15. Pat - I am probably being daft but couldn't you drill the holes before soldering?
  16. Phil Every time I look at this build I am struck by the quality and detail of the plans. Given the era of the vessel I think the plans are remarkable.
  17. The clinker planking is nicely done. I always think it is quite difficult to pull this off successfully. Good work.
  18. Pat An interesting bit of brass work. It just goes to show there are may ways to skin a cat. The PE looks quite crisp to me, did you do the etching or did you contract it out?
  19. Dear Keith I was just catching up but your devastating news has set me aback. I think your loss is something that few of us could contemplate and my heart goes out to you and your family. Any words that I can offer are probably of small comfort but at this time it is worth remembering that our departed loved ones do live on in our memories and hearts. Good be with you my friend. With greatest sympathy. Keith
  20. You have done quite a lot in two years. Some of us are quite a lot slower!!!! She is looking wonderful and like you I thought the illuminated bow shot was real cool.
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