amateur
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Posts
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Everything posted by amateur
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Next one (easy one, I would say) Jan
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Euphrates Jan
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ah, now I remember, it was a troopship build for sending troops to India. Have to find a name. Wait for a minute Jan
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As said before, I would vote for something like this one (Gouden Leeuw, as drawn by Van de Velde) in a 1:96 scale All kits tend to be "HMS-ships"....
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Mahogany is dark, rather course grained wood. Apple is usually much lighter, and less course grained. The broad ones in the middle are definitely mahogany. Kits providing 'spares' are not common, so my guess is that the number provided is exactly what is in your list. Sorting by length and size shoudl give you some clue.... Jan
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Question: in the years this sub was build, there was a change from rivettin gto welding. Parts of the keel structure of the ship was welded. I can imagine that the pressurehull was (at least partly) riveted (just to be sure), but how much of the hull and upperstructure was riveted? I ask the question, as in your last pic, there seems to be only flush seams in the upperstructure, and that does not match the usual rivetting pattern. Jan
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I guess you've seen these pics... http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=979&page=2 Jan
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Something smaller and Dutch ? Jan
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Can't find anything big enough..... All English broadside ironclads seem to be black. it's not French, japanese of Russian... To large to be Belgian Diutch or Danish. Chilean, spanish, or perhaps USS (although I did not succeed in findin g anything like it....) Jan
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Let's find all navies that had large white-coloured ships. America had some of those... e.g. USS Boston and Chicago (but those had two funnels...) Jan
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Not French.... Russian is my next guess.... Jan
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French, possibly? Jan
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Think you are right....
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I like your weathered paint-work. Any chance for us to see the recipe for it? Jan
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Post #23 states that he will stop this build. I'm pretty sure he was serious about that. He is active on a Dutch/Belgian forum, and over there he has some fame for starting builds that grow more and more ambitious as they go along. But many of them come to a point where the quality Arjans wants is not delivered by the kit he is using. And then there is some ominous post 'that this build will be stopped'. At the moment he is working on a next (Corel-kit-based) build: A Dutch VOC-ship, based on the Prins Willem. To be honest, I expect him to stop that build also, and turn to proper 'scratch build'.... Jan
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So that's why they stopped regular maintance of their houses. So the blizzard of '88 brought your tree down after all.... Jan
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yeah, you got the point Jan
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It can be done (I did it), and it results in the real-life-effect that the shrouds give a small 'opening' just above the deadeye. As soon as you wind the 'loose end' of the lanyard around the shroud, you loose the effect almost completely. I think no-one will ever see that I took the time and effort to place a vertical lashing.... Jan
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There is a guy doning a large scale paper model of the Scharnhorst. (Paul Salome) I think he just ued a sprayed primer to seal the whole thing off. Perhaps you could ask him... Jan
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I'm a bit struggling with the info you're looking for (probably a translation issue ) I think you can do it llike the original: spllice an eye in one end, attach the deadeye block in to the line (pace a seizing under it), feed the other end of the rigging line under the bowsprit, and take it upwards again thruogh the spliced eye, and fix it onto itself using a seizing. Or is that not what you want? See pic below, Dutch did it slightly different: the used two spliced eyes and a lashing in between. The line is going from the mast upwards, around the block (attached with a seizing), down round the other side of the mast, under the bowsprit, and upwards again, ending either in a spliced eye, fixed twith a lashing, or fed through the first eye, and seized to itself. Jan
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In case of paint: waterbased paints tend to raise the fibers. So, painting is also not without "danger"... However, I got a reasonable result using a diluted waterbased acrylic paint, giving it a light sanding after drying, and afterwards repeating the pint (sagain dluted). The first coat of paint tended to keep most fibers in place, the second coat of paint was needed to staint the uncoloured spots due to sanding down unwilling fibers. As you need more coats of paint, some testing is needed. Jan
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Looks wonderful! (btw I assume your 'no more cheating'-lines were mass-produced, almost in a cheating-like way) Jan
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But solving the trouble results in better models! So there is some, although indirect, advantage of your thinking.
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