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amateur

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  1. amateur
    Google punter and giethoorn This type of ship is a rather common type used well into the seventies for local transport. No sails no rowing. Just pushing a long stick punters are the last ships build shell-first: a fee planks, frames added afterwards, jan
  2. amateur
    The hull plates have a tight fit: 1mm would have been critical. Jan
  3. amateur
    I started, but due to orher tasks (garden, home work) she is still unfinished..... will be following with interest. I guess you know the tutorial by hart, it is excellent jan
  4. amateur
    Yamaha-site will be closing vrry soon. Download one if you need one! jan
  5. amateur
    Beatifull work! that yamaha, is that one of those things consistong of a trillion parts? jan
  6. amateur
    I was going to ask whether you would cut into the roede. The answer is obviously yes. Do all four vanes have the same template? As in real life they don't have: the binnenroedeen de buitenroede are different: in the centre, they lay on top of each orher, the tips have ro be in one plane, making the inner one straight, and the outer one curved inside. Jan
  7. amateur
    Looking good! Jan
  8. amateur
    To please @cog, here are some better quality pics (Canon 400D, Tamron-macro-lense, tripod: this is the best I can deliver :)) The first is the focsle, after some tydying up, and finishing off ropes. The problem is: as the deck shouldn't be there, the belying pins are much to low, so there is no way of forming neat rope coils: they should almost all be put down on the deck. The second one is an oldie: nothing changed here: Here is the line that was cut of in the block. Good enough for me And here the top: And here the work still to do: Main mast, and mizzen, both rigged, but not finished..... But tomorrow my summer holidays are over, and work kicks in..... And yes: all the fuzz you see is dust. After 15 years, she is getting a bit dusty Jan
  9. amateur
    I wasm't so much wondering as to whether the question would be asked, but more who would ask it. I got my answer Perhaps tomorrow, not now: battery of my camera is flat, and I don't like to start up my PC to transfer the pics. Jan
  10. amateur
    And my first problem showed up: Corel does not have proper belaying points for all ropes around the fore mast. in stead you have to glue the rope into a hole in the deck. So, when the rope does need retensioning, there is no way of doing that without destroying what is there..... I cut the rope from the hole, but was left with too little lenght to reattach it. I glued a new rope into the deck, and will try (wish me luck) to hide the fact that there are two ropes in the first block it will go through..... And forgive me the quality of the pic: done with an Ipad, with no flash. I promise better pics will follow (don't aks me when ) Jan
  11. amateur
    Now, where was I? PW is still on the table, but since we decided to sell our previous home, no work was done. So, it was like this, and still is, gathering dust on the table. I would like to do some work on him this week, but there are so many orher things to do: garden, house-things, work Jan
  12. amateur
    These type of ships are more often found in cardboard than in kit-edition. (titanic being the exception ) Jan
  13. amateur
    Hi Marcus, May I suggest starting at the lowest wale, and working up/down from there? The location of the wales does have quite an effect on the visual appearnce. Getting their position right after planking might be troublesome: getting it right before planking is easier: you cab draw on the hull until you are happy. getting the other planks in position is easier: they are thinner and easier to handle than that heavy wale.
  14. amateur
    Apparently, you are not too happy. Am I still allowed to say I like the result? Many of the issues you mention are not very prominent in the pictures, so all I see is a nice model of an unusual (at least, atMSW) ship. with respect to the masking tape: tamiya sells a masking tape that is rather flexible, so that is easier to stick to curved, and slightly uneven surfaces. When paint does bleed, I discoverd that scraping using a sharp knife most of the time works better that sandpaper: scraping does not damage the surface, sandpaper does. Jan
  15. amateur
    Too light is better than too heavy. please give us a video. She deserves to be in the water!
  16. amateur
    Hi Doris, did you change your goldpaint since the SoS? Jan
  17. amateur
    Hi Mike, theWitsen books isa good one, but is for a different audience. The seawatch book is for modelbuilders:drawings and description of shiptypes.The Witsenbook (I have the dutch version) is for those who want more background on dutch shipbuilding in the 17th Century. Witsen uses one type (pinas) to describe the principles. So actually, you can read the book as a kind of monograph on a pinas. The dutch version had drawings a a pinas, I don't know whether ornotthey come with the english version.I still didot order the book onmerchant ships, as taxes and transport costs make it arather pricy business..... Jan
  18. amateur
    I was a bit surprised to see that the stay is attached to the top, and not to the mast itself. I always thought taht the more modern shipsfollowed the old-time practice to use a collar around the masttop for the stays. Learned something new today Jan
  19. amateur
    Hi Greg, Quite often google translate is capable of transforming those Russion captions to something more or less understandable By the way: I very much like the camo on the ships hull. I was wondering whether you will be able to mask the camo on the upper structures, or that you have to spray/paint them just by hand. Jan
  20. amateur
    And for those wondering WHY schiedam has the highest (at least old, because the new turbine thingies are much higher) mills, that is because Schiedam is a city with lots of houses. Mills need steady wind, an no turbulence due to surrounding buildings (or even trees). So that leads to rather high (and completely stone-built) mills. Schiedam mills are not classic water or flour mills, but used for the production of Sjors' favorite drink Jan
  21. amateur
    Just a question: The slip can hold keel, stern and bulkheads into position. It can even be used to turn the model side-upwards. But it looks as if there is little margin when the stern has not the same thickness as the MDF-piece. (the clamps in step 6 and 16 look rather rigid to me) Is there any flexibility when your stern is thicker/thinner than the one of the example-model? Jan
  22. amateur
    For what it is worth: I agree with Gwen. Jan
  23. amateur
    Are you going to fully rig her, or will this be a 'hull-only' model? jan
  24. amateur
    I never ordered directly at seawatch, but as far as I heard, they are both in business and reliable. Some MSW-members publish quite some work through seawatch. I never heard them complain, nor their customers.... Jan
  25. amateur
    Leaning forward was a good thing to do. each and every time I think it cannot get better. Each and every time you prove the opposite. I have run out for superlatives...... jan

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