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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. amateur
    That's strange, the book is not readily available in the Netherlands (there is no Dutch edition). In stead, it is sold by seawatchbooks in the USA, and they still advertise on their website that is is sold WITH the plan-set. No idea what the bookstore in Amsterdam sold you.(and at what price...) Jan
  2. amateur
    What kind of rope do you have. Twisting is often a result of rope that has some stretch in it. The less 'elasticity' there is inthe rope, the less twisti g there is. Jan
  3. amateur
    Hi Piet, Yes , you sure are going to get some priegelwerk. I like it, but it is not a job that you can do fice minutes a day. You need some serious time. And that's where other life interferee.... But i'll get there, eventually.... Jan
  4. amateur
    Long time ago, I did sometimes post an updat ehere. Let's continue that tradition. I did some work on the Mizzen: The mizzen-yard has a halyard(?) using a tripple block. The parrel has to come around the strop of the lower block, to get the whole thing slightly closer to the mast. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b6oUhGBUNvA/VkNafExV2uI/AAAAAAAABys/gP0vdGbftWQ/s800-Ic42/IMG_1057.JPG[/img] The parrel is slightly too short, I have to put another bead on the rope. Next it has to go round the mast, the ropes through the deadeye, and a violin-block attached to it. (fun to do: the block can only be fitter after the parrel is installed (wish my eyes were better, and my fingers less thick:) ) The bowlines were a bit opf a problem. Andersson shows tham attached to the last aftmost shroud. (as most of the contemporaneous models do) However, the distance between the mizzen and the shrouds is relatievely large, so fitting them to the shrouds was visually not so pleasing. Therefore I followed Ketting, in attaching them to a block attached to the railing, just in front of the half-deck. Last puzzle: getting all ropes on a fair amount of tension, results in the mizzen going up and aft, while it should go (by sheer laws of gravity: down and foreward). (not too much, otherwise it touches the great capstan, and that should be left free) To be continued .....(sometime in the distant future :mrgreen:) (pics are a bit fuzzy, because macro and flash don't go together too well) Jan
  5. amateur
    Thanks. 15% is reasonable. Jan
  6. amateur
    Hi Ed, How did uou do ,the treenailing of the deck? Is that real treenailing,or is it some kind of clever faking? Jan
  7. amateur
    Sometimes it is available on marelibri.com Jan
  8. amateur
    Hope you mind your fingers and eyes using this setup.... Jan
  9. amateur
    Don't know whether someone still reads this (or knows the answer).... Does the timber list refer to a 1:48 version of the cross section? (and has anyone any idea on the extent of overestimation?) Jan
  10. amateur
    Try Billings "HMS Warrior". You need a new home after that (57.9") Jan
  11. amateur
    Daniel will need another rebuild Jan
  12. amateur
    It's not that strange. These ships were build by the thousands, so none of them had any fame orname for itself. Also, the builders worked 'by the eye'. So no drawings exist. The model crackers showed is based ona reconstruction by Hoving (indeed, the same), and is based on a few rukes of thumb, and a written description of the ship stating lenght, width, and number of decks. Next to taht, as theseships were just objects tobe used, and easily discarded when their economic life was over, thereare virtually no contemporary models. Take all thattogether, and you seewhy kitmakers do not go into dutchshipbuilding: no examples to copy, no famous ships. The only two execptions are the twoships i mentioned abobe: both have an example that could be copied. A third model that was loosely based on a dutch ship (albeit with grave errors) was the Friesland by Mamoli. Firm doesn't exist, but that modelwas based on an model that was destroyed inthe war: a dutch warship of around 1670. The history that Mamoli gives of the ship is utter nonsense, but apparently ships without history (especially the latrger ones) do not sell. While writing, I realize that there is a third alternative. One of the forummembers (Hans) has made a kit of Batavia. Slightly tooearly for you, but a nice alternative to Prins Willem. (Can't comment on the quality of the kit, as I have never seen it real life) Jan
  13. amateur
    Crackers was quicker Btw Derflinger is a very, very bad reconstruction of a Dutch fluit.... Al,ost correct with respect tothesite: http://nautarch.tamu.edu The exact link that takes you to the drawings: http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/AbHoving.htm Jan
  14. amateur
    Hi apell, That's a rather difficult questionto answer. As long as you don't know what type of ship the "vergulde otter" was, there is quite a range of ships that would fit the bill. Even a fluit would do. On one of his journeys to Australia, ABel Tasman had both a jacht, and a fluit to his disposal. Nothing wrong with the seaworthiness of a fluit. In some other respect, it is an easy question to answer: no kits available for Dutch ships from that period. corel's Prins Willem is closest. A rather heavy armed merchant. As she is a rather large ship, i guess otter would have been smaller. , and less heavily armed that the Corel-version of the PW (which overgunned by any standard btw).prins Willem is a 1651-ship, he kit is based on a contemporary model. Other kits are ships of an earlier period (eg half moon, also by Corel, and a very nice version by Billing boats). Theseare ships of around 1600, so way too early for you. That's the kits available. For the drawings, the ones with the book describedabove are top.youcould also check the internet. There are some nice drawings available on a university site, for which I always forget the name. Something with naut arch and tamu(?), I'llcheck. Those give the reconstruction of a ship as described by a famous Dutch writer of the period (nicolaes Witsen.) Again, some more info onthe ship would be usefull.... Jan
  15. amateur
    Have you ever seen the size of the flags hoisted on that pole? You sure needed a long an dheavy pole Jan
  16. amateur
    But still enough space to get all your models under the roof? Jan
  17. amateur
    Another city? Away from the Maas?? How are you going to survive??? Although, I see an advantage: Aggies maidentrip will be on the Rottemeren, just around the corner Jan
  18. amateur
    Yes, I do. But he used staples, as he had to remove them after the glue dried. (As far as i remember) Jan
  19. amateur
    Never seen nor heard anyone using these things. Most people want their planking without nails, And to my experience, the nailing isn't by far the most timeconsuming part of planking, so.... Jan
  20. amateur
    Stropping a building block ....? Jan
  21. amateur
    Try soaking the wood in ammonia. Jan
  22. amateur
    better than a shoddy Billings-kit! Jan
  23. amateur
    Hi Piet, With respect to the colour, I agree with Hans. You may check Peter's (Olympic1911) log on the Hohenzollernmodell. Somewhere (canb't find the page) he shos his greyish/green paint for the upper hull. You might also consider redoing the red: check Hans's log of Batavia for a nice shade, or my pic of Batavia) With respect to the railing: did you think of (or even try) round banisters (like Padsmos/Blijdorp)? http://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085748 Jan
  24. amateur
    Frohlich also shows it in his book 'the art of modelling'. He makes one side remark (which you already know, of course): the method will not do for models with a tumblehome (i.e. don't have their widest point at the top of the frames, but on deck-, or waterlinelevel.) Jan
  25. amateur
    It's a shame how some people treat a nice model..... I can imagine your feeling. Good luck with the repairs. Will the model go to the same place afterwards, or are you going to look for a proper home for her? Jan

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