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amateur

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  1. amateur
    Or (but you can only do that when the backside is out of sight, or should be painted), use woodglue to stick a piece of paper to the backside, instead of the masking tape. One other that worked fo me (but I did - nicely aligned and square - windows in a tugboat) is to use a very thin drill to mark the endpoints of the cut, and place a second cut on the backside of the wood. And try using a small as possible knife. I like the swan morton no 11 blade. Designed a a surgical knife, sharp enough to separate your fingertips from where they belong, but also very, very thin at the tip. Jan
  2. amateur
    A small electric drill (proxxon/dremel/minicraft) will be very helpfull. Don't ask which one, because everyone is sure his is the best. A couple of good knives (I like the swann morton very much) Perhaps a soldering iron (or, as some will explain, a soldering torch is better) Can't help you beyond that, becuase I don't have more experience than that myself Jan
  3. amateur
    Looks great. Is there somewhere a shop that sells these clamps, or are they self-made? (these probably are, I should refrase: or have these to be self-made) Jan
  4. amateur
    May I give you a suggestion? The shrouds ( the lines form deadeye to masttop) are normally way thicker than the lanyards (the rope between the deadeyes). I guess it woudl contribute to the looks of your model if you used thicker rope for the shrouds. Jan
  5. amateur
    Steingraeber is a German firm. It used to issue a couple of own kits until the early seventies I think. They still exist, but only as a shop selling kits from other manifacturers (and they sell shipmodels, of rather questionable quality....) Jan
  6. amateur
    Did uou know this one? It is in German, but the drawings are not drawing of the frames (spant 116, letter d) suggest hinges on the upper side. http://dingler.culture.hu-berlin.de/article/pj315/ar315001 in the same issue of this journal are more articles on this ship (mainly engine stuff, check on the first link on the page: band 315, it brings you at the table of contents of the issue) Jan
  7. amateur
    With respect to the bunker doors: lookoing at the puc of the Dutch liner (ss rotterda, early twenties), you can see that the doorst hinged sideways, with no visible hinges on the outside. The hinge was inside, and on the outside there are one or two large nuts to secure th e door a(to the extreme left of the pic you can see a closed door, and left of the coalloadi g people you can see the inside of an open door. titanic had the same construcion (as ifound out in the internet), no idea wheter or not the German liners were of the same build. Jan
  8. amateur
    The same, but repeated ad infinitum Jan
  9. amateur
    Wow........ Jan
  10. amateur
    This should work. There is a german company that sells kits that are based on this principle. Although their kits are not without problems, the method as such does work. google for 'GK Modellbau" and 'Duke William" (don't buy: the model does not conform the historical drawings, but you'll see the method) Jan
  11. amateur
    Hi Piet, With respect to the hinges, should we read it as a question or as an announcement? In both cases we all know the outcome Jan
  12. amateur
    Ah well, the Spanish. You could see it the other way round: not much to get for the Spanish over here, so why invest in a military campaign. Just mudd and water Jan
  13. amateur
    Interesting view: Even more interesting question: if this was indeed a succesfull invasion and occupation, why didn't reach OUR historybooks? Dutch interpretation (as far as I understood) is more that William was used by the English protestant royalists to solve their, entirely English, problem. Jan
  14. amateur
    I was Just wondering, you're the expert Jan
  15. amateur
    Why are you casting in pewter? Has it advantages over resin? Jan
  16. amateur
    Aren't you at the point of "overdetailing" your plug? The ditance betrween those stripes is so small, i wonder whether you will get a nice mould/hull out of that without a lot of problems of not fully filled details after pouring your hull. Jan
  17. amateur
    The drawing is definitvely a Billings drawing. Also, the basic hulli comstruction is Billings, so Billings it is. Jan
  18. amateur
    If it's easy to correct, I would correct the banana-shape: you will notice the banana every time you look along the hull..... There is some serious misallignement on the bottom. Is the upperside OK? Jan
  19. amateur
    Send a PM to Chuck Pasarro, he designed the kit. If anyone could tell, he is the one (And always willing to help) Jan
  20. amateur
    thanks! I should spend some time on her/him to get the rigging done. Jan
  21. amateur
    Are you using the kit-supplied stuff, or are you making your own? Your own willl stretch, the kit-supplied stuff will not (or far less) I did not strtch mine, and it is still resonanbly tensioned. On the other hand, there is always some stretch. So I did not fix my shrouds directly, i set them up, and did increase the tension after a couple of days. Only my stays (whcih I made myself) had a tendency to lose tension over a period of weeks. Jan
  22. amateur
    And toyour other question: Mayfower is a bit early for a 1690-ies ship. Mayflower is more like 1610. Relatively small, and a bit old fashioned in her lines. Jan
  23. amateur
    Duizel? I thought I knew al the places.... Jan
  24. amateur
    Not quite sure what type of ship you refer to. The early colonist ships had some colour. Not too much in terms of elaborate carving, but some patters. (look ege at Susan Constant) I guess that in the colonies, the samepractoce was used as in Europe: no wood (except the decks) was left untreated, with either some natural tar (Stockholm tar), or brown paint. Jan
  25. amateur
    Anyone of you read the customer reviews? Don't expect quality Jan

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