amateur
-
Posts
3,428 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by amateur
-
Batavia by *Hans* - FINISHED
amateur replied to *Hans*'s topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Why are you casting in pewter? Has it advantages over resin? Jan -
Aren't you at the point of "overdetailing" your plug? The ditance betrween those stripes is so small, i wonder whether you will get a nice mould/hull out of that without a lot of problems of not fully filled details after pouring your hull. Jan
- 434 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- pelikaan
- beamtrawler
- (and 2 more)
-
The drawing is definitvely a Billings drawing. Also, the basic hulli comstruction is Billings, so Billings it is. Jan
-
If it's easy to correct, I would correct the banana-shape: you will notice the banana every time you look along the hull..... There is some serious misallignement on the bottom. Is the upperside OK? Jan
- 40 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- edmund fitzgerald
- iron shipwrights
- (and 1 more)
-
Block layout for Syren foremast and mainmast tops
amateur replied to Stringer52's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Send a PM to Chuck Pasarro, he designed the kit. If anyone could tell, he is the one (And always willing to help) Jan -
thanks! I should spend some time on her/him to get the rigging done. Jan
-
Are you using the kit-supplied stuff, or are you making your own? Your own willl stretch, the kit-supplied stuff will not (or far less) I did not strtch mine, and it is still resonanbly tensioned. On the other hand, there is always some stretch. So I did not fix my shrouds directly, i set them up, and did increase the tension after a couple of days. Only my stays (whcih I made myself) had a tendency to lose tension over a period of weeks. Jan
-
The painting of a 17th century ships hull
amateur replied to silverfoxes's topic in Nautical/Naval History
And toyour other question: Mayfower is a bit early for a 1690-ies ship. Mayflower is more like 1610. Relatively small, and a bit old fashioned in her lines. Jan -
Duizel? I thought I knew al the places.... Jan
-
The painting of a 17th century ships hull
amateur replied to silverfoxes's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Not quite sure what type of ship you refer to. The early colonist ships had some colour. Not too much in terms of elaborate carving, but some patters. (look ege at Susan Constant) I guess that in the colonies, the samepractoce was used as in Europe: no wood (except the decks) was left untreated, with either some natural tar (Stockholm tar), or brown paint. Jan -
Anyone of you read the customer reviews? Don't expect quality Jan
-
Perhaps you should dim the light somewhat. The lanterns look good, but quite bright. The original had oillamps and candles in the lantern, so not a very bright light.... Jan
-
fairing technique
amateur replied to michael101's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
It seems that they are off both in breadth as well as in height. That's tough.... Question: are the frames properly centered (left/right the same distance from the keel, or were the pre-cut slots off-center? Does the kit have a drawing on which the frames are depicted? If so, can you not check against those drawings which frames are more or less) correct, and which ones are off? Jan -
Hello Kees, Like NIls, I'm very interested in how you go from here: you started detailing the hull, but I understood that this hull is the master, you are going to use to fabricate a negative mould. But how are you going to get all this fine detail in your final hull? Casting, vacuum? Jan
- 434 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- pelikaan
- beamtrawler
- (and 2 more)
-
The easiest way is just go by Corels instructions. They are relatively easy to follow, as they give eachblock and belayingpint a number, and the rigging instruction says which order you have to follow fromblock to block. They also follow the standard practice: first the shrouds, next the stays, than the backstays, and finally the running rigging. Standing rigging was treated with stockholm tar, a dark brown oily substance, which acted as a preservative. running rigging wasnt treated. For the ratlines: draw a template, and keep that behind the srhouds to get your lines evenly, and prevent the outer shrouds to be pulled inward, as a resukt of too much tension in the ratlines. alternatively, you can try to come somewhat closer to the original practice, and buy a larkger range of blocksizes and rope diameters. In that case don'tmake my mistake..I did not make a complete overview of what should go where, so i had to redo quite a number of my blocks and lines, as I discovered too late that iput thewrong size in the wrong place .... Jan
- 139 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- corel
- prins willem
- (and 1 more)
-
If this is your weekly wage for restoration activities, you'll get pretty drunk after finishing the Norske Lowe Jan
- 14 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- yacht
- restoration
- (and 1 more)
-
We won't follow the rigging plan, although I'm pretty sure that it is better than what the Asian factory did a couple of years ago Jan
- 14 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- yacht
- restoration
- (and 1 more)
-
The replica as built, not at 45 degrees, but not completely vertical.
-
That's one of the logs I referred to, yes. The other one is this one: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5431-vasa-by-karleop-–-billing-boats-–-reviving-a-poorly-built-model/page-1 Don't misunderstand me. Wasa is indeed not an easy one. And there are more projects of this size that end somewhere long before the finish line (not alway sthe large, sometimes also the smaller ons that end their lives unfinished in a cupboard) The only thing I wanted to stress is that Billings Vasa has Always been the one closest to the real thing. And no, a ship like Vasa isn't the easiest start in modelling. Jan
-
My two cents. Start with a not too diggicult plank on bulkhead kit, to get the feel of planking. For the wasa kit, try the lime/baswood. It is easy to work with (far easier than dries out abachi), it is easy to shape, easy to bend, and quite tolerant to overbending (hardwood like walnut (european kitmakers favorite) snaps at toomuch bending. Also, by more than you need: easier to replace a not so well placed strip when you have enough of them. Btw: -although billings is not the best in drawings, manuals or materials, their research is quite good. billings wasa isbetter than themore expensive versions of corel or sergal (although the 70-ies version micgt be less, as they redesigned a couple of times as research on the wreck showed new There is a billings build log somewhere here on msw that shows what you can achieve from the kit. Jan
-
It might also be something that was rather popular inEurope: called Uhu-hart. No ca, no pva. As far as i know only to remove mechanically (and some problems in regluing with normal PVA). But i agree:riping of and starting over is the only option. Reconditioning old wood isn't the easiest way. You might try to get some basswood: not too expensive, far easier to work with than the Abachi billings provides. Jan
-
The designer of this kit (Chris Watton) has shown us the development of this kit. He has tried to design the kit in such a way that it does give a stunning model if build out of the box, but has also plenty of opportunities to go even further. The results is therefore a model that is very detailed at all (deck)levels. So, the choice to go for planking an dnot for lasered parts is a deliberate one. (as far as I understood the presentation of the kit) Jan
Our Emblem ®
