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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. Hi Piet, With respect to the colour, I agree with Hans. You may check Peter's (Olympic1911) log on the Hohenzollernmodell. Somewhere (canb't find the page) he shos his greyish/green paint for the upper hull. You might also consider redoing the red: check Hans's log of Batavia for a nice shade, or my pic of Batavia) With respect to the railing: did you think of (or even try) round banisters (like Padsmos/Blijdorp)? http://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085748 Jan
  2. Frohlich also shows it in his book 'the art of modelling'. He makes one side remark (which you already know, of course): the method will not do for models with a tumblehome (i.e. don't have their widest point at the top of the frames, but on deck-, or waterlinelevel.) Jan
  3. It's a shame how some people treat a nice model..... I can imagine your feeling. Good luck with the repairs. Will the model go to the same place afterwards, or are you going to look for a proper home for her? Jan
  4. Or (but you can only do that when the backside is out of sight, or should be painted), use woodglue to stick a piece of paper to the backside, instead of the masking tape. One other that worked fo me (but I did - nicely aligned and square - windows in a tugboat) is to use a very thin drill to mark the endpoints of the cut, and place a second cut on the backside of the wood. And try using a small as possible knife. I like the swan morton no 11 blade. Designed a a surgical knife, sharp enough to separate your fingertips from where they belong, but also very, very thin at the tip. Jan
  5. A small electric drill (proxxon/dremel/minicraft) will be very helpfull. Don't ask which one, because everyone is sure his is the best. A couple of good knives (I like the swann morton very much) Perhaps a soldering iron (or, as some will explain, a soldering torch is better) Can't help you beyond that, becuase I don't have more experience than that myself Jan
  6. Looks great. Is there somewhere a shop that sells these clamps, or are they self-made? (these probably are, I should refrase: or have these to be self-made) Jan
  7. May I give you a suggestion? The shrouds ( the lines form deadeye to masttop) are normally way thicker than the lanyards (the rope between the deadeyes). I guess it woudl contribute to the looks of your model if you used thicker rope for the shrouds. Jan
  8. Steingraeber is a German firm. It used to issue a couple of own kits until the early seventies I think. They still exist, but only as a shop selling kits from other manifacturers (and they sell shipmodels, of rather questionable quality....) Jan
  9. Did uou know this one? It is in German, but the drawings are not drawing of the frames (spant 116, letter d) suggest hinges on the upper side. http://dingler.culture.hu-berlin.de/article/pj315/ar315001 in the same issue of this journal are more articles on this ship (mainly engine stuff, check on the first link on the page: band 315, it brings you at the table of contents of the issue) Jan
  10. With respect to the bunker doors: lookoing at the puc of the Dutch liner (ss rotterda, early twenties), you can see that the doorst hinged sideways, with no visible hinges on the outside. The hinge was inside, and on the outside there are one or two large nuts to secure th e door a(to the extreme left of the pic you can see a closed door, and left of the coalloadi g people you can see the inside of an open door. titanic had the same construcion (as ifound out in the internet), no idea wheter or not the German liners were of the same build. Jan
  11. The same, but repeated ad infinitum Jan
  12. This should work. There is a german company that sells kits that are based on this principle. Although their kits are not without problems, the method as such does work. google for 'GK Modellbau" and 'Duke William" (don't buy: the model does not conform the historical drawings, but you'll see the method) Jan
  13. Hi Piet, With respect to the hinges, should we read it as a question or as an announcement? In both cases we all know the outcome Jan
  14. Ah well, the Spanish. You could see it the other way round: not much to get for the Spanish over here, so why invest in a military campaign. Just mudd and water Jan
  15. Interesting view: Even more interesting question: if this was indeed a succesfull invasion and occupation, why didn't reach OUR historybooks? Dutch interpretation (as far as I understood) is more that William was used by the English protestant royalists to solve their, entirely English, problem. Jan
  16. Why are you casting in pewter? Has it advantages over resin? Jan
  17. Aren't you at the point of "overdetailing" your plug? The ditance betrween those stripes is so small, i wonder whether you will get a nice mould/hull out of that without a lot of problems of not fully filled details after pouring your hull. Jan
  18. The drawing is definitvely a Billings drawing. Also, the basic hulli comstruction is Billings, so Billings it is. Jan
  19. If it's easy to correct, I would correct the banana-shape: you will notice the banana every time you look along the hull..... There is some serious misallignement on the bottom. Is the upperside OK? Jan
  20. Send a PM to Chuck Pasarro, he designed the kit. If anyone could tell, he is the one (And always willing to help) Jan
  21. thanks! I should spend some time on her/him to get the rigging done. Jan
  22. Are you using the kit-supplied stuff, or are you making your own? Your own willl stretch, the kit-supplied stuff will not (or far less) I did not strtch mine, and it is still resonanbly tensioned. On the other hand, there is always some stretch. So I did not fix my shrouds directly, i set them up, and did increase the tension after a couple of days. Only my stays (whcih I made myself) had a tendency to lose tension over a period of weeks. Jan
  23. And toyour other question: Mayfower is a bit early for a 1690-ies ship. Mayflower is more like 1610. Relatively small, and a bit old fashioned in her lines. Jan
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