dafi

Thank you Sirs :-) Big M.: The only thing to envy me are my specs - 3 dioptrine with build in LED for 5€ from the supermarket ;-) XXXDAN

Thank you Aldo, Andy, Popeye, Chris and all the others, very appreciated :-) So the next quantum leap, means lot of work for shortest distance possible ;-) Next were the gunport lid topping lifts. A blackened 0,3 mm copper wire wound around a 1 mm needle and cut into rings. For the next steps I skipped the tweezers and used fine pliers from the electro department, thus reducing the free flights of the parts enormously ! After some tests I did like follow: As the thread was to thin to do a real splice, I held the ring with the pliers ... ... some CA in the U-turn of the tread and twisted counter clockwise ... .. to get a well enough splice imitation. Then positiond the ring, hooked in ... ... closed with the pliers ... ... and the lift is in place :-) The original idea was to imitate the small tube that enters the hull with diluted PVA but now I wanted to try something more tricky. Some time ago I already presented the trick, that heated and pulled sprue keeps the proportion of its section. So I prepared a 4 mm sprue by drilling a center hole of 2 mm, fixed toothpicks on its ends ... ... and slowly heated it up and pulled to the wanted diameter ... ... then cut 3 mm pieces and fiddeld them on a 0,1 mm copper wire to avoid unwanted escapes. In the front the test topping lift. Then drilled 0,7 mm holes for the tubes pointing 45° upwards, inserted the tubes, glued them in and cut them to the necessary length ... ... used a needle to reopen the squeezed holes, put the lift in and glued it by fixing with the needle. And it looks like this: With a little more practice it will for shure look even tidier macro wise, but for the naked eye it already works :-) Cheers, Daniel

Thank you Lawrence and Gil! I love the "very serious" bending jig :-) Thank you for posting! Here is my "very toyful" jig Lieber Gruß, Daniel

Thank you Dirk, Kats, Mark, Popeye, Paul, Jan and "Bones" :-) :-) :-) I am already wondering, but nobody dares asking about the title of the thread ;-) ... okokok, before I have to wait too long: dafi, what strange thread title you have ?!? Once upon a time, the shout from the channels was to be heard "By the Deep 17" meaning a little more than 17 fathoms of water were measured, roundabout 30 meters. The line used was ca. 20 to 25 fathoms long (about 36 to 45 meters) and had marks indicating the depth measured. So the shout "By the Mark XX" meant that it was exactely on the mark and "By the Deep XX" meant it to be above the mark. The marks were at 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 17 und 20 fathoms (after Nares) and had : 2 fathoms leather with 2 stripes, 3 fathoms leather with 3 stripes, 5 fathoms white, 7 fathoms red, 10 fathoms leather with hole 13 fathoms blue, 15 fathoms white, 17 fathoms red und 20 fathoms two knots. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sounding_line So hastily made the 20 fathom line, fitted marks and lead ... ... and the sound of the falling lead could be heard :-) "By the Deep ..." XXXDAn

Wonderful :-) Daniel

Dear Robin, thank you for your feedback!!! Thank you, Daniel PS: As it is more quiet here - I am not in summernation yet, here is the little side project, closely linked to this one :-) http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1487-by-the-deep-17-by-dafi-royal-navy-17801805-display/page-3

Bang :-) :-) :-) XXXDAn

And more tempting as the 1803 chain irons are the 1765 ones: same length but two pieces more! Testing the lengths, carefully remembering that the outer ones are longer. ... homeopathic doses of solder ... ... degreased the wire, first soldering the single rings, then joining them on the central part, the flux with the solder embedded, small touch with the hot iron ... ... and the same game with the dead eye and the triple pack ... ... adjusting over the edge of a blade ... ... and comparison: bottom as cut, then solderd and on top adjusted. Inside length 4 mm :-) A small jack done for thinning the deadeyes ... ... and painting them with casein paint to give a better to scale wood appearance than the original wood ... ... put on place ... ... made the batten to cover the channels ... ... and painted and rusted. And here the comparison :-) Cheers, Daniel

Oh Mark, I am sooooo sorry ;-) XXXDAn PS: Thanks for referring to my build, this is worth more than an award!

Hello Brian, look here: #160 down to 165 :-) Plus extras: #136 #146 #150 #156 I do believe that the bulkwards were taken down, as the stanchions in the way had to be removed. The way back to the front was often done by just dragging the messenger over the floor. Daniel

Another of your great builds, wonderful to see, Daniel

That skipped my eye :-) I will follow with pleasure! XXXDAn

Wonderfully done :-) Congratulstions for the results! Daniel

Wonderful and lovely job :-) XXXDAn

As always: Big thanks for showing the how-to-do :-) Always an inspiration! Daniel

Love it :-) Daniel

Thanks Brian, Paul and Mark, as always, I do not know yet what this is for, just a small nagging voice inside my head told me to do so ... XXXDAn

Wonderful as always!!! Daniel

But still the question: Is it the same result on the guns as the contemporary paints? So we are having three different types of guns: brass, iron and steel. Each different in the upkeeping :-) Daniel

And the weekend show, some quantum leaps - means very small and little :-) fitted the last lid ... ... and fitted with lanyards. The holes in the brass fittings were deepend into the plastic by means of a hot needle ... ... so the brass is not damaged like with a drill and the deep is automatically fixed by the cones of the needle tip and the size of the hole in the fitting ... ... and it looks like this. Grüßle, Daniel

Hello Jürgen, nice to see you here! All the best, Daniel

Thank you both Garward and Maurice! @ Garward: It is always a treat to see your wonderful and precise models! Thanks for linking to the blackenig of your wonderful barrals! If I got it wright, this are the means of blackening the model parts. I also look very much onto who the original guns appeared when being blackened. Do you have any sources of that too? @ Maurice: As always, you pull exactely the source that was in my mind! Bruzelius´great collection of original sources. I edited the titel of the thread to make more precise: How was it done in the old days and especially, how did it look like? Cheers, Daniel

If my memory serves me well, the "paint" for blackening the guns consisted of turpentine, tar, rust, and other components, cooked and applied hot. But I cant find the recipe any more, but I recall it being out of a contemporary source. Any clues where to find that? And coming with that: Any clue how the painted barrels looked like? Glossy brownish shining appearance? Thanks for any enlightenment, Daniel EDIT: Precised Titel

Here both versions side by side, same ship, only 40 years of difference in between ... ... fascinating, as a good friend of mine would say ;-) Got the gun carriages messed and gave a brownisch oil coat to the barrels as some of the ingredients - rust and tar - suggest ... ... and the tompions plain without color, sticking out and not todays fancy thread in the middle, as the artifacts in NMM and museums suggest. Just one try with a line that goes around, but it does not look to convincing. The shoe for the anchor was fixed in the appropriate place and that is the thing for the moment :-) Cheers, Daniel

Sooooooo after some time finally managed to do some new bricotage ... ... fitted the deadeyes ... ... used the revolutionairy Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology for grinding the needle heads ... ... put the batten ... ... and it looks even neater than the bits on my Vic :-) Too take this back added some paint and rust ... ... and tomorrow once the paint is well dried, I can take it back a tad and do the finetuning :-) Lieber Gruß, Daniel