Gaetan Bordeleau

Cherry carves well. But it depends of the level of details. Cherry will not be able to take extra fine details.

1 hour ago, dvm27 said:

hey will keep most of the ship models on display.

Actually there is a major restoration program going on and they will be display again. Photos up there came from  a series of video about the restoration actually happening.

2 hours ago, targa4403 said:

I look at the hooks etc that those two ladies are using and it makes me think that they are making ropes for large ship models.  But for me, Monsieur Gaétan Bordeleau's models are large.

This type of rope making machine is used to make ropes for models varying from 1/12 to 1/192 scale.

7 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

For years, I've used dedicated small tool boxes

After I built the last cabinet, all the small tools fitted 1 cabinet, so I gave all the other wood cabinets.

7 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Metal mechanics' chests are certainly serviceable

Storage for these is incredible for metal tools. You can customize each drawer  and each drawer they can support 300 pounds. I have another series of chest. they were used by a lens fabricator. They had cardoard little boxes that I also used int he small wood chest.The global idea is I guess when you have few tools, you need drawers.

3 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Time was that chests similar to this one were made for medical and dental professionals, but they are very hard to come across these days, at least at an affordable price. 

Antique  wood dental chest are very nice. We could say  it is like a Gerstner chest with more drawers. With the years, I did some tool chest in this style. The last one I did include over 1000 tool and accessories. The main difference and also the main reason it can have so many tools is because of the height and the depth of the drawers.

7 minutes ago, targa4403 said:

if they are using that machine to make ropes for model ships, I can just imagine the size of those models

This rope machine can be use for all size of models. There is not only the size of the ropes but also the number of ropes. By example, the biggest anchor rope I turned was made with 3 (64 X 3): 576 threads.

22 hours ago, wefalck said:

I gather by chosing how many sheaves they use, they can vary the pulling force.

Or by changing the weight. It is easier not use the pulley but to reduce the weight instead. Simple machine and as much effective as  it can be:

gear system to tun ropes, cone  not to mix the ropes, swivel and weight to get the perfect rope in number of turns and tension.

I have seen a lot of rope making machine over the years from the most simple to the most exotics. There are a lot of ways to turn ropes and the quality of the turned ropes can cover a wide area of quality.

Here are 2 example of rope machine, similar in their principle:

The rope machine from the Musée de la Marine

The rope machine I use

One of the greatest advantage of this type of rope machine is that it can control the rigidity or the flexibility of the rope. The more weight, the more rigid will be the rope and also the swivel is a regulator for the tension and the number of turns.

There are a lot of tools on the market and some do the job the best way possible...

On 9/25/2023 at 6:06 PM, CPDDET said:

But I need to find a honing guide that will work with them. Anyone have ideas?

This tool was done for this many years ago.

Jewelry is a good source of inspiration for tools, Here is an example of the classical workbench 100 years apart.

Electric height adjustable desk is probably the best tool we can use for many reasons.

I have seen many declinations of armrest, the first one I remember  was a felt donut recovered with leather for the elbow.

In a way, all these resting tools offers the same thing: allowing to rest a part of the arm to have a better control of the hand.

there is the same thing  in art painting and it is called painter mahl stick

54 minutes ago, knightyo said:

One thing I'd point out to anyone considering a small scale is that once you are used to working under magnification, it's not really any more difficult to build at a small scale than it is large, especially once you get used to "bracing" your hands/work.  I've grown very attached to a pretty low-quality, inexpensive magnifier I use to work on my Nina.  I tried the optivisors, but to me, they were almost more of an irritation than a help.  It's much easier to work under a "desk lamp-arm style" magnifier.

I would say that the main difference working small vs larger is the concentration level is very much more demanding, especially in carving to control your hands moves which are much more smaller.

The magnifier style you use is a personal choice. I like to work  with Optivisor and for smaller scale I like to use a surgical loupe and occasionally for quality control a microscope.

I did something about 30 years ago at 1/192 scale.

Why nobody in the books talk about this subject? I think, we highly underestimate the enemy: the aggressiveness of the salt.

Why would a line be tarred and the next one untarred? Inevitably, by cross contamination, both lines would finish tarred.

Jean Boudriot wrote a letter about which lines are tarred.

One sentence is interesting: The rope for the ship rudder wheel is not expose to the salt, so tarring this line is unjustified.

Does that mean that the idea is very simple: If a line is expose to the salt, tar the line.

Every tool yo will choose will always be a personal choice.

Here is what I would use especially to be comfortable while working: height adjustable  table, omnidirectional vise, micro motor, magnifying lens and at least 2 LED light adjustable in intensity and position.

I did a figurehead at 1/192 and used the microscope  just for finishing touch of the head and the hands. I do not like to carve with chisels because you have to control the strength you are using. It is  much easier to control with dentist burs, no strength required, you just let the tool work. Also for the vision it is  easier to work with chirurgical magnifying glass or dental loupes with a working distance between 10 and 20 inches.

As usual, I know nothing about English Construction.

If it would be a French warship, the lower part touching the feet would be parallel to the upper one, simply because it would be much more pleasing to the eye, but as a counter  effect, it would probably change a bit the angle of the figurehead.

2 hours ago, James G said:

fitting out my shop with quality tools that will perform at a high level

If it is only for model ship building, , this drill press is not required.

Cameron drill press are made to reach high level of concentricity on metal, and it is not necessary for wood.

2 hours ago, James G said:

range in price from $300 to $800 depending on condition

At $300, you will surely need to replace some parts, chuck and especially bearings.

I have up to 1/64

probably came from KBC Tools

On 11/30/2022 at 4:17 AM, Richard Dunn said:

Anigre on right for contrasting colour parts and all deck planking.

Wood color is a very interesting subject. For years, I used different exotic wood colors and I did like it.  The choice of the wood colors is primarily a personal choice and we must be careful not to use too much  "contrasting effects".

In the recent years, I changed that choice and I prefer to use only 1 kind of wood. For 1/24 scale I would classify cherry as a prime choice. The wood we use should be ideally similar to oak at 1/1 scale to oak at 1/24 scale. Cherry does a very good job at this level. You must be careful in the choice of the planks you will use. Cherry has few wood grain configurations. The best one is the one that runs parallel to the plank and the one to avoid is the one where the grain runs perpendicular to the plank.

I was looking at the alignment of 3 ships... is that enough to call it: Ships of the line?

probably, they all can send photos to this forum  as long as it is .jpeg format

I do not know Android phones but photos format are probably not .jpeg

by example  Iphone are .heic which needs to be converted to .jpeg before sending it

7 hours ago, Dr PR said:

Here is an overhead view of what I have in mind

The configuration I use: everything on wheels, this way I can set the tools as I need for every project.  Workbenches are massive and are made to build furniture. Electric height adjustable table is better suited for a modeler, one of its main quality: working at the good height as much for the hull and the rigging.

I tried a new way to take photos inside a ship with an endoscope from Amazon for $55 cdn. Wifi HD 5MP 3-8 cm. It is good for focal distance very close 3 to 8 cm only. There will be no good results for a complete deck. for this you will need a camera with auto focus capability like the Go Pro.

The camera can take photos and videos. 

On 8/15/2022 at 12:34 PM, Waldemar said:

I think the secret lies not so much in a thorough knowledge of the software, but in the right philosophy of constructing a 3D model, especially of this kind. Generally, first I define the master surfaces of the hull, decks, stern "flat", beakhead, bulkheads, etc. True, some are simpler and others more complex to define, but well worth of effort, as these master surfaces are later an indispensable basis for creating the actual parts of the ship by offsetting them (not just moving!) and then cutting to shape. Almost nothing else but offsetting, cutting and other Boolean operations.

In addition, you have an artistic eye to show your drawing at angles which are simply incredible!