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Everything posted by Seventynet
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Hi Dave, I have worked with Alaskan Yellow Cedar quite a bit. It is a beautiful wood to work with, but soft. I built a bit of furniture with it decades ago and it always stuck with me how nice it was to work with. It planes like nothing else. It holds an edge well, sands nicely (although with coarser grits it will get furry) and takes stain fairly uniformly. It does not bend nearly as readily as boxwood but maybe I just haven’t figured out the best way to do it. It has a very distinctive smell that many like, others dislike (I’m one of the latter). Your observation that it is a bit harder than basswood is how I’d characterize it. For that reason one has to take care not to mar it using undue clamp pressure. I have decked two models with it and find it perfect for that application since I use my fingers to hold it in place while the glue dries. I love the colour and hue of this wood like no other. Regards, Ian
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Hi Rob, This is looking really good! Ingenious flag locker. I am glad to see that you can squeeze some time into the Vic while working that job. Good on ya. I’ll email you to do the coffee thing. best, ian
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I’m just about to start on the Cheerful carronades and started the Queen Anne Barge yesterday. Keep your amazing work up!
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Looking fantastic Ben!
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I just finished deck planking my Cheerful with yellow cedar. I really like it. It is the best application for this wood in my opinion. regards, ian
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Thanks! I look forward to your next posting.
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Great job Jean-Paul. Your log will help me avoid the same mistakes once I open the box😀. You mentioned that you applied tung oil. I take it then that there are no worries about glue adhering to the frames after that? Or do you sand those areas first? ian
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You are doing a wonderful job Don. Love the wood too. When do you fit the dragon's head? Ian
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Beautiful job Boyd, you should be proud indeed! Ian
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Hi B.E., Looking good. I don't know if you'd want to consider using your Amati stand for hull planking. I did and it made life simple. I glued and braced some strips to the false keel. A little work cutting them out when I'm through but the cost benefit is there for me. Ian
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Nice clean organized start Jean-Paul. I’ll be following along with interest. Regards, Ian
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I will follow along too. Always a learning experience with your work Rusty. Ian
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Very clever to pre-bend the strakes between the gun ports BE. Wish I'd thought of that. Ian
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Nice work Ben. Looking forward to many more pictures to help me when I get started on this beauty. Ian
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Don if you can make that bend I want a full description of how you do it. Edge bending walnut that thick that much would be beyond me. Which of course is not saying much. A scarph joint might look pretty good?
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Hi Mike, Nice build! If if you want plank lines at the bow like Gregory’s you will have to do a fair amount of spiling and will therefore need sheet stock of walnut. Spiling is easy once you come up with a method of transferring the curves to the wood. I have no problems planking, bending and spiling with walnut. In fact it was my favourite wood to work with until boxwood spoiled me. 🙂
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B.E. (and Kurt) you are just so darn inventive. I wish I was behind you guys so I could benefit from your ideas but I’m well into hull planking now. The only small suggestion I can make is that when it comes to thinning the stern flank pieces, think about using a jewelry saw instead of a dremel drum to get very close to where you need to be. I just didn’t trust myself to hit the adjacent stern frames. Worked perfectly and reduced the sawdust and noise fury. Ian
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