Chuck

Rusty, that does look fantastic. Its looking great. Cant wait to see it in person one of these days.

Lovely!!!!! Brings back memories. This is when it really starts coming together.

Thanks...I have actually been throwing two ideas around in my head. I am seriously considering the Hornet of 1812. Or a Colonial Schooner. But leaning really hard in the direction of Hornet.

Thank You fellas Today I added the waterway on top of the margin planks. Originally I was going to use a 1/16" x 1/16" strip. But after some thought I switched and used a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar. I carefully sanded away one corner so the strip was like a quarter round molding. Then I glued it along the bulwarks. Then it was time for the checker pattern floor in the great cabin. This is 3/64" thick. It is laser etched with the pattern as you can see. It is cut over-sized so with a little tweaking it should fit everyone's model. So it is crucial that you make a paper pattern first that fits in the space tight. Then trace it on the sheet and cut it to fit your model. Try for a nice tight fit!!! I prefer a subtle pattern that isnt too dark. So many models end up with a black and white pattern which I find so distracting. Remember where the forward bulkhead will be so you position the forward edge correctly. My floor ends right under where the deck beam will be so I know the bulkhead will sit on top of the edge of the checker pattern. From this point, I will slowly make my way forward building the various coamings and partners. This needs to be done so we can plank the deck properly around these items. You can see that the one coaming and grating was completed. I wont add the ladder until later. But I did manage to build the capstan partners. The capstan partner sits against the coaming. It is also laser cut in three pieces and glues together quickly. I simulated the seams between each section. I also softened the top edge because it shouldnt be a hard edge. One interesting feature about the partners is that it should NOT be glued directly to the false deck. The deck is sloped which is to be expected. But the partners need to be level otherwise the capstan will not work properly. This means the forward edge of the partners need to be lifted a bit to raise it up and level it off. I did this with a little cheat. I added a small length of a 1/32" strip under the forward edge which will be covered up after we plank the deck. You will notice how it looks lifted up on the forward side and level. If you need to sand the bottom of the aft edge a bit to make it level then that is OK also. I simulated the bolts using 20 pound black monfilament. You guys should pick some up in various sizes as we will be using it a lot throught the model. Chuck

I have already sprayed them so you are good to go. BUT you may want to lightly spray again if want. Use a matte spray fixative is best. Hairspray is a last resort.

That is turning out terrific. Nice job with the painting. You are gettin close now.

Its all a learning process. If you can get through planking this hull I am sure your next project will be even better.

You mean the etched lines and letters. That is done by running the laser at very low power and a higher speed. The laser doesnt cut all the way through. It just lightly scores the surface and it shows up because it burns a Light line in the wood

Its really coming together Glenn. Looks really good so far.

Yes...very nice. Its looking vey good

Today I planked the inboard stern. There are five strakes. They are all laser cut with the proper curve. Note that I started with the top plank so it would be flush with the bottoms of the windows. We will be adding a thin sill and some molding later on top of this to finish it off. Excuse the dust!!! But each new addition does clean every up a bit and make it look nicer covering up all of the frames and bulkheads. I also decided NOT to high light the seams between these planks as I think they would look too busy. It will look cleaner this way with the paneled rudder trunk and benches in front of it. Also not how the bottom three planks dont span the entire width of the stern. The center will be left open for the rudder and this whole area will be covered with the paneled rudder trunk. In fact we will be adding the rudder real soon. But first I want to get the deck planked. So next up was adding the margin planks. These are also laser cut with scarfs. But be aware that it is unlikely that these will fit your model perfectly. There will be so many differences in the way each of you fair inboard and create the inboard shape of the hull. So some of you will no doubt have to use them as a starting point to trace them and cut new ones to fit your model. Its not very hard to do. They are 3/64" thick. The aft section against the transom was positioned first. The aft edge was beveled to fit snug against the transom. Then I started adding each of the four sections along each side. Starting at the bow and working my way aft. Next up I will add the waterway which will be a 1/16" x 1/16" strip that is angled on the inboard side. You know the drill. Its the same way as done with all of my projects. Once that is done I will start building the platforms and coaming down the center of the deck so I can plank around them. Here is how she looks now. Testing the deck beams too!!!

Dont get ahead of yourself. I will be making the ships boats too. But prob a pinnace. It looks better. But thats down the road. They will be stored on spare topmasts in the waist.

They are just spares....I had extra room on the sheets so I figured why not add some. It is looking very good.

No but keep in mind that the contemporary model doesnt match the original draft in many cases. So I went with the original draft for my measurements. In the end it wont matter. It will just look a bit different. You could actually go with either way depending on what you like best.

You guys should try.....to get started with little investment I recommend cutting your bulkheads by hand. If you could complete chapter one without too much trouble then you can absolutely build it. Its no more difficult then building and planking any frigate kit. Its just that this time you will be learning how to plank properly as opposed to the "creative" methods suggested by most kits. AND although most who do a good job planking the lower hull will want to leave it so folks can see it, the Winnie was copper plated and that would be a an option if its the planking that scares you.

Correct

That looks so much better. So well worth the effort. Well done.

That looks good. Best to have all laser reference on the bheads facing forward for the lettered bheads. Its the opposite for the numbered bheads.

The kit is indeed pirated. The plans were stolen from an author who produced them for a ship model magazine in the 1990's. The plans were stolen from the author without permission. No legitimate kit exists from the plans BUT....it is a relatively easy subject to build. The plans are available for sale in copies of the magazine you can find online. I own a set of these plans and they are so easy to use to scratch build it with some simple tools. They were drawn by Peter Danks for Model Boats magazine in 1993. It was the March issue. Much like Model Shipwright magazine, this magazine routinely printed and inclused full sized plans in many issues. These are easy pickins for slimey pirates. Many of the kits these companies pirate are based on such plans froms the 70's, 80's and 90's. I might also add that I have received official permission to use these plans to create a kit in the future if I choose to. Its such an easy and attractive project I might just do that. Although I would use my design for the skeletal and frame parts. Its a little dated. It is a model of a water Hoy.....You should build it from scratch!!!! Chuck

Ken that looks really good. A really nicely planked hull!!!

Remember...Cheerful isnt an all-in-the box kit like the longboat or barge. More scratch parts etc. Not a kit at all. It is a semi scratch project with some fittings and parts lasercut. I really do wish more would try scratch building some of those fittings as well. Everything you need is listed on the website including a list of rope and blocks. But you may need a few odd pieces of wood for some stuff not seen like the false deck and rabbet strip. You can simply buy basswood for this other stuff. Chuck

Looking good so far. Just remember to keep you nails cut short and keep your hands clean while using the cedar. Once you get used to it, its a wonderful wood to use.. Chuck

Im going to leave the panels natural. Just some poly. But as I mentioned in the instructions...a shade very close to the contemporary model can be achieved by using Old masters fruitwood gel stain. No masts or rigging sorry. But those can be added on your own if you like. Its pretty standard stuff. My hull will end up this same color when done. Its what I prefer. But you can use whatever finish you prefer if you build her. I should have my store back open next week sometime. It depends on whether or not the post office has gotten their act together. I may send a few test orders out just to be sure before opening up.

Yes the ports around the panels were touched up before the panelled sheets we glued in place. As far as the other planks....no I waited to trim back those planks and then apply wood filler if need. Then those gun ports were cleaned up and painted at the same time as the inboard bulwarks. Chuck

That looks good. No i did t mess with those. Its the same as on my model.