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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Chuck
    Very Very nice!!!
  2. Chuck
    Michael...that is looking really fantastic. Nice work. The scary is part is now done with. The remainder of the build is lots of fun. I hope you enjoy it!!
  3. Chuck
    You are very welcome Glenn. Enjoy the project. Its a real fun model to build. I am looking forward to seeing your progress. I cant believe how quickly you got those packages. Chuck
  4. Chuck
    Just wait until later and if needed use wider planks for the 2nd layer of the wales.
  5. Chuck
    If you are cutting your planks to shape with the spiled curve, you will need to use a wide sheet the same thickness as your planking. if you only have thin strips, you can bend them edge wise. see this video series
  6. Chuck
    Dont worry about the bollards. Just cut the planking around it. Remember...the bollard timbers will be painted black anyway.... Any of the bollard timber that may show will be unseen deep within the head timbers. Just leave it as is. With the planking...small gaps and or small changes in beveling will give you that tiny difference. It is also not wort over thinking and worrying about. If you want to cut down a wider piece so it fits and matches the bottom layer that would be fine. I do however think it is a mistake to add the second layer of wales now. You should wait until the planking above and below the wales is completed first. The whole reason for two layers is so you can micro-correct the run of the wales should you need to and this becomes more evident only after having the topsides planked.....and the drop plank in position. In addition, there is a strong possibility that you will chip or dent and damage the edges of your wales while planking everything else. Then you cant really fix that. You can build in any order you like but if you are curious as to why I selected the order and why I use 2 layers.....those are the reasons. Chuck
  7. Chuck
    Remember to have fun along the way!!!!
  8. Chuck
    Thank you....yes some of those parts were tricky to mfg. Just be careful because some of them are fragile.
  9. Chuck
    I am sure you can fix that right up. The windows do look good and they fit really well. For everyone else, have a look below. You can tell pretty easily if you havent faired the outside stern frames enough. Notice how the outside stern frames are nearly the same width as the four inside frames when viewing the stern head on. This is important and everyone should correct this if they can before they start chapter 3. Those outside stern frames should be thinned down considerably. Compare these to the width of Matthias' outside sterm frames. I would say probably in the neighborhood of 1/16" too wide....give or take. I have drawn a red line to show you guys. Its also shown on the plans.
  10. Chuck
    Its not a huge issue but yes it requires a fix. You can simply cut a bit off of your filler like this below. But also carefully slice a bit from your window on the inboard side as well. As long as it looks centered when you view the false window from the other side. But in addition....you might consider chiseling some of that planking away. The filler is 3/32" thick. So draw a line that represents this on your hull and chisel away some of that planking. Maybe another 1/32" or even all of the planking. But remember to glue a filler block on the inboard side of your planking before you start chiseling. You will need a backer there for your planks.....between the stern post and that qgallery door. These are all things to consider. You can do a combination of all three. Its up to you. I hope that helps. Yes most folks underfair the hull back there.
  11. Chuck
    Looking great Mike. Yes the friezes for the lower and upper counter are a great way to check the curves. They will also help you get a consistent width for the upper counter. In Mike's photo below....the space between the two friezes is where the 1/8" wide molding will go. So align the upper counter frieze with the bottom of the transom and that should leave 1/8" between the lower counter frieze. Perfect!!!!
  12. Chuck
    Beautifully clean model. The finishing techniques are superb.
  13. Chuck
    Yes but the washer was already on it....but it doesnt have to be. Just use these....after the bit breaks of course. The kind with the 1/8" shanks.
  14. Chuck
    That looks pretty good to my eye. Well done!!!
  15. Chuck
    I think Rusty is using swiss pear and not cherry.
  16. Chuck
    Its a micro drill bit after the bit broke off. They are perfect and conical to use for making thimbles.
  17. Chuck
    Very nice planking Rusty. You are making some great progress.
  18. Chuck
    Actually for cheerful you probably wont need it for much at all. If you buy all of the laser cut mini-kits there really isnt much else to cut on a scroll saw. Chuck
  19. Chuck
    That looks really nice. Nice and neat. Well done!!!
  20. Chuck
    Excellent work!!! The hull looks good and the run of your planking is really good. You must feel good to get that finally behind you. And no stealers at the stern which looks so much better. Only one drop plank at the bow. That is how you plank the hull of a frigate.
  21. Chuck
    Here is chapter three!!! Disregard any typos!!!!! Chapterthree.pdf Dont hesitate to ask me any questions!!!!
  22. Chuck
    Cant say really. I am still writing it. But not too long. I am confident it will be ready sooner than anyone will need it.
  23. Chuck
    Maybe in a week or so. I am pretty sure most you guys arent ready for them yet so there is no hurry to buy them. In fact it might be better to wait until you are nearly ready for them because by that time I may have the parts available for chapter four also. Chuck
  24. Chuck
    Its not a race so take your time. This group build will be up and running for a very very long time. Slow and steady!!!!
  25. Chuck
    Thanks Ken!!!!

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