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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. That looks fantastic. Well done. Your order for the other parts shipped out today so its perfect timing. Chuck
  2. You did a great job on that planking. It would be a real shame to ruin that with an odd treenailing job. I wouldnt just put them at the butt joints. That looks awful. It only looks right if the treenails are to scale and placed where they would be. The sample board you made is definitely too large. That would really be a mistake in my opinion. I would not go larger than a #78 drill bit. You might want to try using brown mono-filament. You can even use black....I would go with 10 pound stock and nothing larger than 12 lb fishing line. They would be nice and neat. A brown line looks very good and I have seen one Cheerful hull done that way and it looks great. Otherwise the treenails can get too large with irregular shape. The other very good option is to not show treenails at all. That planking looks so good it would be a shame to ruin it with an odd pattern or large treenails. It would look fantastic as it is right now.
  3. No not at this time. Maybe a lot later down the road. It would be too huge for me to rig. But plans for rigging her may be done way way down the road. Chuck
  4. Very very nice....try and experiment with all different kinds of threads. You will find one that is excellent and it will be your "go-to" thread for modelling. Keep track of the recipe you use. Make a log of all that for future rope making sessions.
  5. Welcome to the group!!!! Looking forward to seeing your model underway. Its never too late to join the group.
  6. Yes but unless the eyebolts and hooks are smaller you cant use 2mm blocks. Depending on the size of the cannon...you might be talking a 9" block as as well. Which would be closer to 3/32". 3/32" would be fine at 2.5mm. 1/8" scale is a tough scale to work on.
  7. Blocks would have been 8" long and at that scale they would be??? 3/32" long I believe. I know its challenging but I would also consider making the ring bolt smaller in the carriage. That would help. It looks to be about 8" round considering the block size in the photo. Maybe try with thinner gauge wire. Chuck
  8. Yupp, thats how I do it. I dont use a push stick or any blocks. I just use my hands. Maybe some would see this as unsafe but i feel I get more control actually with my hands touching the sheet being milled. For me its the safer way to go. With thinner sheets....like 1/32” sheets where I am ripping 1/32” x 1/32” strips, I will use two or three clamps on the fence to keep the wood down on the table. The thin sheets want to bend and buckle and more clamps seem to do the trick as a hold down. Its really not hard to do and just takes a bit of practice getting comfortable.
  9. They look OK....the length wont affect things. But yes they are the typical funky shape for commercial ones being very bulbous on the tops. I am more worried about you not being able to get the rope coils over the top of those because they are so close together. But it will probably be OK. I think you should use the longer ones. They are much better than the shorter ones.
  10. Chapter four materials list has been uploaded in the first post of this topic. I am working on finishing up the Chapter 4 of the monograph now and should have the parts ready as well. Maybe a few days more. Take a look at the materials list though because when you buy the package for the laser cut parts for chapter four.....you may need to get more 2" planking sheets to rip planks/strips for your gun deck and bulwarks. It depends on how many you have left.....I added how many I used four chapter 4 to the list....as well as two 4" wide sheets of 3/64" cedar so you guys can make your margin planks. Rather than laser cut these it is better if you make them to fit your model perfectly. I uploaded the template for them as they will absolutely need to be tweaked to fit your model well. I uploaded it to the Winnie plans download forum.....where you downloaded the plans. Chuck
  11. Thats bad.....Trident has been accused of violating free trade? That sounds very very serious indeed. Accused by who? It all does sound a bit shady. I wouldnt touch this with a ten foot pole. Maybe cut your losses and buy the CAF Coureur instead. Get your refund but I wouldnt send them any more money. I am 100% certain that you would be better off with CAF as they actually have their own website. I am not sure how you would even contact Trident without them having a website. Trident Model is a member here on MSW and I will ask them to respond. I must unfortunately also mention that my last two private messages to Trident some weeks ago went unanswered so we shall see. Keep us posted.
  12. Those flags look really good. Very realistic and to scale. You shaped them pretty darn good too. If you alternate the blades of the sweeps on the left and right sides of each stack, it looks much better and more balanced.
  13. Wormwood, welcome to MSW. You should introduce yourself to the forum in the area we have set up for it here. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/ As this is your first post, it is customary to do so. However I appreciate you giving us details of your transactions with Trident. It certainly doesnt sound good at all. I have read on SOS that there are many folks who have had their orders cancelled without warning and they have not gotten their money back. This is for the new Alert kit. I would recommend that everyone be very cautious and certainly wait before placing an order. You dont want to get in the middle of a bad situation. I dont quite understand the situation but as far as I have been told and what I have read on SOS, its not a very good situation. I hope it worksd out for you and you get your money back. As it is China....I am not sure what if any protections you might have. Maybe through your CC company. Thanks for letting us know and keep us updated. I edited the title of this topic so folks more readily know what it is about. Chuck
  14. You could try it. I have not heard of that. But there is no way to tell until you try it. It could work well.
  15. Jorge, the break at the forecastle you see is very much typical and correct. Later they continued it to the forecastle but early on this was indeed the way it done. Just have a look at the many contemporary sources available. Too many to list but here are some contemporary examples.
  16. Your model looks fantastic. Quite well done and it was a pleasure to follow along as you built it.
  17. Wonderful planking. Once youve planked a hull after lining it off, you will never plank one without doing so again. The results speak for themselves.
  18. She looks fantastic. You should be quite pleased with that. Very nice and clean model you have. I will note that you will need to turn the model upside down one more time to drill and file out the rudder opening hole in the lower counter. You might want to remove the Lantern for that. I also have a newer design coming for the lantern that is made entirely out of Boxwood so no painting is needed. It is slightly different than the one you used. Just in case that one might get damaged. I was going to leave that until much later in the project. It makes me nervous just looking at it. Here is the prototype for the improved "all boxwood" lantern. The windows are just .015 thick.
  19. Indeed it is. The only build logs not welcomed are those which are from pirated kits copied from unethical manufacturers. There is a list of those in our guidelines. Chuck
  20. That looks very good. Its a difficult hull to plank and you did an exceptional job.
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