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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Very nice progress. That is some neat and tidy craftsmanship. Those parts can get tricky to make and install.
  2. Really looking good. Dont be afraid to sand the heck out of that planking. Get it nice and smooth.
  3. Thank you all for the kind words!!!! and Likes!!! I think its time to move inboard and get some work done.
  4. Its nylon or plastic so All of the traditional methods wont work. You need to heat it up and hang a wright on the end.
  5. Try not to over think it. Never got any bubbles. Not even a little bit. I just use a glue stick. Works perfectly. Make sure no lumpy glue. Stick it on. Its really that simple. For a finish I spray them with matte fixative and let them dry before cutting them out. if you are curious....print one out and glue it to some scrap as a test. It should answer all your questions. Spray mount would also work but less open time. With the glue stick you can move it around and slide it before it sets.
  6. thanks guys. Its not too tough Bob. Its about the same difficulty as my other designs like the long boat. Just bigger with more parts. no more difficult to build in my opinion...but i am probably not the best person to ask since I designed it.
  7. The stern transom details are now completed....along with chapter 3. I still have to finish writing it though. Then I will start getting the laser cut pieces together for you folks. The columns were added to finish it off. These were done exactly like those on the quarter galleries. The outside face of each upright between the windows were painted blue first. I was careful not to get the paint on the sides of the uprights. The top and bottom of each column was was cut to length from a strip of 3/32 x 1/32" boxwood. This strip was first scraped to create the profile needed (all those steps in each base and top). Once I cut and angled each piece I used a needle file to also shape the ends to match the profile. Then the center fluted column which is laser cut and etched was glued between them. I just removed the char and then tweaked the length for a tight fit. Lastly, the two small figures were glued to the front of those wider columns. That really finished the look of the stern. I am quite happy with the results so far. The color of the resin was tinted a bit as previously mentioned. Chuck
  8. Its not really good at all. The grain is far too pronounced. I have tried.
  9. No progress on my Winnie but I finally found a day to fix my Cheerful. It got severely damaged when i brought it to the joint clubs show. The model got smashed on the ride back and the rigging pulled off the pin rails and the stern knees. It was a bear to position those pin rails against the bulwarks with so much tension on the lines. But i managed it without having to re rig anything except for the rope coils on the pin rails. The rigging on the bowsprit was also ripped away from the tip of the bowsprit. and that needing fixing. Bigger job than i would have liked. They are never the same after such a repair but I am glad its done. It was also filthy and covered with webs and dust. i will now put it away where it will be safe and protected. Interesting size comparison and note the color. The cheerful is all boxwood. The cedar Winnie really looks good in comparison and its 75% cheaper.
  10. It really looks fantastic. Sharp looking model.
  11. That is looking awesome. Well done. You got a nice run of those planks.
  12. Looking very nice. Nice attention to details.
  13. Looking as it should Ben. Your careful attention to measurements will pay off immensely.
  14. Actually I cant answer those for your particular hull. Its your lining off of the hull that will best determine if you need a drop plank and how many. I would probably go ahead and use one. Most folks think they can bypass the lining off process but its best to do it....I use wide tape and trial and error to find the shape of the drop plank. Your lining off will determine the shape of the garboard. The french curve is only needed if you are going to cut and draw out your planks on a wider sheet. For example the drop plank. There is no real 100% scientific method for figuring the shape of the drop plank. You need shape it and then use a paper template to test its fit and its shape up against the wales. Chuck
  15. They are in the middle of Chinese New Year so you wont get them. Keep in mind that they are a member here and you can PM them. I must also state that CAF no longer sells any kits based on the Ancre monographs. They have stopped production. At this present time, Tom at CAF is working with Ancre to come to an agreement so they can legally offer those kits again. This includes the Chebec Kit you mentioned. This means that the CAF kit of the Chebec can not be built or shown in a log on MSW currently as it is a pirated design. This has been acknowledged by Tom from CAF. Should CAF and Ancre reach an agreement, then those kits that they have worked out a agreement for, will be allowed to be built and logged on MSW. Until then, only those kits other than those based on Ancre monographs are now being offered by CAF for sale. See this topic for more details..
  16. Really nice work on that Syren. Welcome to the forum.
  17. Love the Idea Ben. Cant wait to see how it all turns out. I am sure it will look fantastic. Chuck
  18. That looking great. I usually set the fence once 3/64 from the blade and go to work. I use feather boards to keep the sheet down and against the fence.
  19. That looks very good Bob. You are certainly moving along. I might point out a possible issue however. The sheer at the the stern is a bit high in relation to the top of the transom. I am not sure if your planking run just slopes up too much for the last 5 or 6 inches of the run or if your transom fillers were placed too low. Probably a little bit of both. You might want to tweak both at some point. This will probably affect how your qgalleries will end up as well as the railings atop the quarter deck. Check out the relationship between the two in the photo below. Chuck
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