Chuck

Dont get ahead of yourself. I will be making the ships boats too. But prob a pinnace. It looks better. But thats down the road. They will be stored on spare topmasts in the waist.

They are just spares....I had extra room on the sheets so I figured why not add some. It is looking very good.

No but keep in mind that the contemporary model doesnt match the original draft in many cases. So I went with the original draft for my measurements. In the end it wont matter. It will just look a bit different. You could actually go with either way depending on what you like best.

You guys should try.....to get started with little investment I recommend cutting your bulkheads by hand. If you could complete chapter one without too much trouble then you can absolutely build it. Its no more difficult then building and planking any frigate kit. Its just that this time you will be learning how to plank properly as opposed to the "creative" methods suggested by most kits. AND although most who do a good job planking the lower hull will want to leave it so folks can see it, the Winnie was copper plated and that would be a an option if its the planking that scares you.

Correct

That looks so much better. So well worth the effort. Well done.

That looks good. Best to have all laser reference on the bheads facing forward for the lettered bheads. Its the opposite for the numbered bheads.

The kit is indeed pirated. The plans were stolen from an author who produced them for a ship model magazine in the 1990's. The plans were stolen from the author without permission. No legitimate kit exists from the plans BUT....it is a relatively easy subject to build. The plans are available for sale in copies of the magazine you can find online. I own a set of these plans and they are so easy to use to scratch build it with some simple tools. They were drawn by Peter Danks for Model Boats magazine in 1993. It was the March issue. Much like Model Shipwright magazine, this magazine routinely printed and inclused full sized plans in many issues. These are easy pickins for slimey pirates. Many of the kits these companies pirate are based on such plans froms the 70's, 80's and 90's. I might also add that I have received official permission to use these plans to create a kit in the future if I choose to. Its such an easy and attractive project I might just do that. Although I would use my design for the skeletal and frame parts. Its a little dated. It is a model of a water Hoy.....You should build it from scratch!!!! Chuck

Ken that looks really good. A really nicely planked hull!!!

Remember...Cheerful isnt an all-in-the box kit like the longboat or barge. More scratch parts etc. Not a kit at all. It is a semi scratch project with some fittings and parts lasercut. I really do wish more would try scratch building some of those fittings as well. Everything you need is listed on the website including a list of rope and blocks. But you may need a few odd pieces of wood for some stuff not seen like the false deck and rabbet strip. You can simply buy basswood for this other stuff. Chuck

Looking good so far. Just remember to keep you nails cut short and keep your hands clean while using the cedar. Once you get used to it, its a wonderful wood to use.. Chuck

Im going to leave the panels natural. Just some poly. But as I mentioned in the instructions...a shade very close to the contemporary model can be achieved by using Old masters fruitwood gel stain. No masts or rigging sorry. But those can be added on your own if you like. Its pretty standard stuff. My hull will end up this same color when done. Its what I prefer. But you can use whatever finish you prefer if you build her. I should have my store back open next week sometime. It depends on whether or not the post office has gotten their act together. I may send a few test orders out just to be sure before opening up.

Yes the ports around the panels were touched up before the panelled sheets we glued in place. As far as the other planks....no I waited to trim back those planks and then apply wood filler if need. Then those gun ports were cleaned up and painted at the same time as the inboard bulwarks. Chuck

That looks good. No i did t mess with those. Its the same as on my model.

Beautiful work Tom!!! You have been busy.

Thanks Jeff Its the usual Grumbacher Crimson acrylic paint from a tube. I have a lot of clean up to do and many more coats before its all finished.

Next up it was time to add the second layer of spirketting (the lower two strakes) and the 7/32" wide plank above the ports. I used planks that were the same width but just 1/32" thick. You can even sand them thinner if you like. I also added the aft shell for fixed block. See it forward of the panelling? This should be added at this stage so you can plank the second layer around it. Note how I also added one more 1/32" second layer strake above that 7/32" wide strip. The top edge follows along the bottom of the notches in the deck clamp. I use various width strips because you will need to taper it. It is not a consistent width. Just make sure the top edge is flush with the bottom of the notches in the deck clamp. MOST important....look at the forward end of this additional trip. Notice where it starts in relationship to the first notch in the deck clamp. This is important because it will aid you later when we build the platforms for the gangways. Here is a view of the bow area. Same things apply. Notice where the aft end of the plank ends in this instance. Once again it is even with that first notch. Sand everything smooth and prep the bulwarks for painting. Then paint it red. But dont paint the fancy panels aft. Here is what my model looks like at this stage. I still have to complete the port side....havent started planking that yet.

That is the science museum model of the 74 gun Warrior. Also note the deck beams painted red on each side. I may be doing this on our model. Its a very common feature although in some cases just the knees are painted red.

Very nice. No i just sanded the heck out of it.

That is what the thicker layer of bulwark strakes that are between the gun ports and the deck. They are usually about an inch thicker so when you see a model they stand proud of the strakes above Them . In the contemporary example below they are painted red. But the strakes above them are not. Look at the planking in the waist. DSC01571

Ahhh!!!! You were the only one to catch that!!!! Gold star for you. Yes I made a foolish mistake. I glued the first panel in upside down. And upside down it will remain. Once everything is all done it wont be too terrible. But yes, as soon as I finished it I realized my stupid error. So please be careful when you glue yours in!!! Its not a huge issue. Chuck

No not at all....we wont be building each paneled section. They are laser etched. But you could go that route if you are feeling ambitious. Let me show you what I have been up to. The bulwarks have been planked inboard with their first layer of planks. The first photo below shows the different widths I used. This might be slightly different on your model but you get the idea. The bottom two strakes will have the top edge flush with the bottom of the ports. The three strakes above that between each port were divided up so the top of those was flush with the top of the gun ports. On top of that goes a strip of 7/32" x 3/64" cedar. This takes you to the shear along the waist. I have NOT simulated the seams with pencil because they will all be painted red. The inboard layer of the fixed blocks were added too and the planking carefully cut around them. BUT....wait until after you plank the first layer of the inboard bulwarks to put the aft-most fixed block shell in position. It falls on the deck clamp which is thicker and this particular fixed block sheel should be glued on TOP of the first layer of Bulwark planking. The deck clamps are laser cut for you. The quarter deck clamp is in two lengths. You need to add the forward section first. Line up the front of it with the hance piece. This is important!!! The notches laser cut in the deck clamp are for the quarter deck beams. We want to make sure they are lined up properly on both sides. If done properly your deck beams wont be crooked!!! Dont sand the laser char off the seam between the two pieces. This will screw up the placement of the deck beams. Just butt them together. Once the forward section is glued in place....glue in the aft section. Below. This was left a bit longer on the aft side so you can tweak it to fit your model. Another really important note. You will notice that the bottom of the last notch in the deck clamp is even with the top of the stern windows. This is crucial. If your deck beams are too high it would be trouble. A little lower wouldnt hurt though to be safe. So please please make sure that this is correct. You will need to adjust it if needed back there. In fact you should probably clamp the deck planks in position before you glue them in as a test. Make any needed adjustments before you glue them in. And a reminder again to not sand the forward end of this deck clamp where the two sections butt together. Only sand the aft end to make it fit if need be. Here is a look at the forward deck clamp for the forecastle. Same is true with this one. Position the end along the hance piece in the waist. Then cut the other end at the stem to length which will need to be shaped round later for to make the bowsprit hole nice and neat. ALSO.....pre bend this deck clamp with heat. I used the hair dryer. Dont try and force bend it at the bow because it will certainly break along the notches for the deck beams. The next step is to install the paneled sheets on the planked bulwarks. These will appear in the cabins and captains quarters. They are very thin and laser etched with the panel design. The full panels between each gun port are added first. Then the panels above and below each port can be tweaked for a tight fit. You want to have tight seams here. Try not to have the seams to visible when your done. So clean the laser char from them. Notice the line on the false deck going port to starboard. This indicates where a bulkhead wall will be. Much later in the project of course. Keep this in mins as the forward edge of the first panel must end so you can push the walled bulkead against it later. So examine those notches in the deck clamps. This paneled bulkhead that stretches across the deck will be under the deck beam. Make sure the forward end of this first paneled section will end up under the beam. See how it lines up in the photos below. The double line on the false deck is another paneled bulkhead that separates the captains cabin. Note how it lines up with the notch for the deck beam above it. The cannon is just a prototype for the Winnie that I built. I use it to test how it fits on the model as I work on it. It looks like it will fit perfectly once the deck is planked. A quick note about these panels....I have seen some odd shaped ports on the some of the models being built. Their placements is also sketchy as we have mentioned in many logs. Especially that aft most port and the entrance to the quarter galleries. I mention this because these panels are pretty precise. Although some wiggle room has been designed in them...if you didnt measure your ports properly or if they are in the wrong position, your panels will likely not fit. This is why careful measuring early on is so important. So for that reason....these panels are OPTIONAL. You dont have to use them. Especially if the dont fit properly because of your port placement and gun port shapes. So test them first with a dry fit to see if they will all work. You might need to get a little creative.. And here is a final image of the model today. I am about to add the second layer of spirketting and deck clamps. Then I will paint the buwarks red. But the panels will be left natural. I havent done this yet on the port side so once I am done I will repeat all of this on the port side. Any questions.

That looks very good. Well done.

I am not sure what you mean...

I am not sure how clearly you can see this....but if you look between those frames in the great cabin, you can spot the paneled bulkheads. I have finished planking the bulwarks and am now in the process of paneling the bulwarks on the starboard side. I am not crazy about the white panels on the contemporary model and will leave them natural. I will have an update soon but wanted to post this image for you guys to examine first. Chuck