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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Its actually an optical illusion......its lined up with the top. Because it doesnt run to the edge it just looks like its aligned with the bottom.
  2. It wouldnt have had a name on the transom. It wouldnt have that molding there either. They would have just had a painted frieze.
  3. Tim its great to see your build log. You did a super fine job on Syren and I know this one will be even better. I will follow along. Chuck
  4. That is a very common problem. It is to be expected. You cant blame mfgs for this as a long piece of wood with slots cut tends to want to bend. The easiest way is to create a slot for the keel as mentioned. But in addition, use brackets as a way to clamp the whole thing in position. Once straightened by these and you have planked the wales and above, you can remove the brackets and it will remain straight as an arrow. All POB models should be built this way regardless. Three or four should do the trick.
  5. I think I have a few partial sheets of those black hooks laying around too. If you like them that much I can send them to you at some point. I have to look around in case I threw them out. But I think I have at least one or two partial sheets of hooks somewhere. B.E...next time you order something remind me and I will toss them in the package.
  6. Remember that all group builds and downloads areas are at the top of the page in the drop down.....see below This also includes teh Winnie group and Winnie downloads area. I am posting because some new folks couldnt find the drop down menu at the top of the page. It is also along the right side of the forum as well. Two places to access them.
  7. Unfortunately my suppliers of hooks went belly up!!! The last guy shut down after I placed and paid for a huge order. Needless to say I never got those hooks. I have however just found one stray package of 3mm hooks laying around. I will throw it in with your recent order Glenn. I usually make my own hooks out of brass wire. They look the best when you make them yourself. You can make them any size and length you need that way. But it takes practice and a lot of time. Once all of this virus stuff is over I will look into finding another supplier or figure out how to make them myself.....but that is a long way off.
  8. Man oh Man you did a great job on that. Fantastic. Whats next? How about a that second new build log? I actually like the blue frieze better than the red!!! Chuck
  9. I believe so. I believe it was the exception to have them as actual windows. Most were false. I am not entirely sure why but my guess is probably to make it stronger. I could be wrong. Chuck
  10. That really looks fantastic Ben. It is refreshing to see you make this project unique and different!!! Love it!!!
  11. That looks really good. You should be very happy with that result. The color looks fantastic. If you just do a little light sanding before you use the glue it will be fine. I havent had any issues. You should absolutely apply the WOP though. At least two coats sanding between coats. Wipe off the excess and buff the second coat so it doesnt get glossy. I hope this project has been worthwhile so far and you are enjoying it. Based on your model I would say that you are!!!
  12. Just remember to post pictures sso folks can help you as its really tough to do so without them. You can even use a piece of tape to hold the keel straight as the glue dries. Try and keep the mindset that this is the farthest thing from "assembling" a model kit like a "Lego" set. A kit like this is "built/crafted" rather than assembled. And you will see many different and unique solutions to these typical problems that prop up along the way in the many build logs in the group. I have given you just one possible solution...there are many others. You could also try and straighten the keel with heat...... Chuck
  13. That is to be expected until you glue the keel on the frames. You need to glue the keel on straight. It will flex very easily......This is a very simple.....and predictable occurrence. Just take your time. In fact, a good way to remedy this is to put a shim in the notch of the keel where the curve is to make the fit more snug. Then when placed in position straight the snug fit will hold it straight. These are types of problem solving you will need to think about when building any ship model. Keep posting questions and pictures as folks who have done this before will be able to explain the routine solutions for these challenges as they prop up. Chuck
  14. That looks very good. You are carefully planning and proceeding in a step by step Fashion. Bravo! That is the way to do it and it looks great.
  15. Make sure all of your frames are facing the correct way. Usually that happens when folks have some the wrong direction. Hard to say unless you post pics.
  16. And dont forget to download the stern drawing to help you. Its 8 1/2 x 11 so you can keep it by your side and use it for chapter 3. sterndrawing.pdf
  17. This is where we will discuss all things chapter 3..... There are some complex angles and some folks may not be too familiar with how to frame a qgallery or work on those stern details. Lets talk about the details here so every knows where to find them later.... Dont forget to really examine your plans. There is a lot of info at your finger tips. Dont rely entirely on the instructions or the logs. The plans hold the key. For example....how many of you have started building your q galleries and never thought to check out the plans for this little gem......its all there. Just look them over.
  18. Noah it looks great but just reply to this topic rather than start a new one when you want to update it. Chuck
  19. Hard to say really. I dont think it will make much of a difference. I pretty much just eyeballed it and either would do. Or split the differnce.
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