Chuck

That looking great. I usually set the fence once 3/64 from the blade and go to work. I use feather boards to keep the sheet down and against the fence.

That looks very good Bob. You are certainly moving along. I might point out a possible issue however. The sheer at the the stern is a bit high in relation to the top of the transom. I am not sure if your planking run just slopes up too much for the last 5 or 6 inches of the run or if your transom fillers were placed too low. Probably a little bit of both. You might want to tweak both at some point. This will probably affect how your qgalleries will end up as well as the railings atop the quarter deck. Check out the relationship between the two in the photo below. Chuck

Hopefully tomorrow will be the last day of jury duty. The trial cant drag on much longer.

That looks fantastic. You are almost done.

That looks fine. They are left extra long just in case. Just sand it flush on both sides. use satin and never gloss wipe on poly. Also dont forget to add those filler strips below the counter. You forgot

Here is another tip..... I know this may waste some wood. BUT it is much easier to bend a strip not so close to the end of the strip. You can get a much nicer and smoother bend a bit farther back. Obviously then the excess after bending will need to be trimmed and discarded. But that is OK. It is very hard to bend a strip edge-wise so close to the end of a strip. So this is just another option you might want to try when a tighter bend is required.

I only sometimes glue the edges. If edge gluing will possibly close a gap then yes I will do so. But if there isnt a gap then why bother. I found that if I edge glued every plank, should I not like that plank after positioning it, it will be very hard to remove without also damaging the planks it was edge glued to. I only use PVA for my models....except when planking. When planking I use CA. I place a small drop in the center of each bulkhead to glue each strake into position while making sure it is tight against the plank next to it. I only glue it on if it fits tightly and no gaps are seen after a test fit but sometimes I dont see the small ones and have to remove the plank after and try again. Finding where to place the "top" of the bend and how severe to make the bend is a learning "curve". No pun intended. Its something you will learn to find as you practice this technique. You will get much better with that after a dozen or so attempts. Most times you will likely underbend in the beginning. Then after that you may even over bend. But that is what allows you to learn what shapes are best. I would even go as far to say that you should sacrifice a few strips of wood and simply go nutty with some test bends. Try over bending and try under bending as well. Try moving the "top" of the curve forward or aft just as a test to see how it looks when test fitting. Try a tight bend and then try a more "longer" and subtly bend. Just examining the gaps after trying these different scenarios will help you learn a lot. Its what I do on every model when starting this exercise because once I have a good idea what curve is needed its pretty similar for all of the other strakes.....more or less for the hull shape you are working on. Hope that helps.

Build log discussion here and videos here.....

Yes it is actually....but not of the Pegasus or Swan class. I will be doing one of the Winnie. I think that will be a nice compliment to the POB full hull. I have also since made some improvements in the framing process that will make it even easier to build. I will begin making it as soon as the Winnie full hull is completed. Chuck

That is looking very, very good. 😀 Your careful planning and lining up at this stage will pay off so much later when you get to the later chapters.

That looks super fantastic....well done.

Dont know off-hand but the easiest way to tell is measure from the plans. I think they were around 11/16"

Definitely the quality and with far less detail and accuracy. Having said that it wouldnt be any easier. So i would say something like the badger by caldercraft or even the Alert by Vanguard. Or even the Armed Virginia Sloop by MS. The medway longboat is an actual plank on frame model with floors and top timbers. I would suggest a more traditional pob kit like those i mentioned first....but there were a few guys in the group that actually did a fantastic job with the Medway longboat as their first projects. So it really depends how excited you are about it and if you are a slow and careful builder. For a first build its especially important to take it really slow and take your time. No matter what you choose. Either way, I am willing to help in any way i can while you work on any of them....as well as a whole bunch of other guys on the forum. Chuck

Hello Chris While I think the Logboat kit is doable I would recommend starting with at least one smaller kit just to get started. It is an advanced kit but nearly everything is laser cut for you. But it requires a bit experience with sich fiddly parts and the hull can be a bit delicate. I would recommend you start with one of the smaller Bluejacket kits first which dont take a lot of time to build. Something with a little rigging. Once done I am sure the Longboat would make the perfect second project. Chuck

If it helps you make a decision, the laser etched deck sheet has some issues with the plank shift pattern. There would not be any butt joints in the deck planking between the gratings etc. they werent needed with such a short span and would only make everything weaker. They would have used one length between the fittings down the center of the deck as the distance between fittings was so short. They wouldnt continue the shift pattern at all like its made.

Nice work...cant wait to see it with a finish on it.

Nice start! Keep going.

Also....dont forget to add the sheer strip along the quarterdeck. You should do that before starting to plank.

That looks good. You might have to test various gel stains you can get locally. Look for a similar color to fruitwood. test it out on the back side of the resin

Very nice. They look really good and i know how tricky they are to make.

It looks really good....BUT,,,if you decide to add treenails, you need to go much much smaller. Try a #78 bit. Chuck

Thank you so much. I appreciate the kind words

Thanks guys.....finished the carvings today. All that is left to do now is the fluted columns between the windows and the last two carvings. Hopefully get to that next week. That will finish up chapter 3. Then I have to make all this stuff for you guys which might take a while including writing that 3rd chapter. Thanks again Jack!!! This wouldnt be possible without you!!! Fantastic work!!!

Thank you guys!!! I appreciate the kind words. For everyone..... Its not too late to join in with the group and build your own Winnie. Chuck

No its a bit darker. I posted them for download so go ahead and download them and print them out. Set your printer on the highest print quality. Its hard to say. It looks different in photos depending on the lighting. For example this photo was taken with my Iphone. It looks different than the blue in the photo below it. But its the same model.....taken a few minutes apart. Its probably somewhere between the two in reality. Although my camera takes better pictures. Thats the bottom photo which is what i use for my log photos.