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Everything posted by Chuck
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Keep in mind the molding has been added in this photo. But it shows the cap pretty well. Its pretty consistent almost all the way to the stem but then just before you get to the stem leave a bit of meat just aft of the stem. Hope this helps.
- 221 replies
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- queen anne barge
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They are not glued anywhere. Just pinned into the hull. The pins are glued into place.
- 170 replies
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- medway longboat
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Everytime I look at your model it keeps getting better. You are doing a fantastic job. I love the base. That will amazing when its all done. Well Done!!!
- 231 replies
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Mark Contact Kurt. See if they still have a copy or even possibly a digital record.
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Second planking
Chuck replied to Gremreeper1967's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Actually I would carefully plot the run of your wales first. Then add those. The wales will be a prominent feature and you want the run from bow to stern to be correct. Measure off your plan and mark out the location at intervals along the hull. Then plank above the wales and then start below the wales. If your planking run is off ....especially the wales it will throw off the look of your entire model when completed. Check out the many tutorials on planking in our database as that is a good place to start. Chuck -
Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Chuck replied to Ondras71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
looking great ....you are doing a fantastic job on that model. -
I just wrap the rope around a dowel or the handle of a paint brush. I try and use the smallest amount of white glue...just on the top of the coil. Thats the real trick....try not to handle them too much and certainly less glue is better...watered down white glue. Otherwise the rope gets mashed and you stick to it and pull fuzz up from it. Keep your rope clean. Less handling is key with clean fingers. Then I take one of the hanging coils and wrap it around the top tightly to form the handle....so-to-speak. Wrap it around the coil from the inside. Twice around does the trick.
- 170 replies
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- medway longboat
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That looks excellent Rusty. Your model is coming along!!!
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- winchelsea
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Do you mean the laniards between each pair of deadeyes....if so, those should be .018 light brown. The shrouds are .035 dark brown. Lets see some of the progress. Can you post it in your build log.....that is the best place to ask these questions as well. You should post pictures and ask these question in your build log. It makes it easier to answer that way.
- 421 replies
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- medway longboat
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satin.....do not use the glossy one. the can is usually gold in color. And also....dont forget to sand off that laser char. In your photos it looks like you havent done that at all yet. Chuck
- 217 replies
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Ouch!!! Your carvings are coming along beautifully. You are doing an outstanding job on them. They are going to look terrific on the model.
- 103 replies
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For those reference lines for the port framing and wales....just use a sharp xacto blade and score the lines through the paper sheet with a straight edge and into the wood. Its permanent that way. If they dont show up enough after for you to see them.....use some poly over the cut line and they will be. Dont be afraid to make these cuts real cuts....no reason to be delicate with them. Its actually more precise and thinner than a typical pencil line.
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Nicely done. Just remember to go slow and have fun.
- 217 replies
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- medway longboat
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No need. I already waxed your rope. Its good to go right out of the package. You can add more if you want to but I wouldnt recommend it. Chuck
- 421 replies
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- medway longboat
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That looks great!!!! I have everyone home also.....I hope we dont kill each other. I will just hide in my shop until its over. Chuck
- 221 replies
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Looks great Mike. Exactly as it should at this stage. Well done...
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
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