michael mott
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Everything posted by michael mott
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
michael mott replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Tom the split window panes follow the curve more closely. if you zoom in to the PDF the window remains about 3/4 of (scale) inch from the outside curve. Sorry about the 4 decimal places I forgot to round up with the program basically we are looking at 3/16ths (.187) for the split pane and 3/8ths (.375) for the full opening the difference of a few thou is not worth worrying about. Igf you print out the PDF at 100% then you can see exactly the shapes and sizes. In reality Tom these are quite small pieces. So I hope that I haven't opened too big a can of worms. Michael -
SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
michael mott replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Tom since it is 2 inches across I have rescaled the drawing to your dimension the PDF will show the amount of bevel or angle to the uprights between windows are a scale 3 inches on the outside edges. vinal haven48.pdf I hope this is of use. Michael
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The modelwork looks fantastic, I am having difficulty understanding how the block is used and how it would be handled. can you detail how it works? for me or point me in the right direction to glean the same. Michael
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Lovely shots of the work so far, we are not so green here yet. Michael
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
michael mott replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Tom Your compromise sound great, From a perfectly practical point of view the windows are too small to warrant the split pane I still believe that they are split to accommodate the curve which is quite a sharp one. If they could have used flat panes I think they would have, it is not as if they could only make small panes or that small panes were the only available option. Tom what is the radius of the curve both in real life and on your model. I would gusee that it is no more than 4 feet radius 5 at the absolute outside. vinal haven.pdf This is a cad drawing showing the window pane as a flat and a split using 48 inches as the radius. I do think that the split is correct and that the windows were split and angled. Michael
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Nice work on the planking so far Sherry, Michael
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Wow!!! those handrails are going to be amazing. Thinking about the portholes could you use a punch and stamp them out of brass shim that is .001" or .002" they could be blackened either chemically or by heating them, the way to heat them would be to place them on a plate of thicker metal and heat from below say on an electric hotplate. Michael
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
michael mott replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Tom when you do the pilot window castings you can use the same mould, if you can snap the casting down the center then glue in a strip of evergreen the glass can be from a clear plastic cake cover the kind that have the vac formed shell over them this stuff can be cut easily with scissors and can take a fold to get the right shape for the two sheets. The fold is best done by pressing the plastic over the edge of a clean square edge of a metal rule or similar edge. Here's a pic of what I am trying to describe. Hope this is useful Michael
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Russ thanks for re-posting this log, Your work on this originally was before my joining the forum so I definitely missed it the first time round. I will be following along. The grey paint to produce a muted caulking is a "greyt" idea. Michael
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
michael mott replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Tom Thanks for you kind remarks, and yes this really is a great place, the thing I most like about it is the incredibly positive nature of the people who visit here and the effort taken by so many to share their knowledge and skill. I have learned so much in the past year and a half being a member of this very generous community. I am also looking forward to that beer when you get here The small paddle wheelers that were so instrumental in opening up the northwest have always fascinated my imagination. I had a great book called Stern Wheelers of the Frontier, or something like that. I lent to a chap about 25 years ago and have not seen it since. Such is life. Your comment about using the wood former makes a lot of sense also. I am curious about the top moulding that you mention. One of the great things about styrene is that you can use the scraper type formers that so many here use for creating those shapes in boxwood and pear wood, they work just as well. Michael -
SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
michael mott replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Tom I have done a lot of work with styrene over the years (architectural model building commercially) I would build this up with two small pieces one for the bottom and one for the top. the window posts would be rectangular in cross section with possibly a slight curve on the outside but would be rabbeted on the inside to accept the glass of the windows. With regard to the curve if you use something as thin as .010" and use a couple of layers they can be bend and glued around some cut styrene forms and use a couple of layers. I notice that the bottom of the windows there is a rounded trim, evergreen make a few different half round sections and they bend and glue very easily. If you take a strip of styrene and pull it between your finger you can impart a fairly tight curve. Use the liquid capillary type glue where you hold the parts together first then using a small paint brush add a drop of glue and move along the length. Use this same method when attaching the sheet to a former, the former semicircular shape inside the wheel house cut four the same 2 for the top and two for the bottom. sort of like this. Michael
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That is a lot of fine detail Daniel. Michael
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I like the second one better as well. the finished cutter looks great. Michael
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Gripos-kaiki by Giorgos - FINISHED
michael mott replied to Giorgos's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Giorgos I am enjoying watching this build, what a great start. It is great to see the hand drawn lines and frames. such a peaceful way to get there. Michael -
Walter I think that the model airplane folks carry some very light weight Fiberglass. Michael
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Mark the sander looks like a good tool for a lot of things, I would be very Leary of using it for the decks though.and this is my reason; 1) Wood fibres run along the length in straight grained wood and it seems that you have straight grained wood. 2) no matter how lightly you use the sander it will cut across the grain tearing up the fibres and they will need to be removed in order to get a fine polish to the deck. Unless you have very uneven thicknesses to the planking, Might I humbly suggest a bit of scraping followed by steel wool using both along the grain. I think you would be happier with the results in the "long run" (pun intended). Michael
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John thanks. Germanus, Yes you are thinking as I was with regard to the strap washer, the shape will mirror that of the gammon iron. My thoughts about the finishing are to keep the bright work bright and to keep paint to the absolute minimum, basically the hull outside, all the other woodwork will get a coat of clear varnish, the deck will be oiled with teak oil. When I make another model and it follows an actual boat I will make the model look like the prototype, as for this model (which is essentially my learning exercise in boat building) I feel that I can be close to tradition and also be creative. and draw from many boats mixing older with more modern. Michael
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So you're in the club too Mark! Druxey thanks for the welcome This evening I started on the forestay fitting for the stem. tomorrow I will silver solder the parts together, and drill the holes. I will make a separate keeper plate for the Gammon Iron. Michael
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Janos, I rotate the rope by hand at the outside of the right hand clamp By simply using my fingers I find that I have a lot of control and can wind pretty fast if I want but mostly just roll the index finger accross the top of the brass hex on the right it is longer for that reason. The forestay was the largest rope and so that is why I had to change my clamping method. The rotation was done by rotating the wedged clamp in the same way. I will see if I can set up a small video in the next little while to demonstrate the serving machine in action. Michael
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Germanus I was thinking that this set up would also work independent of the the gammon iron this is a shot from the bow. These are on the smack Betty CK 145. I think that you are also suggesting that a plate on the port side of the stem a a keeper plate for the gammon iron would be good idea. Michael
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Carl, John, Germanus, you comments made me smile this morning, perhaps there is a club called the shroud snippers somewhere in the universe. I have almost finished remaking the shroud and served the dead eye end. All that remains is to make the stem end of the forestay now and I will be able to finally support the mast. I am thinking that a metal fitting that wraps over the top of the stem rather than a series of holes through the top side to side, or the hole fore and aft. Michael
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Stelios we must have been posting at the same time, thank you for your kind remarks. This evening I made one of those critical errors that one wishes they could take back but alas I will have to make one more of these. Yes I cut the shroud instead of the tail when trimming to length....... Arrrrrrrrgh!!! when preparing to serve the dead eye end. Michael
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I cannot see any of the last two sets of pictures just the JPEG number in a box. Michael
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That lathe is brilliant the headstock and tailstock have been made from a couple of engine pistons so it is homemade and would not take much to get it into a usable condition by the looks of it. a bit of a clean up and a motor A 3/8 or 1/2 inch drill chuck and you coul;d be in business soon enough. Michael
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