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CDW
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Love that old flatty. Reminds me of my old high school friend who had a '51 Ford with a flathead V-8. Those were surprisingly strong engines in their time. His Ford would falt out smoke my old '51 Chevy with it's 6 cyl. engine -
Awesome! In my stash, I have the old Sterling kit of the Fokker D.VII in balsa, an RC model, 60" wingspan. It's so old, the vac-u-form plastic has almost disintegrated. It's nothing but a cracked, falling apart, mess. If I ever build the kit, I will certainly need to scratch all the pieces the plastic was intended to represent. I didn't realize until now that particular aircraft as pictured was Udet's plane. Always loved those markings.
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Actually, the decal sheets that come in the box with Wingnut Wings kits are awesome. They are Cartograph decals, made in Italy. Each kit offers a number of different markings for the builder to choose from. This kit has 5 options.
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Final pictures tonight. Incomplete, but a dry fit of the engine compartment with engine inside. This model will finish fairly quickly once the internal details are finished. Rigging may take a little time. I love the colorful finishes of WW1 aircraft.
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I am sorry to say, but a complete deal, extractions and dentures, would run around $3000 and up depending on the number of teeth that needed extraction and the quality of the denture appliances. Sometimes, there are dental clinics, even dental colleges, who offer discount prices. It requires a specialty to sedate the patient. A standard dentist cannot do it. That's one reason it's so much more expensive.
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I thought that may be the acronym as well. Around here, a pulled tooth will set you back $200 and up depending on the complications and the dentist. Sedation dentistry costs a lot more.
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I agree Denis. The Revell line of WW1 aircraft were beautiful. I built the Spad, the DR1, and the Camel long ago. I remember when they came out in the late 60's and built mine then. The D.VII came out way later, so I missed that one. It came out in a period of time when I wasn't buying and building. I often wondered why Revell chose to model these in 1:28 scale rather than the more popular scales of 1:32 or 1:24.
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Beautiful aircraft. Was that strut added in the field? Looks like it would be easy enough to model by adding it from scratch.
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Denis Man, those Albatros decal sheets are awesome! It's hard not to love WW1 aircraft for their colorful markings. Your 1:28 Fokker is not an easy kit to find any more. I think the last time I saw that kit available was around the millennium. Maybe RoG has re released it since then?
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The colors used are call outs found in the instructions. The instruction booklet contains quite a few detailed photos of each of the subject sections of the aircraft. Unfortunately the photos are old WW1 black and white, not color.
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Hi Vossie Thanks for stopping by and sharing your Albatros knowledge with me. I looked for the extra strut in the kit, but none is supplied. The kit provides marking choices for 5 different aircraft: Eduard Ritter Schleich, Jasta 21, Sept. 1917; Ottomar Hagenmuller MFJ 1, late 1917; Otto Kissenberth, Jasts 16b, mid 1917; Fritz Rumey, Jasta 5, March 1917; Ernest Udet, Jasta 37, mid 1917. Right now, I am inclined to choose the Rumey version if for no other reason, I like the colorful markings and paint.
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Thanks OC and JCT, for your support. Just to give an idea of the fit of this kit, here are some photos that show the dry fit of the fuselage halves with the inner bulkheads inside. Once a little thin Tamiya cement is applied to the seam line, the joint will virtually disappear. A very well engineered kit. With all the inner bulkheads, it's a testament to the company's attention to detail for this to fit that well.
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Very sorry to hear that you've been in pain. Hope you get to a dentist and get that problem/s taken care of. They won't get better all by themselves. Untreated, more serious problems can develop.
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Work went slower than I wanted to do the cockpit area, but it was fun and again, a learning experience. While the parts for these Wingnut Wings models are beautifully molded, they are (some) very small and easily broken if handled too heavy. I broke several pieces along the way. At the forward bulkhead, you'll see the gun magazines in aluminum paint, and a fuel tank in brass paint. Added details not included in the kit are switch levers on the instrument panels made from soft fine brass wire; a bulkhead cover on the aft bulkhead made from paper to simulate a canvas cover on the real plane, fuel lines on the fuel tank made from soft brass wire; control cables made from ez line for the control stick to the control surfaces. Next is the engine bay. v
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Thanks JCT. Appreciate that encouragement.
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Two of the best friends I ever had were both sergeant majors, both US Army Airborne. Both were veterans of WW2, Korea, and Vietnam. Lots of wisdom from those two and better friends one could never have.
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Another great looking model for your display cabinet. Beautiful, colorful, paint and markings.
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Wow Jessie, I had to look at that top photo three or four times before I realized it was your model. It looks like the real thing! Beautiful.
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Oh yes, they are perfectly suited for use as a wash. Their composition is what we used for many years prior to today's wealth of pre-made wash products.
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It's their product number 87140. Essentially, it's a turpentine and dark ochre oil mix. (I should have said "burnt umber" mix)
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Thanks James. It's my first Wingnut Wings kit and so far, am very impressed with their attention to detail and quality.
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Looks great OC. How are those masts holding up to the tensioning created by all the rigging? They look nice and straight.
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I had a big crush on Gayle McCormick in 1969. Such a babe, and what a set of pipes! Her voice was ever bit as strong as Janice Jopplin.
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Here is the new technique I tried. Step 1 - Paint "plywood area" with a base coat of Tamiya flat white. Step 2 - Make irregular brush strokes with yellow ochre ink over the primed area. Step 3 - Blend ink (after 10 minutes drying time) using a brush dampened with water and maintain irregular brush strokes. Step 4 - Coat of Tamiya clear yellow. Step 5 - Coat of Tamiya clear orange. Step 6 - Coat of Tamiya clear. In retrospect, next time I will make my ink strokes heavier and a little more profound to show the "grain" a little better. I may have gone a little too heavy on the yellow and orange clear coats. Learning experience.
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