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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Thanks for the nice comments. Yes indeed, it will be added. There are a lot of little details that need to be painted on as well as adding some parts to the wings. Right there on that little plate in the middle of each wing root go 4 turn buckles. Then there are more turn buckles that are added to other parts of the lower and upper wings as well as to the fuselage. The old WW1 era biplanes had lots of small bits and pieces scattered all over each aircraft. Some of the later aircraft, like the Fokker D.VII eliminated a lot of that to make the airframes more aerodynamic and slippery (faster 🙂). -
Preview dry fit of coming steps...quite a few details to be added before the wings and struts can be permanently mounted.
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Here the color coats have been applied over the preshaded wings. Colors are Tamiya, the mauve color being one mixed in the recommended ratio provided in the painting instructions. A trace of paint slipped past my masking of the lower right wing that will require some touch up. 😕 Maybe I should leave it as-is just to add a human touch.
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With WW1 aircraft as well as some early WW2 aircraft, the airframes are covered with fabric then doped and painted. One can see the pronounced effect of the fabric stretched over the airframe where each wing rib is clearly seen by the imprint it makes upon the fabric. When modeling these aircraft, one wants to achieve the illusion of depth in the painted finish to simulate the stretched fabric covering the airframe, particularly between each wing rib. Here you see the molded plastic wing. Over each rib is a "tape" that was used to strengthen the fabric where covered the ribs. To achieve the illusion of depth, each wing rib is preshaded with flat black on each side of each rib, leaving the rib tape it's natural plastic color. Once the color coats are sprayed on, the rib tapes will stand out in light contrast to the surrounding darker paint and giving the painted finish "depth". When modeling and painting a steel ship, this is called oil canning. I use a business card or index card to cover each rib as I gradually preshade each side of each rib. Later in this thread, you'll see the clearly pronounced effect of the preshading on the finish paint.
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It takes a very steady hand to do what you're doing. One slip and the bit goes through. Kudos for taking on that tedious task.
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I should have mentioned earlier...these are home made turn buckles. Twisted micro wire gets inserted and glued into micro brass tubing. Flying wires are seized onto the twisted wire loops. Easy peasy.
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Thanks to both of you for your comments. Yes, the tops of the top and bottom wings will receive the same color combination.
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Worked on the stabilizers tonight with color coats. Not much, really.
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When you watch that video, you'll see the '60's sidewinders must acquire the target at less than 20 degrees from the afterburner, and everything is within visual range... Today, weapons systems can track, lock, and fire upon multiple targets at once, many many miles beyond visual range. Aspect angle is not even a thing anymore compared to what it once was. A modern fighter can lock on and fire upon a target at any angle. Now as to whether or not the F-8 could maneuver sufficiently to gun fight a modern aircraft, that's another story.
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All that hard work is going to produce outstanding results. The photo etch is beautiful.
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Yesterday's weapon systems cannot favorably compare to today's weapons systems, period. It would be a turkey shoot.
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Wasn't that at a time when the USN decided their new aircraft must have two engines rather than one? It made the Super Crusader a non-contestant.
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Around here, those little local household stores have closed their doors, particularly the ones owned by moms and pops. Except for (maybe) the stores we once had called "Radio Shack", I don't ever recall seeing fuse wire for sale in a store in my area.
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Is that the software that comes with the decal-making and paper package, Denis?
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Nice work, OC. Where do you acquire your fuse wire? I love keeping stuff like that fuse wire on hand...it always comes in handy for modeling projects. I often strip all the wires out of old appliances and computers to later strip away the insulation and use the stranded wire inside for similar things as you are doing here.
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Do you have a small compressor and airbrush? If so, that should blow the dust off. if not, like you said, the aerosol cans used for dusting computer components will work. Just be careful not to blow away and lose small components that may not be securely glued down.
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- syren
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I sure do admire the way you took on this difficult project Phil, and the work you have done on it.
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- prince de neufchatel
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Lou, JCT, Denis and Vossie...thanks much for your comments. Much appreciated. It's really weird the way yellow looks black with that old film.
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photo is from Wingnut Wings Here is an actual black and white photo of Hagenmuller with his Albatros D.V The photo shows (to my eye anyway) the field applied loofa sponge mottle, showing up as the darker color. I love the way the artist rendered his drawing as I think it is very aesthetically pleasing, but the actual photo makes me think it looked different in real life. I think in retrospect, I should have toned down the suggested mottle color a little with a drop or two of white paint mixed in with the green. At this point, I may decide to cover the whole fuselage with a highly diluted (1:8 paint to thinner ratio) green tint just to take some of the edge off the mottle.
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I must now hide my face in shame (just kidding)...I have two more copies of this kit, so at some point, I will attempt the "barber pole" paint job. I was hoping to have this model finished by/before April 27th, but I may not have enough time to finish it as it is. The regional event is coming up then. There were so many interesting Albatros paint schemes, I could build a dozen of them and not cover all the schemes I like.
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Yes, that same picture is what gives me a little discomfort as well. However, you need to keep in mind that is not a photo of the actual plane but rather an artist rendering, IE: his interpretation (artistic license) of what the plane looked like. If you look at actual photos (black and white) of planes that had this field applied camo, then take into consideration how the paint was a applied in the field, with loofa sponges, it makes you realize there's no way in the world it would have looked as fine or as pretty as the artist rendering. My instruction sheet has some black and white photos of the actual plane and it does not resemble the artist rendering. This WW1 game is full of speculation in many areas of discussion, particularly when it came to colors.
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Thanks JCT. This photo (courtesy of Fine Scale Modeler) is the scheme I originally had in mind. I thought my decal sheet included the black stripes, but I was mistaken. It did include the stripes for the horizontal stabilizer, but not the fuselage. Maybe it's just me, but the masking required to recreate the fuselage pattern looks like a nightmare to get it right.
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