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tkay11

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  1. tkay11
    Very nice too. Thanks for the info and link! Now for the builds! Tony
  2. tkay11
    Great to hear you're back, Daniel. What's your music career - playing, singing, orchestral, band, sessions, or all of the previous? Is the album on Spotify? With a tab like Siegfried, you haven't sung that role, have you? Though that would be hard to get on an EP, I admit. Tony
  3. tkay11
    Nice mod, Ainars! Glad you found the idea useful and worked on it a bit. Tony
  4. tkay11
    Just to get back to the yards for a moment, BE, I tried the Jacobean stain on some wood a few years ago and didn't achieve the same results as you have. I note the masts are made from oak, but what wood is used for the yards, and do you have any tricks up your sleeve for the staining? Thanks Tony
  5. tkay11
    I gave up with the card rudder and made it and the sternpost from wood. That way the fixing (using brass strips) is at least sound! Tony
  6. tkay11
    Interesting that you reinforced the stem. I should have thought of the risk in advance. I bent mine completely on the card/wood model I'm experimenting with (card frames and hull, everything else in wood). I ended up having to cut the stem near to the hull and make a new one from wood, then nail it to the card remnant along with some epoxy glue. Luckily it will all be painted so you shouldn't be able to tell it's a composite structure when finished. Tony
  7. tkay11
    That must have been fun! Just what modelling is all about. Tony
  8. tkay11
    Wonderful work! Thanks! Tony
  9. tkay11
    Beautiful work. Congratulations. Tony
  10. tkay11
    The most important parts of the blurb on the Ancre site are: " This work of 480 pages hopes to reunite the history and construction of naval vessels while studying the important naval strategies and tactics. The second part is a maritime biography of the vessels and frigates which took part in this conflict while also publishing the original documents as far as possible. "20 frigates and 35 vessels have particular attention paid to them, thus allowing a refreshing look at traditional maritime history. "First part: Ch 1: French naviy at the end of the reign of Louis XV Ch 2: Sartine and the reorganisation of the navy Ch 3: Naval material Ch 4: The dockyards Ch 5: Some major construction engineers Ch 6: Sartine and the planning of the war: the ships Ch 7: Sartine and the planning of the war: the personnel Ch 8: How the war unfolded: 1775-1778 Ch 9: French Naval strategy Ch 20: The naval battles "Second Part: 110-gun, 80-gun, 74-gun ships as well as those with 70, 64 and 50 guns 12-gun and 8-gun frigates "Box of plans sold separately or as optional extra: @ 1:72 in a cloth bound box (€94, or €175 with first part) 3 ships and 1 frigate with sail plans @ 1:144 2 110-gun ships, 3 80-gun ships and 11 74-gun ships 1 70-gun ship, 10 64-gun ships, 2 50-gun ships 10 12-gun frigates and 5 8-gun frigates." Also in the newsletter are details of are sets of plans sold separately for La Renomeé 1:36, La Salamandre 1:36, L'Ambitieux 1:36, L'Amarante at 1:24 I hope this helps Tony
  11. tkay11
    Thanks for the replies. I agree about the frames and internal structures. These I have covered with nitrocellulose and the slight roughness after sanding doesn't matter. The problem is the external sides of the hull planking, which I also varnished. Perhaps I'm not using enough varnish/nitrocellulose. I've been wary of covering the external hull with CA as I wondered about the impact on the acrylic paint I use when I then apply it. However, I'll practice on some scrap -- something I should have done in the first place! Tony
  12. tkay11
    I continue to be amazed at the accuracy of your work. As for me, I still struggle with the sanding of card: it just comes out as a rough mess no matter what grade of carborundum paper I use, so my planking looks a real mess although the fitting is fine. Do you have any advice about better sanding? Tony
  13. tkay11
    In the uk layout paper can be anything from 40gsm upwards. Tony
  14. tkay11
    I don't suppose you're having any difficulty, but just in case you are not aware, there are lots of excellent resources on the web for French nautical terms, especially those made during the 19th century. Best to search through search engines based in France. I have built my own French-English dictionary (a work in progress as you can imagine) as a Word table which can be searched both ways (I also do a fair amount of translation). Let me know by PM if you want links or a copy of the table. A very good printed version from Ancre is David Roberts' VOCABULAIRE DE MARINE bilingue anglais français which is €38, Even though this states it to be for the 18th Century, a good many terms carried on being used. There are in addition some very udeful French dictionaries and encyclopaedias, but these are in French only. Some examples of bilingual dictionaries: A Naval and Military Technical Dictionary (French terms) 1842 Dictionnaire de la Marine Anglaise ROMME 1804 Vocabulaire des termes de marine anglais et francais, en deux parties 1797 Dictionnaire de marine [Chroniques de la Marine du Roi] Glossaire marin ecomaris 2014 Falconer's French-English Dictionary 1780 Glossaire Maritime Wikipedia I apologise if you are already fully aware of all this, but the info might be useful to others as well. Tony
  15. tkay11
    Gluing wood to metal: the best I've found is an epoxy glue such as Araldite. Others use CA (cyanoacrylate). It depends slightly on the fitting, whether it's being placed in a hole in the wood (e.g. eyebolts), being wrapped round a rod (e.g. mast fittings), or laid surface to surface (e.g. rudder hinges). Tony
  16. tkay11
    This is a lovely boat. Well done so far! Tony
  17. tkay11
    It's available in two parts from Gallica in pdf format. As it's in the public domain it's quite legal and free. See http://www.plaisance-pratique.com/spip.php?page=imprimir_articulo&id_article=2863&lang=fr Excellent resource for anyone approaching lateen boats. Thanks, wefalck! Tony
  18. tkay11
    I agree that it's not relevant for your particular model, B.E. It's just that your approach would have been easier for me to use for the particular model I am experimenting on (a card/wood model of the Allège d'Arles at 1:100, and being experimental unlikely to have a build log). You gave me the idea of how to approach a problem with my build of a boat with a different waterline. Your waterline comes very close to the wale, and would require good masking technique to paint it as a straight line if done after the wale was added. In my model, the wale dips below the waterline, making the angles as it crosses the waterline very acute. I am approaching this by painting the wales in white together with the hull below and hoping to mask it by cutting the masking tape with the acute angle, then painting the hull below the waterline black: This requires two separate strips of the tape, both at the acute angle. This should work, but for me it would have been a far simpler and more elegant solution to paint the waterline before placing the wales. That way, painting the wales afterwards would have made it a cinch. Thanks again for your continuing wealth of ideas! Tony
  19. tkay11
    You've answered a problem for me, B.E. : adding the wale after painting the waterline. Thanks! Tony
  20. tkay11
    Great to see Javier's techniques being used, and for another lovely Mediterranean fishing boat. I'm practising doing the same kind of thing using an Ancre plan set for the Allège d'Arles (although, since this is practice, I won't provide a build log). I'll be following your log with much interest. Just a few questions, just for my own interest and improvement of my practice attempts: Is this really 1:48 scale as Chris has suggested)? Did you make the scuttles using separate pieces of (?) 0.5mm wide strips separated by the scuttle width, or are these separately drilled into one continuous strip? Did you cut back the first stem, keel and sternpost flat with the planks, or did you cut a groove for the second set? Thanks Tony
  21. tkay11
    Exactly the kind of boat I like. Nice build! You must be really satisfied to complete it after such an investment of time. I spent a similar time on my first build and enjoyed it thoroughly. Tony
  22. tkay11
    Well, I just gotta add my own welcome from Kentish Town, now that the North of the UK has started filling the room! Looking forward to your builds! Tony
  23. tkay11
    I think the blade you may be thinking of is the one I have for the Proxxon mini drill. These are made by a variety of manufacturers and easily available on Amazon and eBay. They are for any drill that can hold a shaft of 3.15mm (e.g. Dremel), and are 22mm in diameter. They are not at all expensive. The smallest one I have for the Proxxon table saw is 0.5mm kerf, (0.02in) which I obtained from MicroMark in the US, together with an adapter for the Proxxon. I hope that helps. Tony
  24. tkay11
    That's very nice of you, Lynn. Thanks a lot. The Triton cross section is an excellent way to start working from plans alone, especially as there are so many great builds of it available for you to study and think which way you would like to approach it. It was a very good learning process for me. I look forward to your builds. Tony
  25. tkay11
    Many thanks, Mark and Edward, VTHokiEE and Carl for your very nice comments and likes. They certainly make me feel as though I'm not as ham-fisted as I often feel! Tony

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