tkay11
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Everything posted by tkay11
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Well, I just gotta add my own welcome from Kentish Town, now that the North of the UK has started filling the room! Looking forward to your builds! Tony
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I think the blade you may be thinking of is the one I have for the Proxxon mini drill. These are made by a variety of manufacturers and easily available on Amazon and eBay. They are for any drill that can hold a shaft of 3.15mm (e.g. Dremel), and are 22mm in diameter. They are not at all expensive. The smallest one I have for the Proxxon table saw is 0.5mm kerf, (0.02in) which I obtained from MicroMark in the US, together with an adapter for the Proxxon. I hope that helps. Tony- 132 replies
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- triton cross-section
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That's very nice of you, Lynn. Thanks a lot. The Triton cross section is an excellent way to start working from plans alone, especially as there are so many great builds of it available for you to study and think which way you would like to approach it. It was a very good learning process for me. I look forward to your builds. Tony
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Many thanks, Mark and Edward, VTHokiEE and Carl for your very nice comments and likes. They certainly make me feel as though I'm not as ham-fisted as I often feel! Tony
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Thanks again to all those who commented on this build and signalled their likes. I've decided not to go any further as my struggles with making binnacle have not been very fruitful. In any case, there is nothing to suggest that it carried one - it was more the challenge for myself. So I have marked the build as FINISHED! I am still in the throes of exploring another build, experimenting with a mixture of card and wood on a 1:100 model of the Ancre Allège d'Arles, while also looking in detail at the Ancre Rochefort. I'll post a new log once I've decided on the final boat, and maybe I'll post my experiments with the card/wood composite plank-on-bulkhead Allège should I think it of interest. Thanks again to all of you who have given me such marvellous support, donated their experience and helped! Tony
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I very much appreciate the extent to which you detail the stages and methods of your build. Unfortunately I forgot to ask about the construction of the deck and planking which looks very good. Are the planks made of card, cut into strips and glued on a base, then painted? Or are they wood strips? Also, how did you make the gratings? Thanks, Tony
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Further to Mark's comments, for me their value lies in: The very large number of plans showing different aspects of the construction, fitting and rigging, in sequence The detailed history of each of the boats concerned The detail and precision provided by of most of the authors (notably Jean Boudriot and Gérard Delacroix) The commentary and general discussion of each aspect of the construction In view of the years of detailed preparation, draughtsmanship, experience and research that goes into these publications, I would regard the cost as quite fair. Each monograph can involve you in years of learning and building if you have a mind to it - even for those of Ancre's authors who are a little more slipshod in editing, proof-reading and correction of mistakes in their plans. Tony
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You might also want to consider The Story of Sail: Illustrated with 1000 Scale Drawings, by Veres Lazlo & Richard Woodman, published by Chatham Publishing in 1999, which you can buy at low cost. This provides detailed history, but almost entirely of the evolution, type, overall plans and rigging of sailing ships. It has no detail of fittings, deck layouts etc. I bought mine for £4 from Amazon. Then there's an older book, The Lore of Ships by Tre Tryckare in 1963 which covers all types of ship, including sail. Also can be bought very cheaply. This is very nice indeed as it goes into all sorts of detail of the various types of rigging and fitting and is excellently illustrated. In fact it depends more on the illustrations than on text. I have an old university library copy which I bought from AbeBooks for £2 or so. Tony
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That's really useful, Jaager. I've often wondered as I have seen little difference between them in practice. Tony
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Just out of curiosity, what's the difference in action between woodworker's white PVA and the yellow aliphatic type? (It's a long time since my organic chemistry days). Tony
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Very helpful as well as interesting. Thanks. Tony
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Sorry, Chuck, I don't understand. How do you use a drill to cut a treenail? I've seen lots of methods but I don't recall seeing that one. Excuse my ignorance! Just as a matter of interest, I've used a Byrnes drawplate with bamboo skewers and have been happy with that. Tony
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Nice job! Sometimes stealers are just necessary: otherwise builders of real ships would not have used them. Tony
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That's for those of us who still have cars with spare wheels. Then there's carrying the spare wheel into our flat and finding space. All the same, a nice idea. I don't intend to buy the cans. Tony
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Is there a trick to making deadeyes?
tkay11 replied to Schooners's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I just love the continual flow of ideas that reflect the fact that thinking through a problem makes up most of the fun of model building. This one is a real treat. I liked the ProKCon joke. Tony -
Thanks, Kurt. That's valuable knowledge and very helpful. Any advice about the compressor and paints that go best with this setup? I've been thinking about airbrushing for a while, but have been put off by the expense. I agree about the lack of fine line painting not being an obstacle: I was only mentioning in case it's a problem for others. Tony
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I believe the Badger kit with the aerosol can referred to is ok but for larger areas. Feedback on Amazon suggests it's hard to use for fine lines. This may be all you want if you want to spray, for example, everything below the waterline or other large areas. Some people on YouTube have adapted it to be used with compressors, so it's worth a look. Tony
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It must be very satisfying to achieve this after you set yourself this task. Seeing it makes me feel what I imagine to be your pleasure in this work. Thanks for sharing. It would be nice if you could add details about your work methods, techniques and how you overcome problems you have come across. Tony
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Just as a matter of interest, what CAD software are you using? Tony
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Could you tag all the 'Rochefort' topics with 'Ancre' as well? Cabrapente has a particularly good build. Thanks Tony
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You might also get some ideas from the Dutch herring boats of the period. I think I read somewhere that they were very similar to the fifies (perhaps in the book 'Inshore Craft: Traditional Working Vessels of the British Isles' by Basil Greenhill, but I may be mistaken. They operated in the same area of the North Sea. Ab Hoving is an expert on Dutch vessels so you might pm him, and Kees de Mol has a nice model of a Dutch Herring Lugger which shows a wheel positioned similarly to that on the Lady Eleanor. Model Shipwright no 118 had a modeller's draught and plans of the Reaper . However, I don't think you'll find details of the steering mechanism there. Tony
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Great to see you're into the mods, B.E. I was interested in your comments about the look of the deck, so I had a look in Edgar March's book on sailing trawlers but there's not much there on decking. I know the fifie was a drifter rather than a trawler, but if you don't have the book and if it helps, the following is what is said about smack design: "The covering board of 12 by 2½ in. oak was laid over the heads of the frames, stanchions fitted through the mortices and bolted to shelf or frames, the deck planks were pitch pine, 5 by 2½ in, with a margin plank varying in width according to the beam of the hull. Planks had to be joggled into the covering board when the "snape" or diagonal cut across the width left a nib-end less than 2in wide, a sliver edge being impossible to caulk." Also in case you've not already seen it, there's the website on the restoration of the Swan which shows pictures of the deck, but that is in its modern re-incarnation so probably is of no use to you. The one picture of it in its original state doesn't seem sharp enough to see the deck planking details. The book on the Swan may give you more if you need it. Tony
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Don't forget the Taig/Peatol lathes. They're excellent for model makers, cheaper than the Sherline, have a huge range of accessories, lots of instructional videos on the web, and a very nice idea for a tailstock. They are also available quite often on eBay. I bought mine in the UK with a huge range of accessories some years ago for £400 which at the time would have been a little over US$550. I have the tool rest for wood turning, so although I have the perfectly good Proxxon wood lathe, I now only use that for the longer pieces such as masts. Tony
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Phosphoric acid or rust conversion gels are said to blacken steel. I've never tried it myself, though. Tony
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It sounds simpler than building up the gunports again. Unless, of course, you have a mind to practicing skills. Tony
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