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tkay11

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Everything posted by tkay11

  1. tkay11
    My apologies, Gérard! I had forgotten these were independently sold! Tony
  2. tkay11
    Ancre publishes the rigging and sail plan for €18. It's written in French, but I don't think that's an issue with understanding the plans. You can find it at http://gerard.delacroix.pagesperso-orange.fr/Chaloupe_greement/plaquette.htm. The plans were being given away free with the Rochefort monograph for a while, but I think that has now stopped. Tony
  3. tkay11
    I've been puzzling where to place the two gun tackle bolts aft of the rearmost gun on the cross-section. The plans for the gun tackles clearly show that the bolts be placed at 3.17mm and 4.35mm respectively (at 1:48) from the edge of the gunport, but the aftmost gun bracket placing means there's only a 1.65mm space between it and the gun port. The bracket itself is 2mm wide. I suspect that the bolts would therefore have to be placed on the other side of the bracket, a bit wider than indicated by the plans, but I thought I'd better check with the more knowledgeable here before drilling for either bracket or tackle bolts and rings. Thanks as usual for any help! Tony
  4. tkay11
    OK. Just found the plans for the wood version as well as the other concept drawings. Thanks, Michael! Tony
  5. tkay11
    Are there plans available for Michael's tool? I do see how it could be done, but plans would be a great help! Or are they on another thread that I've forgotten? Tony
  6. tkay11
    There is no problem with seeing any of the models that were in the Science Museum. All you have to do is email them with a list of the models or model types that you would like to see and they will send a spreadsheet with the details of everything you asked for including the places where they are stored and their full provenance. You then send them an email specifying the places you'd like to visit and they will arrange an appointment for you to visit that place. I have now done that with their storage units in Blythe Road and at Chatham (as documented in several previous posts). What's more, when you're there, the curators will spend the entire time with you should you wish to discuss the models. In general they give a 2 hour time slot but you can request more. You are free to photograph as much as you like. The huge benefit of this is that you can be as close to the model as you wish although they don't really like you touching the models. So there's no glass screens through which you have to photograph. I find this an amazing service. What's more it's entirely free, and that includes free entry to Chatham should you find models stored there that you want to see. Tony
  7. tkay11
    I did use Hubert's idea a lot for my Sherbourne, but then I settled in the end for making the seizings by hand. I found the CA could sometimes crack in the middle of a seizing after a day or so as well as leaving a glossy or speckly appearance. I also found that making the seizings properly was in the end just as quick as using the CA method. That said, however, I did find that making very small thimbles of various sizes by wrapping thread round a drill bit and covering with CA was a very useful way of doing it and I'll probably continue to use the method for that purpose. You can see examples at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/335-hmc-sherbourne-1763-by-tkay11-finished-–-caldercraft-–-scale-164-a-novice’s-caldercraft-sherbourne/?p=420952 Tony
  8. tkay11
    One thing you might consider for future builds is that quite a few don't put the stem, keel and sternpost on until the first (or even the second) planking is done (at least in this kind of double-planked kit). That way you avoid damaging those parts, the sanding of the bearding line is easier, and you can figure out the rabbet more easily. I too didn't learn that until after the fact! I don't know the extent to which the Lady Nelson builds are similar to the Sherbournes, but the approaches to the transom on the Sherbournes was very variable. I'm not sure that the curvature needs to be the same across the whole width, but which ever way you do it bevelling is going to be part of it. Tony
  9. tkay11
    You're absolutely right. It's unavoidable -- even if you didn't post a log. But it's also highly enjoyable. One of the problems is that some decisions have to be made early on in the build as changes can't be made later. Belaying points, mainstay holes, windlass, pumps, gratings, cannon rigging, horses and transoms are among the many cases in point. The other thing is that not only are you learning from a set of plans, but you also raise questions in your log to which answers are supplied by others and which you will probably find hard to ignore. You have already been driven to having a peek at what some books (e.g. Petersson) may have to say about aspects which are left very unclear in the plans. Then you'll probably find yourself unsatisfied with the rough look of particular aspects of the kit (e.g. the cannon, the pumps, the tiller, the rudder, the transom) and find out how they may have looked in reality. All this information still allows you to do it 'your way' in terms of the decisions you make about which way you want to go given your skills, tools, and level of accuracy you wish to maintain, as well as which of the original varieties of cutter mods you wish to make. You're finding out exactly what so many others have found (e.g. myself) when starting a kit -- notably that you don't want only to follow the kit instructions without further exploration and questioning. One reason why so many start a kit and then give up is that they don't think that questioning may help them through their build, and that is the beauty of this forum -- everybody wants to help each other, as well as to learn from each other. And this learning is part of the fun. Tony
  10. tkay11
    I posted pictures of my visit to the NMM at Chatham to see particular models of cutters. You can see these at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10370-18th-and-early-19th-century-cutter-models/?p=310186 It's worth going through the build logs of cutters on this site as most of them will provide interesting discussions on a variety of historical details of cutters, including the positioning of the companionway doors, bells, and so on. There are also others who have posted pictures of contemporary models in American museums. By the way, it's worth noting that even the books have mistakes -- Petersson, for example, has a couple that were discussed, so the discussions really are useful. It allows you to make your own informed decisions, since quite often there are multiple answers for the multiple configurations. Tony
  11. tkay11
    I don't know the Lady Nelson model and I haven't looked in detail at any of the other build logs for the Lady Nelson, but looking at the pictures it looks like the companionway is the aft-most structure on the deck. Tony
  12. tkay11
    Sure. I would never use balsa again. Tony
  13. tkay11
    Very nice progress. I don't really think the over-engineering is the issue since the filler blocks play a useful function if you want to mimic the planking that would have been laid on frames. The bulkheads don't represent the frames, so what some people do is to fill the spaces and then draw lines where the frames would have lain so that the planking can be laid according to the frame positions. That may be overkill rather than the over-engineering that might be seen from a structural perspective. In relation to gouging out the deck below the hatches, I found that matt black paint couldn't be distinguished from matt black space with the hatches in place. Tony
  14. tkay11
    Gregor did a nice re-make of the stem to drill the extra holes. I never bothered as it was beyond my skill level at the time. As for thimbles, you can make them in a number of ways. A lot of people just use micro brass tubing. I made some of mine that way, and others from winding thread around a rod and then fixing it with CA. But then I didn't bother to shape them exactly as the originals. Tony
  15. tkay11
    Really nice explanations of your process and build. Are you going to stick to the three holes at the top of the stem for the forestay as per the kit advice, or put in 5 as it would have been? If you have Petersson already, you'll have seen this, but I'm raising it now as it's the perfect time to drill those two extra holes. Tony
  16. tkay11
    Very nice, Rob. I particularly like the colour scheme. Congratulations! I'm looking forward to the next build. Tony
  17. tkay11
    It's a nice ship to build, Jay, and you're off to a great start. If you haven't done so already, it's worthwhile to have a good look at the logs of the Lady Nelsons, Sherbournes, Cheerfuls and other cutters which are very similar and give lots of good suggestions for historical accuracy, rigging details or modifications you may want to make. I don't think it's a rite of passage to produce the build log. I think the idea is more to give people the opportunity to post their own progress and ideas -- firstly to help others who want to do the build, and secondly to discuss problems or questions they find as they arise during the build. The great usefulness of each log is that no two builds of the same ship are ever identical (just as no two ships of the same type were ever completely identical) and there is a huge variety of approaches to making the same pieces (even if you try to stick rigidly to the suggested approaches in the kit and use only their supplied pieces), so there's plenty of leeway to come up with your own way of doing things. Everyone also brings their own particular previous history, experience and tools to their builds. So each build is also unique in that additional way. There are approaches from almost every walk of life -- including carpenters, lawyers, engineers, dentists, doctors, archaeologists, anthropologists, readers of marine history, bus drivers, bankers, sailors, and 12 year old students. It's these aspects that can make build logs so interesting, especially when the builder gives great detail about their methods of construction and reasons for their choices. What is not so interesting is to see a build log just with pictures of final results, where the comments are just full of 'oohs' and 'aahs' and 'likes'. I look forward to seeing your own approach, expecially given your own skills and experience you bring to it. Tony
  18. tkay11
    You have a great build going, so I wouldn't worry about being hesitant. I would imagine most people on the forum appreciate the detail of each step so they can see the techniques and tools used. This helps a great deal of us not only learn how to build, but also build up an armoury of ideas so we can tailor our own techniques to the resources, tools and time we have in our own models. Seeing the finished piece certainly allows 'oohs' and 'aahs' of praise, but you'll probably find greater comment and discussion if you don't worry about having it totally correct before posting. I've certainly learned a lot more as a result of being detailed in my logs about each step and each mistake. Tony
  19. tkay11
    and very nice it is too! That must have been very satisfying to make. Tony
  20. tkay11
    There are quite a few references in the build logs that were rescued from the crash to the fact that the cross-section was designed to give beginners a feel for planking and framing. Amongst these there are a number of differences from the full build in order to make it all simpler. There are some specific statements about the changes, but I've forgotten what they are. I am sure you'll be getting specific information from others pretty shortly! As for me, I've been making my cross-section even simpler by following the existing plans in the most basic way, not making the limber strakes accurately, leaving out treenails, not rounding off the top of the hatch etc., but I really admire people such as yourself who try to make this project as interesting as possible, and as perfect as possible -- I learn a lot from such builds. Tony
  21. tkay11
    Thanks, Gabe. The main motivation (apart from developing skills in making plank-on-frame models) was really to learn for myself and give anyone who's interested some understanding of how these ships were built. Almost nobody in my circle of acquaintances has much idea that there's even a hobby devoted to this kind of thing, let alone full builds, so they're quite intrigued, and, as I had guessed, simply cannot see the blunders that are glaringly obvious to my own eye -- and that's exactly as it should be. Tony
  22. tkay11
    Here's another thought. David Antscherl specifically says that the training tackle eyebolt was only put in after 1779. The HMS Triton cross-section we are building is of the 1773 ship (I think). So unless it was re-fitted after 1779 I suppose it didn't have any training tackle eyebolts at all! In which case I don't have to put them in, and I can discard that version of the plan (GunDetailLayout.pdf) that's placed with the full build drawings. Well, that was an interesting discussion! Tony
  23. tkay11
    Thanks, Anguirel. It's interesting to see Lavery's take on it. David Antscherl provided an illustration which may help others who want to position the bolt for the training tackle: His description is as follows: Tony
  24. tkay11
    As usual, I continue to enjoy your log and the way you approach the build. It is very interesting how different model building can be from real ship building. I came across the restoration of the Pilgrim Brixham sailing trawler, a Cutter-rigged ketch, at http://pilgrimofbrixham.co.uk/history/ In the video of the build on that page it is quite clear that there's a contrast between the visible imperfections on the internal fittings, and the eventual smoothness of the external and visible finish. Also, on the deck and hull planking, I really can't see the treenails in the still photos. Of course, this is a modern restoration, but it made me think about the conventions of the modelling we do. I suppose this is by way of saying that your build is still great even though you worry about the small imperfections such as gaps that have to be filled or colour mismatches fixed. In real life gaps were filled and paint did a great job. Tony
  25. tkay11
    Thanks, Pete. Actually, I had been hoping the thread centred on the outlying training tackle. The training tackle bolts are quite separate from the port tackle bolts (according to David Antscherl's Fully Framed Model Vol II, which I should have checked earlier at he discusses them clearly), so at least they co-existed. As to whether the tackle co-existed it'll be interesting to see what the experts say. I would have thought it might get in the way whilst the guns were in normal use and only used whilst training through an arc. As you say, interesting discussion! Tony

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