EJ_L
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Everything posted by EJ_L
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Those falconets came out looking great! I love all the little details you put on them. They are going to look right at home aboard your ship. -
Those stanchions look great and you did an excellent job on the rudder also. I will second getting the foam to hold your hull. I use a couple things for mine. First I used a rotating bench vise so I could roll the ship to whatever position I needed for planking. Once the planking was complete I built a temporary stand to hold her upright. When I needed to work on a side I used foam that I had carved out an indention to hold the ship. This allowed her to lay on a side without damaging anything. Very important with canon barrels sticking out. It also helps to prevent the hull from getting scratched up.
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- phantom
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Down at my family's fishing camp in Louisiana, it is common to see barrels lashed on a boats deck with either chains or rope. Often just depends on what is available to the boat owner at the time. As thereare dozens of uses for metal barrels on a boat I think they are a great addition.
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I have seen several discussions on tree nails on here and I have begun to lean to the side of are they really worth it at the correct scale? To make the tree nails of the appropriate size for the scale of the ships, unless you are modeling in 1:48 or larger, the nails would be so small that they would barely be seen. This brings up the question of is it worth spending the time to model something that would not be seen or do you enlarge the nails but then have out of scale nails covering the model and putting thousands of oversized dots on the ship? Personally I have gone back and forth and even in my current build I modeled the ones on the decks but not the hull. After looking at it and looking at other ships and reading the debates about it I now lean towards not modeling them on any ship that the scale is too small to easily show them. A good point was made of why ruin a model that you will spend lots of hours and effort into making sure everything is built correctly with oversized dots covering the decks and hull? We all know the nails would be there and the focus should be on the rest of the model.
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Looking good! Those seats are fantastic and all that time and effort will make your ship look outstanding.
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- greek bireme
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Welcome to MSW! As Chris said, you should be able to find some answers in another build log on here. If you get the chance would love to see pictures of your build. Start up a log and share as I'm sure others would enjoy it as well.
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Good start on those shrouds. Tying all those knots can become very monotonous and frustrating but as one of the most recognizable features of a tall ship they do make a great sight when complete.
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Never to late to learn something new. It seems that almost everyday I learn a new tip or trick to help me out. Some I use, some I don't but always learning. You are going to have a couple of nice ships sitting side by side. Getting a new model always gets me motivated to build!
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- scharnhorst
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Filling and sanding, always a tedious and rather boring part of the build but a necessary one. Congrats on hitting 100 hours!
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- riva aquarama
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I do the same with the repetitive stuff. I'm also building some of the other misc. details that need to be done but are just one piece instead of 50. Speaking of the ships boat, that is coming up fast on the to-do list. I am going to attempt to build it completely from scratch. Never done that before so I am looking forward to the experience. Worst case, I still have the solid hull one that came with the kit.
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- la couronne
- corel
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Nice job on your first strakes. That first run is always the toughest and scariest as it sets the alignment for the rest of the planking. Since you are running your strakes as one long piece I agree that you don't need the fillers. They are mostly for when you are running individual planks that need more support at the ends of the joints. With one long piece, the entire strake supports itself and does allow for you to obtain that nice curve around the bow using just the bulkheads. Looking forward to the next update!
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Started work on the gun ports. Roughing out the wood and hanging the hinges so I can blacken them. Also I will be making the eye bolts for the pull ropes as a big knot through a hole in the lid just does not look very good. 52 of them for this ship in three different woods depending upon location. All but four of them in the open position. This will take a little while.
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- la couronne
- corel
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I am actually reading those books myself right now. About midway through the second. I did not think about listening to them while I build. That is a great idea. May have to give that a try.
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Model ship kits are no different than any other type of model kit. By using the parts and directions provided you will end up with a nice model. However, if a person takes time to research the model to learn about how it should look in real life, how it was built and find those missing details a kit can become much more than just a nice model. This will mean either modifying or replacing many of the kit provided parts with custom built pieces and reading between the steps on the instructions. That is where this site is a goldmine. If the effort is taken to search through and read many of the build logs not only for the ship you are building but others of similar style you can learn ways to vastly improve the model. Of course this is all relative to both a persons experience and skills with modeling and there is absolutely nothing wrong with building a basic kit especially the first time out. I have stated before in other posts that I do not compare myself to others but to myself. With every model I have done since I was 7 years old I always try to make the next one a little better. As long as I am progressing in what I build I am happy as ultimately I model for my own enjoyment and that is, in my opinion, what this hobby is about.
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- sea witch
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Again, excellent work! The rust on your anchor chain is incredible and I love the cargo wrappings. They add another interesting detail to a ship full of interesting details.
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Thank you for the compliment Frank and welcome to the build! Had to take a short break as my chair gave up the ghost Friday morning. Bought a new one today and took some time to clean uo the work area. Tomorrow I will start to build the gun port lids and some of the other detail pieces that go on the hull. I will post some progress pics as I get things done.
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- la couronne
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Tools and Supplies for My "Shipyard"
EJ_L replied to daveward's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I actually have and use both types of lighting and magnification. I have the magnifier and light on a swivel that is mounted to my table that I use for my primary illumination. I used the magnifier for years but I admit that it often got in my way and made working difficult. Recently I purchased the optivisor with the LED attachment and that has been a great decision. I still use the swivel light to light up my workspace but the visor allows me the freedom to work easier and provide extra lighting directly at the part I'm working on. I have found that you can never have too much light or too many options for magnifying for small parts. -
Looking real nice Frank! Good recovery on the planking wouldn't have known there was a whoops if you had not said anything. Your painting looks excellent too. Looking forward to seeing more as you progress.
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Ok, I think I see what they are wanting now. I would glue your stem piece on before the forecastle block for alignment purposes. It looks like the point of the forecastle should be even or just back from the front edge of your stem. The flat portion is to allow room for the fish and the bowsprit to have a place to mount into. You will need to shape the block at the point to slope back into the hull as shown on the drawing. As to the side to side just split the overhang evenly and then you can sand down the sides to match the hull's contours.
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I believe the forecastle is raised slightly so my guess is that it may be larger to fit the space as the bulwarks widen outward the higher up they go. Is the forecastle made as a solid block of wood or multiple pieces? If solid then once glued in place you probably have to sand it on an angle to match the contours of the hull. They probably gave you the oversized piece to allow for the multiple angles that the hull takes. If it is multiple pieces then you might look ahead and see if the instructions show how the other parts fit together. With wood it is always best to be oversized and have to cut/sand down then be too small to start with.
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Thanks Don! The griffin and rider are very shiny with the gold that was put on them. It does make photos harder to take at least with my phone. I will take some better ones with my good camera probably this weekend. That is one of the big reasons why I am not satisfied with the cast pieces that were provided. Once we move into the new house and my new shipyard is up and going I am going to focus some more time into practicing my carving skills. That is one of the big pieces I would really like to replace. That shelving unit keeps me in good "spirits" while I'm working on my ships. Especially while I'm reading and doing research on them.
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- la couronne
- corel
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With the extreme curvatures found in these areas the wood will take a good amount of bending to get it to the correct shape. The fillers help by giving you more attachment points to help hold the planks in shape. Another reason for this depends on how you are planking. Since planks did not run the full length of the ship in one piece there are two ways to model the individual boards. The first is to make each strake one piece and cut in the ends of each plank with a knife later. The more common and accurate practice is to cut each plank to a scaled dimension and install the one at a time. The fillers at the bow and stern help with this as these are the two areas where you will get odd lengths that will need the extra support. All that being said, it is possible to plank a hull without the blocks as that is the actual way a hull would be planked. If you can get planks to bend to the right shape they should just lay down nice and neat with no excess pressure making the fillers unnecessary.
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