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AntonyUK

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  1. AntonyUK
    Hi Bob. It's shame on the manufactures that put such rubbish in our kits that we pay lots of money for. There are good manufactures out there that realy do care and they try there hardest to maintain the quality of there kits. One good reason to get into scratch building. Keep up the good work. Regards Antony.
  2. AntonyUK
    Hi. Just a little on were I have researched the information and construction methods. Some very intresting reading here. http://anthropology.tamu.edu/papers/Sasaki-MA2008.pdf page 38 and 40 show the basic method of hull construction. https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ULh8BgAAQBAJ&pg=PA37&lpg=PA37&dq=korean+ancient+ship+building&source=bl&ots=6k05sVn3Ms&sig=fQa031fB0XcZHWltlczovosclAM&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiq-7WxsLTLAhXBWxQKHbLbBHwQ6AEIPjAK#v=onepage&q=korean%20ancient%20ship%20building&f=false A drawing from this web page https://namu.wiki/w/거북선Showing a cross section of the hull. http://www.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_03_01.jsp This web page is in Korean.. but you can see there are a lot of differences between replica ships and models. The timbers below are the bow timbers that were pined to the front of the ship for ramming protection. Rough carved for appearance. Bow knees in place. This is just guess work But it is known that the Koreans used knees in there ship building. Stern Knees. A mast step. The mast on the Turtle Ship could be lowered down. and there must been some type of box to hold the mast base in place. again this is guess work. Step only placed and not yet fixed. This drawing shows the mast in the lowers position. But other information shows the mast pivoting from the hull base. Well that is about it for this post.. Regards Antony.
  3. AntonyUK
    Hi Bob. Got my seat booked. Just need the pop corn. Have seen this kit in a local shop. Looks nice. Regards Antony.
  4. AntonyUK
    Hi Gerhard. Agh found it. I was looking for Cures of the dark seas. Thanks. Antony.
  5. AntonyUK
    Hi. Thanks for the likes.. Have done a bit of digging on Google but I am unable to find anything on the Film listed below in Dave (Davyboy) Has anyone seen this and was it called "The curse of the dark seas" Regards Antony.
  6. AntonyUK
    Hi. Made a good start with the information I have.. A drawing of the Hold base. No keel on this ship .Flat bottom with thick planking. The planking laid. I've used the studding and bolts to squeeze the planks with wedges. Base with cross sections ready to build up. Bow and stern planking. The bow will have extra bulks of timber on the bows for ramming the enemy ships. Made a jig to hold the planking in place while building. basic but that all that's needed. Another view of the jig. showing the planking positions. The jig is made of plylite. Will start to make the planks for the hull sides tomorrow. These are described as "L" shaped. Will post a photo of the making.. Regards Antony.
  7. AntonyUK
    Hi Belco. Yea there are lots of information on Google. But not much with enough details to make a model. Even the replicas are so different and constructed in all sorts of ways. I have a bunch of friends in Korea that have assisted me in my search. I have done some drawings using Illustrater that look like the one in the Korean war museum. Started to cut the timbers for the base. Bow and Stern. The planking will require some sort of frame to hold the empty hull in shape help with the planking. Have done some drawings for this temporary frame. Thanks for looking in. Regards Antony.
  8. AntonyUK
    Hi. I have just been pointed to a Exelent PDF file. http://anthropology.tamu.edu/papers/Sasaki-MA2008.pdf It's just what I wanted. Regards Antony.
  9. AntonyUK
    Hi Dave. I have a blu-ray Roaring Currents. A really interesting film. I've not seen the TV program ..Will keep my eyes open for that. Regards Antony.
  10. AntonyUK
    Hi. A question regarding how did the Koreans fix the planking on there ships. I know they drove long pieces of Oak dowel into the top of the plank into the next plank below. But the planking has no support.. I.E. ribs or frames. The fixings into the side of the plank are big nails made of Oak and they are clearly visible in all models and replicas of the Turtle ship. And the Question is:- What do they drive into?? One sketch of a ship wreck drawing shows timbers going across one side of the hull to the other side. Could the nails be driven into thease ? That's a lot of timbers if so. Also some ship wreck drawings have metal brackets attached into the planks and to the timbers noted above. I would love to have some input on this.. Even the theory.. Will post the links and pictures mentioned above when I get computer access. Regards Antony.
  11. AntonyUK
    Hi Gerhard. Nice find. No I have not seen that information before most usefull. Thank you Daniel. Regards Antony.
  12. AntonyUK
    Hi. Its time for a new project.. Been looking at this for sometime now. I have made several trips to Korea and visited the war Museum in Seoul. This was my first encounter of this ship. There is a kit of this ship made by www.youngmodeler.com at 1/64 scale There are also a few on E-Bay by the same manufacture. There are no drawing of this ship and there are a lot of replicas made but most of them are very different. Very confusing. There are a few referrals to the Turtle ship here on MSW. including a Kit build by Wim500. Also lots of nice photos by Grimber. I intend to Build this @ 1/32 scale so the model will be big enough to include a bit of detail. Rule 1... No paint.. Rule 2.. Follow as much as possible the method of ship building as used in Korea. Lots of HELP wanted here. The main timber I will be using will be English Cherry as I have a vast stock of it. Other timber will be used to give contrast and looks. Most of the Timber is very thick on this ship. And the hull planking is pined downwards into the plank below.(very long tree nails) Will post a link to the information later. I am at the stage of just starting the build planning. and laying the hull base (No keel on this ship). Will be Building this in the Shed as its the only space big enough for the model and me. That's it for now. Thanks for looking in. Regards Antony.
  13. AntonyUK
    Hi Phill. Of to a good start. Good advice about keeping the keel and bulkheads square. Check the fairing with a strip of timber. On all areas of the ship. Following along with you on this one. Regards Antony.
  14. AntonyUK
    Hi Bob. Thanks for the heads up on the deck plywood. Just checked mine and it's good quality. There will be a delay in me starting my Bounty as we are having a new kitchen and it's not good having models around.. So start will be in June. Must say your planking look nice Regards Antony.
  15. AntonyUK
    Hi. I do the same as Jaager. Mix a little of the fine dust with the PVA glue to a soft putty. Works a treat. Regards Antony.
  16. AntonyUK
    Hi Bryanc. You just could not help yourself.. He has gone and bashed it.. There will be no stoping you now. I don't know if I could possabley build a kit without bashing it here and there.. But think of all the extra work you can add I must say.. It's looking good. Regards Antony.
  17. AntonyUK
    Hi Kmart. I think it look good. Honest Nice to see you still plodding on. Regards Antony.
  18. AntonyUK
    Hi Andy. I gotta go with Clare's advice. Will only be noticeable when viewed fron the Bows or Stern of the ship. Did you have a build log ? Regards Antony.
  19. AntonyUK
    Hi DJ.Bobo. I have been following in the background and I must say this is one very nice model. Well done. Regards Antony.
  20. AntonyUK
    Hi Bob. As they say from down here. "proper job" Making excellent progress on the model. And I have to second Lawrence in his comments. Regards Antony.
  21. AntonyUK
    Hi Bryanc. Nice to see you back on the forums. And new model as well. There are a few of the victory bow builds on the forum and well worth looking at to get the hints and tips. I will be following this one. Regards Antony.
  22. AntonyUK
    Hi Bob. Making excellent progress with some really good mods. The difference between the gratings does justifiy replacing them. Outstanding build. Keep up the good work. Regards Antony.
  23. AntonyUK
    Hi Jerry. A fantastic build. Love the jig's/building board. Following along with eyes wide open... Regards Antony.
  24. AntonyUK
    Hi Sean. Wow fast progress with this kit. "The first obvious challenge is that the length of the planking strips 2x2 for the first 6 rows and then 2x3 for the remainder are not long enough to run from bow to stern. So the first decision is where to join the strips........Mmmmmmm ..... pretty disappointing." Yes I think there should be some mention of this in the instructions.. Make the joints on a bulkhead near the end of the plank length then the next one at the other end of the boat on a bulkhead. If the boat is planked inside you can add extra timber on the side of the bulkhead where the join is. But your bulkheads look quite thick so you might not need to add the extra timber. And yes steaming the strips before fitting and leting then dry is the best method. I use elastic bands for holding the more difficult strips in place. Regards Antony.
  25. AntonyUK
    Hi Sean. Fantastic work and I do like people that follow the instructions.. As you have done keeping the frames square is Very important and you will be rewarded with a model that looks right. Very nice work. Especially on the curving of the deck. Regards Antony.

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