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AntonyUK

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Everything posted by AntonyUK

  1. Hi Michael. That will work just fine. Resist trying to sand too hard.. Take your time. Regards Antony.
  2. Hi Wim. I spent many years in Korea. I loved the place and people. I saw a replica of this ship near Seoul. Always wanted to model this... But could not find any plans/ drawings. You are making excellent progress on this model. Regards Antony.
  3. Hi Phil. Have you looked at the database of artical's in the MSW database.. This one might give you a good idea on where to start. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf I use a sanding block that's 250mm long and 15mm wide for doing my models.( homemade for the job.. Just a block of flat wood with vees cut into the ends and a wedge to jam the sandpaper into place.) Take your time on this part of the build.. Regards Antony.
  4. Hi Jim. Yes they are the locknut and set screws you will need to adjust. Start with the slide in the centre. Then tighten the middle screw and nip the locking nut. BUT NOT TO TIGHT. Test the full travel of the bed. And redo if nessary. Then tighten the outer two screws and nip the lock nuts. Retest the travel on the bed.. As I said this can be time consuming but it's worth the effort as this mill is brill for modeling work and mine has served me well. Regards Antony.
  5. Hi Bluto. I had the same issues as you are having. I adjusted mine by loosening the nuts then tightening the middle set screw very small amounts with the table in the centre position to start with. Then adjust the outer two. Lock up and test.repeat as nessary. I had to do this some dozen times untill I got it just right.then adjust the full length of the bed travel. Takes time to do it correctly ..but it's worth it... Regards Antony.
  6. Hi kmart. Yes any thing that works for you is good.. And yes I use a lot of bands while building my ships. The planking is Exelent .. And NO stealers . You have been reading up on how to plank.. Keep up the good work. Regards Antony.
  7. Hi Nenad. Yes I use Illustrater . Started with solid works but the learning curve was to steep for me and my brain and my time. Yes there are a lot of shortcuts to be used and finding them is not easy ..But it's A very nice CAD drawing tool. You can save your files as a .pdf and then you can post it on MSW. Regards Antony.
  8. Hi E&T. Outstanding support for the build. Laser cutters cut nice and square .. Lots of nice bulkheads. Makes for a nice shape ans accuracy. Regards Antony.
  9. Hi Maturin. Nice start to your build.. I have this kit as yet not started. Just waiting for the right time and space to appear on my work bench. There are a few build logs of the Bounty. They all contain lots of usefull ideas and mods to help the build. Adding the internal details will enhance the model and your enjoyment. Regards Antony.
  10. Hi Kmart. Sorry to here of your loss. The panart kit is a nice one. And yes Jeff is a skilled builder and his cross section is a masterpiece. Will follow you along with this one.. Regards Antony.
  11. Hi Ulises. Just catching up on your build log.. That's one nice ship and you are turning a pile of wood into a masterpiece. Very nice work throughout the build. After reading all the 353 posts I must say that the help and advice is spot on.. Nice to see that people do still care. Looking forward to your next post. Regards Antony.
  12. Hi Michael. Have a look at this build .. They have had the same issues that you are having. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6360-royal-louis-1780-by-ulises-victoria-mamoli-scale-190-french-vessel-120-cannons-started-in-april-10-2014/?hl=%2Broyal+%2Blouis+%2Bmamoli Please LOOK at post 133 as this is super Important to you at this stage. Regards Antony.
  13. Hi Micharl. Sounds like your keel is twisted from your first statement. .? Sort this out first.. Or you will have a ship that will not go together too well. I had this issue with one of my first kits.. Keel and frames were twisted. My solution was to cut 4 softwood spacers the same width as the gap at the keel on every bulkheade/frame gap. A ship that had 48mm of twist then had less than 1mm.. Worked for me. This also stiffened the hull and made it easer to work with. As far as Faring the frames.. I use a length's of strip wood and pin it to the Bow. Then pin it at the stern. You can then see what angle each bulkhead/frame needs to be. Then I take my Dremmel with a sanding drum on and follow the contours. Checking with a strip of wood that you are still getting the correct angle. There are lots of build logs that show this process. All the best. Antony.
  14. Hi Brett. These are the best Tutorals that I have seen. I have a hard copy of this in my folder I refer to every time I need to do planking. The template I printed onto OHP acetate. Bends nicely and lasts for years and you can see what you are doing. First one is the Tutoral. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining%20Off%20your%20hull%20for%20planking.pdf Second one is the Template. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingfan.pdf As fare as the length of the planks.. It makes it harder to use short lengths But the finish will be Soo much nicer. You could always fill between the bulkheads/frames then you can use random lengths as you build as the ends of the planks will have something to support them. Regards Antony.
  15. Hello Lee. Stunning workmanship. You never cease to amaze me. Your skills are outstanding. WOW says it all. Regards Antony.
  16. Hi Bryan. Just catching up on your build.. Wow a fast mover.. You have done soooo much. And very nicely too. All the extra bits you are adding are looking real good and will make the finished model a real masterpiece. Regards Antony.
  17. Hi. Mabe this is close enough to what you want. Most tea clippers were built with the same lines and the hull shape would be simular. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mantua_thermopylae.html This is a nice kit that would require a little skill to build. The rigging on this type of ship would be quite a challenge to a beginner. Mabe you could pick one up ready made on the dreaded EBay. lots of the cuttysark on EBay with a little modification it could be turned into the Wynaud. Regards Antony.
  18. Hello. And welcome to MSW. I have never used a commercial building Jig or board. Always used a flat piece of MDF or other sheet timber I have lieing around. Plan the size and make supports for the bow timbers and stern timbers. Keep EVERY THING Square.. Unless your ship has a built in twist.LOL. If you are using the board in the house I would felt the bottom to stop scratching the boss's tables. Some ships do not have a flat keel.. Take this into consideration when building the board or clamp. Hint.. Always replace the boat back into the board .. It stops unessery twist developing. Regards Antony.
  19. Hello Lee. Only one word to describe your skill... Stunning. Every time I look at your ship my jaw sits on my chest. It will be interesting to see how you blacken the brass nail heads. Regards Antony.
  20. Hi Paul. Thank you for your nice comments. I always keep my saw blades sharp and feed the wood into the saw at a slow and constant speed. Also keeping the wood pressed against the guide. If the wood is on show I will pull a sharp edge across the length. This makes it almost planed finish. As far as the grates.. There are some brilliant tutorial on MSW that cover making gratings. Most of what I have done I have learnt from this Forum. And welcome to MSW by the way. Regards Antony.
  21. Hi Brian. You have made a nice start on the build. I have this kit to build but need to compleat other projects first. Will watch as you build.. Regards Antony.
  22. Hi. News.. Here in the UK there is a documentary on this ship. Hunt for the artic ghost ship. On Tuesday 4th Aug C4 @ 9:00 pm. Sorry for spamming your post. Regards Antony.
  23. Hi Ted. Making amazing headway. Nice choice of timber colours. Continuing to watch this build develop and grow. Regards Antony.
  24. Hi Michael. Very nice start. Will grab my chair and copa tea and follow along with this one. Interesting to see you have the bulkheads spaced to the gun ports. Nice one. Regards Antony.
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