gjdale

Some more progress.  The 'dunny' has now been completed along with the windlass.  I've been playing about with the windlass on and off for some time, but decided it was time to finish it off.  In the photos both pieces are in roughly their final position.  Going by the available photos, the 'dunny' seemed to have been moved from time to time, but this is the position it was in when the 'Pritt' went to the Roper River to land the missionaries, which is the period I want.  It must have been pretty inconvenient when sailing with the wind aft, as it stuck up higher than the level of the main boom.
 
John
 

 

 

 

 

Well, now, I guess it's time for some updating!
 
The workshop is now re-floored and operating.  The ECB is on the table and have added the garboard strake and the next strake above.  Moving along very slowly, but progress is occurring!
 
Since the weather was so nice, I took her down to the shore for some pictures in her "natural habitat".
 

 
Starboard side - this is the side that will be partly planked (the port side will be fully planked). 
 

 
Bow view
 

 

 
Stern view
 

 
View from above.
 

Back to building after having out of town guest for a couple of days. I finished up the plating of the hull with the two tone copper foil. After checking around and discussing with my wife who is a silversmith the best solution for now is to leave the copper foil alone and let time do it's work. The big concern is that any polish or chemical treatment may cause the edges to lift and create a bigger problem. Since I still have plenty to do on this build time is not an issue.
 
I moved onto the rudder and wanted it to be movable so I used a stronger brass strip (.015" x .60") than what was provided in the kit. I also used 1/32" rod and 1/16" tubing to be the hinge elements of the pintles and gudgons. On critical point is that when soldering make every attempt to make sure the tube and rod are centered when soldered in place for a good functioning five point hinge.
Here is a sequence of pictures that are self explanatory; but if questions please ask. One other thing I discovered is that the pre-stain conditioner is great for adhesion of the copper when dried and sanded. I did not include the plating of the rudder which is pretty straight forward.
 









 
Next onto the chain iron as long as I am in the stern area. 
 

March 2016

Fig-13 - Setting plate - Two plates were made to fit the FMJ - the setting plate, made from brass with 6 studs, 3 on each side of the centre line, precisely placed to match the 3 holes in each of the aluminium frames patterns. The second plate is made from aluminium as a soldering table, but more on that later.  Both plates slide under the fingers of the FMJ and are held in place with 2 knurled screws at the top corners.

 

Fig-14 - Rivet Head Maker - (RHM) - The requirement was to produce something resembling a rivet head of an exact size and precisely placed on the inside of angle brass section of 1.5mm X 1.5mm.  The tool consists of two wheels, one with a series of spikes around it’s out side edge, the second with a matching set of fine holes, one for each spike.  These are provided with a table and stop, to allow the brass angle to be precisely placed and pass between the 2 wheels, which are set so that each spike will depress a dimple of brass into it’s respective hole as the wheels are rotated.  The tool will produce more than 600 dimples - rivet heads - a minute.  Several sets of wheels were made to match the different spacing of the rivet heads, to accommodate both the wide spacing for the angled brass - Frame - and the finer spacing for the ships shell plating. A further set of wheels - rollers - were also made for the production of Bulb Iron, but more on that later. All parts were made micro adjustable.

 

The difficult part was to find a way of powering both wheels that also allowed them to be fully adjustable, to control the depth of the pin in the hole - the hight of the rivet head.  This was not possible with a geared drive connecting the two wheels, as that is only possible when the gears are fully engaged, otherwise the backlash when not fully engaged - in adjusting the depth - will not mesh the pins with the holes.  I overcame this by using rubber ‘O’ rings as the drive between the two wheels, because of the softness of the rubber.  This allows for infinite adjustment of the depth of the pin/size of rivet head, while the pin and hole, once set will always be correct relative to each other, no matter how much adjustment is made between the two.  The different thickness of the brass between the wheels is a factor in having them adjustable.

 

Fig-15 - The angle brass is first run through the RHM so that both inside faces are provided with a full set of rivet heads.  These are then annealed before being bent to exactly match the out side edge of a frame pattern.

 

Fig-16 - The frame and pattern is then placed on one side of the setting plate in the FMJ, and the fingers moved in so that the brass angle sits in the slot provided on each of the finger, that are then locked in place with the knurled locking screws.  The pattern is then removed, turned over and provided with the second brass angle frame around it’s out side edge, so that the other side of the frames can also be set and the fingers locked in place.

 

More details showing the construction of these machines can be found on my website:

< http://www.wworkshop.net/Falls_of_Clyde/Menu.html >

—————

Hi All,
 
I have almost finished the rework.  I estimate it to total about 50-hours...  That being said, I am still very happy with the decision and have corrected some previous mistakes.
 
While I still need to work the hawse pieces, I needed a change of pace and elected to start the transom.  This section is very tricky since its a true puzzle and everything is inter-related. 
 

 
Above are the six main pieces to the transom.  You will note that I put the size of each piece on the template.  There are two pieces, the wing and deck transoms that require 4" added thickness because these pieces require an arc shape to them.  The Wing transom will set the shape of the stern and the deck transom will curve with that deck.  At this stage, I am not worried about fine tuning the pieces,  this is not an excuse to be careless or sloppy, you just want to leave a little meet on the bone and trim it later...
 
Here are a few other views - these pieces are dry fit and will be aligned with all sorts of jigs and glued spacers when the time comes.  They still need to be fine tuned.  The wing transom needs more arch. 
 
You will note that I have left the templates on as well.  Ed recommends this in his book, Naiad, and I think its important.  If you lose your way with a piece, your puzzle wont fit together.  The templates keep you honest.  All of these pieces need to tenon into the sides of the aft fashion pieces, which will be tricky to say the least...
 

 

 
In the below photo, note how the aft portion of each piece ends at the rabbet of the stern piece.  I envision the planks nesting tightly into that rabbet.  This will all need to be faired once glued in and well supported.  I have to remind myself to not get carried away with fairing at this stage...
 

 

Hi again!
First as ever, many thanks for your kind Likes !
As you can see in the former post, there`s light in the cookhouse.
 
First I soldered emailled wire to 2 SMD-Led`s, the Led`s are only around 2 x 1 mm small.
 
 
As a next step I used 4 pieces of 0,5 mm brass rod, cut them to length with circa 5mm overlength, stuck them into a piece of balsa wood, and placed a short piece of 4 x 3 mm brass tube in the middle. All was soldered together, and then the overlength filed away.

 
On the bottom side I stuck a piece of 3 x 2 mm plastic tube into the brass, this works as an isolation for the wires.

 
A first test, there`s a light (over at the frankenstein place..............)

 
The glass cylinders are simple tubes of acrylic glass tubes. They came from medical inhalers, wich I need for the cure of COPD.

 
In the end I soldered end caps of 0,1 mm brass sheet to the lamps, grinded all to shape, and glued the lamps to corner stands. As glue I used glueing silicone, this takes a bit more time for drying, but fixes the lamps best to their stands.

 
One of the lamps mounted into the house

 
The lamps need some power, as we know, so I decided to build a battery box beneath the cookhouse. This box took me more than only one attempt, until I had it finished.
This was the first version

 
Some working hinges were to make, the box can be opened for change of batterys

 
The final version of the box.

 
This wall-mounted lever keeps the box closed

 
This lever on the box works as a switch, left position turns lights on.


 
The cookhouse with its roof. The roof was made from the same materials as the walls.

 
Regards, hope you enjoy that.........
Gerhard
 
 
 
 
 
 

Very nicely done Mark. You've got a very nice looking rear end!

Fabulous Glenn!

Glad to hear you're back on speaking terms!
 
Changing your rigging line is one upgrade you will definitely not regret. It will save you a lot of heartache and your model will look better for it. I can't recommend Chuck's Syren line highly enough.

Glad to hear you're back on speaking terms!
 
Changing your rigging line is one upgrade you will definitely not regret. It will save you a lot of heartache and your model will look better for it. I can't recommend Chuck's Syren line highly enough.

This looks to be a fascinating project - think I'll pull up a chair and follow along.

Thank you Sirs,
  now back to the front, doing some catting :-)   First mistreated some wood ...     ... rounding things up ...     ... and prepared for blackening.     And there it already hangs ...     ... depper darling, deeper ...     ... ohohoh hihihigher ...                 ... and all on top ...         I hope the next updates will get more exciting again :-)   XXXDAn

Update
 
I`m still waiting for mini toothwheels to arrive, in order to build the cargo winches in brass, as good as possible to scale.
In the meantime I`m checking with the lifeboats.  A raw  protptype was already made (as shown in an earlier pos of this thread). Probably I will make resin cast boats after that prototype in series production. For weather protection I made a "cavas" cover out of wood, that will be fitted on the sample boat when making the silicone mold. Around the sheerline there will b a strong fender rope
 
A few weeks ago I found a boat (in scale 1:144) from a british model web shop which is a good alternative for using, but that`s a rather expensive solution to go. Also compared with the scale figures that boat seems to be a wee bit to small, although my first made prototype is only 1mm longer and 0,5 mm wider, I think it looks more seaworthy....
I will let the impressions work on my mind to find the best solution
 
Nils
 

This is a wonderful detailed looking cast boat
both figures are 1:144, the male of course is slightly taller, that`s natural...
 
 

 
 

 
 

I have the feeling that this boat is a bit too small ( although it`s nominal in scale)
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
This is the first built prototype to suit the figures in scale, it looks a more rough water resistant boat
 
 

 
the clinkering is a bit wider, but I wanted it to be seen afterwards, when the boats are in their davits

I've made some progress this last week or two. I've been working on the deck framing and the lodging knees. And my errors in the hull framing have become painfully obvious. I think I'll be paying for those mistakes later when I try and fair the hull before planking. The hull clearly has a bit of a twist to it. Not single lodging knee is like another, Lots of hand carving going on. Having lots of fun and been planning my eventual turn to the dark side(scratch building) or light depending on your viewpoint I suppose. Dreaming of power tools and frankly bigger pieces of wood, all these bits are hard to handle with my extra large hands.

Hello,
I appreciate your visits and positive comments.
Also thanks for the likes given.  
  Here's a little progress:  

Today I finished up the bulwark details.  All of the cleats and the pinrails have been added.  I also made the catheads.  These warrant special note.  These were made in two pieces.  They were shaped from a 3/16" x 3/16" strip.  Care was taken to shape the inboard leg of the cathead to fit snug against the bulwarks.  It had to be shaped to fit around the waterway and spirketting.   The top portion had its two sheaves simulated in the usual manner.   
 

 
The cap rail was then notched out to accept the cathead and the two sections of the catheads were fit together ahead of time.   After the notched cap rail was ready...the two parts were tweaked until they fit well.  Only then were they glued together and painted.
 

 

 
Hopefully sometime this week I will begin putting the gun carriages together or maybe make the belaying pins.  I dont need that many belaying pins for this model so why not make them from scratch as well.
 
Chuck
 
 

Freehand?  Thy hands are steadier than a rock, good sir.  I salute you.  :im Not Worthy:   If it were me, everything but the wales would end up black.   

Hi All,
 
After placing the first two strakes it was time to line off the hull. The hull
was divided into two bands of 9. Each band was laid out using tick strips
and a planking fan as Chuck described in his log. I also added the second
layer to the wales now. I will wait to paint them until the hull is fully planked.
 
Here is the first belt fully planked.
 

 

 
 
 

Thanks for the encouragement Grant. I've just passed the 2-year mark working on this, so I'm clearly comfortable taking breaks. But I do love working on it and there is no danger of my not finishing it eventually.
 
I went back to the workshop yesterday and made nice. I talked gently and said encouraging words. This ship is more like a cat than a dog. She was indifferent - unspooling another Flemish on me as soon as I touched it. But she also yielded a bit. All 6 cannons are rigged and resting comfortably.
 
Today, despite the unseasonably warm local forecast, I'm looking forward to starting in on the anchors and catheads, and making what looks like fast progress when I finally get to affix some of the many finished deck details that have been sitting in a container since I fashioned them months ago.

Hello once more..............
As I wrote above, here comes the first part of the cookhouse. This will take longer than the things before, it was the largest part I made for the SMS Danzig until now. As KOCH 1895 wrote, the ship had no deckhouses exept the cookhouse, see the yellow marked part at the page from "Beiträge zur Geschichte"

First thing to do was the stove. As I mentioned in the first post this thread, there are no plans to get, so I had to build the stove first, and then the house around it. Plans for stoves are to find at the danish Rigsarkivet https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/billedviser?epid=4782656#189070,31896806,around 130 different plans there! This includes also distillery ovens, for the preparing of "fresh" water out of sea (salt) water.
 
Started with a sheet of 0,3mm brass, marked the different cutouts, and drilled a lot of holes

 
The recangular cutouts were filed to their final size, and the different parts soldered together

 
The basic body of the stove, the plans from the Rigsarkivet above, not shure what plan I took...............
(Sorry for my short brains !)

 
Different doors are soldered to the body


 
Baseplate and stands added

 
and finally all painted with black Revell paint, the paint was still wet as I took the picture, so it shines too much

 
Some pots and cans added, they are made from wood, the cans from boxwood, the rectangular pots from balsa. The handles are bended pieces from 0,3mm copper wire.

 
Regards & thanx for watching
Gerhard, have a nice day!
 
 
 
 
 

And we start (again)
 

 
Saturday 27 Feb 2016
Ripped a couple pieces of castello boxwood to about 20" (1:64) on the table saw then milled down to 18"
Sliced of strips from it to about 20" and then milled them to 18" square.
 
This is the stock material for the 4 keel pieces
The foremost section of the keel with the boxing scarph joint for the lower stem post needed to have the strip cut made wider, about 40", as it stands taller forward than aft.
 
Using a longer piece than necessary, using a sharp soft (HB) pencil lead, I marked of the length, depth and angle of the scarph on the top side of the stern most keel section.  The depth of the scarph joint was carefully cut on the scroll saw and using a freshly sharpened chisel I attempted to cut it out in very small slices.  I seem to have a huge problem keeping my chisel perpendicular to the stock to get a clean square cut.
 
To remedy this... until I master my chiselling skills... I cut off the bad scarph joint (scrap) and remarked the stock.  I clamped it on the line on my flat faced woodworking vise.  Using a fine toothed saw I cut the depth perpendicular to the stock.  Using the same saw I cut the length somewhat parallel to the surface of the vise.  Using my chisel I cleaned it up and then sanded.  I repeated this on the mating piece and this resulted in a good joint.  I did not invent this method... I saw it somewhere in a build log on the forum. Thank you!
 

 
Sunday 28 Feb 2016
I used this same method to cut down the 40" height of the foremost keel section aft of the boxing scarph joint to 18".  The scarph joint shape was transfer to the stock using carbon paper.  The carbon paper was place on top of transparent (see through) graph paper.  The carbon side faced up to the graph paper.  My template was placed over top of the graph paper.  I traced the outlined of the scarph joint shape with my pencil which transferred it to the underside of the graph paper.   The transparent paper was placed on the stock and the carbon line (on the underside against the stock) was traced once again with my pencil resulting in the line being transferred to the stock.  This is much more work than cutting and gluing but I am trying to preserve my templates (and eliminate any need to spend more money on another copy)
 
This shape was roughly cut out on the scroll saw and then cleaned up with a drum sander attached to the drill press.  The boxing scarph joint has yet to be cut.
 

 

 
The stern post mortise hole was drilled out and cleaned up as best as I can manage for now.
 

 
Black crepe paper (representing the waterproofing tar soaked felt) was cut oversize and glued to one outer set of joints (toe/heel).  When this dried the two pieces were glued and clamped.  This paper has yet to be trimmed back to the keel surface.
 

 

 

In the same way I am running out of ways to express what an amazing artist you are regarding this build. your attention to detail reminds me of the philosopher Ruskin who admonished that( I am paraphrasing here) "just because you cannot see a detail does not mean that you should neglect to do the same quality as that seen"
 
Michael

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 149 – Ship’s Boats 5
 
As longboat 1 was reaching completion, work progressed on #2.  In the first picture the port side is being planked.
 

 
The starboard side will be left unplanked, in frame.  At this size I am not able to layout the planking strakes or even use a planking gauge as described in earlier posts and in the posts on the POB model.  Instead, I install a full-width plank then trim its edges by eye so the planking lines will be fair and the last plank will just fit below the wale.  The next picture shows the first step in that trimming of an installed plank.
 

 
A paring chisel is being used to taper the plank.  This is followed by final fairing of the plank with a barette file as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Both these pictures show the half frames installed on the deadwood on the opposite side.  All the frames on that side will be left exposed.  The last picture shows the last plank below the wale being glued to the frames on the port side.
 

 
The boat is now ready for removal from the plug for final internal work.  In the next picture that has been done and the keelson is being glued to the frame floors.
 

 
In the next picture one of the bilge ceiling members is being glued to the frames.
 

 
The next picture shows the panel of grating below the stern seats and the supporting clamp for the seats on the near side. 
 

 
This will be the view of the framing and internals of this boat when it is mounted on the skid beams.  The open pear framing has been given an initial cleanup but more work is needed to remove glue remnants and polish up the woodwork.  Still to be added are seats and the mast step.  At this stage the port side of the boat was ready for painting.
 
The next picture shows both longboats positioned on the skid beams.
 

 
Only some minor work remains to be done on these before they can be tied down.  In the meantime work has been progressing on the first of the two cutters.
 
Ed

Phill,
 
Bad luck on the breakage - we've all been there. Take your time and sneak up on it. Sometimes it takes two or three "cycles" of soaking, bending, drying, to achieve the aim. When you've painted the cabin, just try to scrape off a little paint where you glue things. It doesn't have to be an exact science, but if you can get a wood to wood bond, it will be a lot stronger.

Fabulous Glenn!