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Baker

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  1. Hopefully this info will help you further, The lengths and widths of the planks varied during this period More info can be found in my log of the Golden Hind (approximately from post 50) Following the information found the planks were 4.2 to 5.2 meters long The average thickness is 7 cm The width varied between 36 and 48 cm The widest planks were located at the bottom of the hull Greetings, Patrick
  2. Thanks for yhe nice words. thanks. And yes, building these 2 canons will be a challenge.
  3. Hello everyone, Update. Grooves are made in the channels. marking with a pencil I think (hope) that they are big enough. To bring some life into the model varied personal items will be added. "Bags" of crew members, small barrels, a crate with material for each cannon and a crate with ammunition for the present cannons. Gunpowder was not stored near the cannons for safety reasons. An example how it could be Bags are of wood and tissue. Barrels of wood and rope Crates an varied ammunition Cannons (3) are placed. I still have to make 1 cannon. This will be a different type, Current state Thanks for following
  4. Greetings from Belgium, and good luck with your first build
  5. Thanks We have a large garden. Nice, but sometimes with a little too much maintenance work before I glue the cannons on the rearcastle. It is probably best that first make grooves in the channels where the deadeyes come. The intention is to get something like this. As is quite the case with this build, I first had absolutely no idea about what, how much and where to place them. So first i have to find out what we are going to do. On average there are 6, 7 or 8 deadeyes for the main mast. At the beginning of the 17th century there were apparently already rules to determine the length of the masts. But i obtained confusing results with this method. I continue with a sketch by Mathew Baker. this gives : the length of the lower part of the main mast is 1.77 times the beam. The "test mast" With improvised standing rigging (8 deadeyes). This setup seems ok to me. She will stay that way for the time being (i think about it first and then make the grooves in the channels) to be continued
  6. Due to other activities (painting and gardening) there is little time left for modeling. I made 2 doors. These doors are made in the same way as the doors in the stern and the beakhead. The only exception is that these doors are only finished on one side because the back is not visible. I also attempted to install the LED lighting. Each LED light is "hidden" by a simple lantern. I am not completely satisfied with this solution, but once the ceiling is installed it seems pretty ok. And there is sufficient light. The intention is to make the hatch of the helmsman removable and provide power to the LED lamps at this location. Thanks for following.
  7. Looks great. This way is much better than with the kit supplied parts.
  8. Welcome to MSW. What can be legally called scratch built? Maybe you will find the answer in this topic. (And I really don't know why my Minerva comes as a photo in the link )
  9. I recognize myself in these words. I sometimes have the same problem . Nice ladder and cover
  10. Thanks, It was my lucky day. The square parts of the bars measure 3 mm, the space between 2 frames is 9 mm. And there could be 2 bar behind each other between the frames. So just enough room to place the 6 bars of the capstan.
  11. Small update Found a solution to camouflage a few errors and a suitable place to stow the bars of the capstan. made 3 bars and 3 dummies glued them together and in place finished and 1 error invisible and 1 error almost invisible Thanks for following
  12. Or from now on I must wear safety clothing like at the factory where I work. Workclothes helmet safety glasses ear protection gloves and ... safety shoes
  13. Thanks GL Mostly the cannons on armed merchantman (and probably also on some warships) came from different sources. They used what was available. That is why most cannonbarrels below deck are different. And these 4 are certainly different. At the time, the barrels were forged one by one and then placed on large costum made heavy beams. Let us say that 3 pieces were already painted when they came on board. The 4th was not painted, and the budget was too low to buy extra paint Errors (not vissible on the picture) 2 Nails (bolts) come through the wood on the inside and it is now impossible to remove them.
  14. The 4 cannons are ready. Together with a part of the necessary extra parts and tools. Make hooks. Drilling holes The installation of the parts has started.(the cannons are not yet glued to the deck) Here and there I made some errors on the inside of the hull, the intention is to hide these errors with various items. These cannons look really medieval and inappropriate on a ship from this time. But historically they are correct. One cannon is placed in the front castle. I still have two small cannons to make. Thanks for following.
  15. Thanks Carl The sprues have been drilled approximately 3.5 mm deep. Caution is required during drilling. The bore is 3 mm and the outside diameter of the barrel is only 4 mm. I used 4 drills. 1 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm, and 3 mm. all drilled by hand. This is how I make plastic strips. A "photo cutter" is ideal for doing this. I have the desired thicknesses and widths always in stock this way. Bore unpainted Painted. Interior in matte black. The "top of the barrel" is then accented with pencil (also possible with matt silver)
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