Baker
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Everything posted by Baker
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Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Baker replied to Ondras71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Congrats. Nicely made cannon barrels. -
Great work Just a comment Wrong Better (the red lines show approximately the length of the beams)
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Standing rigging update Slow progress. Some parts of the rigging has been done 2 times. The first time bad, and the second time a little better. (instructions in the kit) Lower masts almost ready The hull is only 25 cm (about 10") long Thanks for following
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Using pins
Baker replied to Oddball's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Looks logical. But, Planks, wales and beams are attached with : nails, bolts ,treenails And every era has its own methods The hull of a ship from the 16th century is different from a ship at the beginning of the 19th century. If it was that easy -
Patrick
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Thanks for the link, very interesting. I apply this method with my military models. The maximum build ever was about 10 in scratch at the same time (the Hotchkiss H35 / 39 family). More than one ship at the same time simply does not work for me. Not enough experience with ships, I think.
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- galleon
- golden hind
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A "mini" Bounty. Building two ships simultaneously is too difficult for my poor brain... So, this yard is temporarily on hold
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- galleon
- golden hind
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Great work.
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Thanks Lawrence. Much appreciated. Somewhere I also read the same. I think in the book " the ship" from Bjorn landstrom. Grating will be provided in the hatches on the main deck. Building a 16th century ship is harder than I ever thought... Meanwhile. The build of this little model is the cause of all the delays on this shipyard.
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- 8
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- galleon
- golden hind
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Thanks for the nice comments and likes Started with the standing rigging. The plastic schrouds, deadeyes and blocks from the kit are useless. My deadeyes are home made. The blocks are leftovers from an Heller kit (Soleil Royal) I built this model a long time ago and kept the leftovers in my parts box. (Lucky me !!) Rigging is done as good as possible. Scale 1/110 is rather small for my fingers.
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and good luck
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Finishing and installing the masts After washing with soap and water and drying, a primer is applied. After painting, placement on the deck. Level the hull in cross length. Check whether the main mast stands straight (90°) with a "schietlood" (translation English : plumb bob ??) Just a simple piece of rope and a weight. Masts and bowsprit are in place. And are drying for 24 hours. Thanks for following
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Greetings, Patrick
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Making the masts and the bowsprit. This is more work than expected. Unusable parts are removed and replaced. Holes that are not needed are filled and sanded. Bowsprit before and after Mast parts before After Work in progress Thanks for following
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Greetings, Patrick
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Very neat and precise work 👍
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Plan A Cut or saw away a part of your rudder. You will always see that this was "recovery work" Plan B Make a new rudder that fits. And make sure the grain of the wood points in the longitudinal direction. Not in the cross direction. I would go for plan B.
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Greetings, patrick
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Greetings, and
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Your first planking. Congrats and well done 👍
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Greetings Patrick
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Welcome back and greetings from Belgium
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Thanks for the nice comments, Building and installing the longboat. Kits parts Boat build with a "mast" Hiding the ugly interior under a "tarpaulin" Ingredients : a piece of paper tissue and lots of CA glue The tissue is cut to size, pushed in the right place and completely covered with CA glue. If you do this the first time. Practice first on another piece The first time the tissue sticks everywhere it should not stick. Longboat supports Extra detail Painted, drybrushed and washed Tarpaulin tied with rope. Longboat in place and secured with rope.
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