RGL

If they made them! There are some shapeways stuff but they are the same price as the whole kit. 

Didn’t even think of that!

If I could find some relevant 1/350 German Helicopters is use them too. 

There were no end of pipe dreams available 

So apparently it was supposed to work in the shallow Baltic? You can’t see them but there are manoeuvring impellers under the bow, I cut in the doors but are not visible.

also hardly visible, the end of the flight deck (underside) with air tanks for the catapaults. 

So, apparently it could catapult a set amount of aircraft using compressed air but would then have to await the compressors to build up air again but the aircraft could take off normally using a full length of the deck. Apparently it was fully tested and worked. 

No, it predates that by a fair ways. IJN ships had them so I suspect there is some cross training involved. It appears they are pulled up by block and tackle as the blueprints show no mechanics for it.  The IJN ships seem to have lattice work underneath them but the DKM has steel under the wooden deck. 

No, it predates that by a fair ways. IJN ships had them so I suspect there is some cross training involved. It appears they are pulled up by block and tackle as the blueprints show no mechanics for it.  The IJN ships seem to have lattice work underneath them but the DKM has steel under the wooden deck. 

So where’s @Canute? 

This is what I meant. This is pretty much all the instructions given. Pretty much like jet blast deflectors.

Pretty much standard equipment really for anchors really. Even Kagero  books has a guess and they usually just make stuff up. The Infini Models upgrade has really nice Capstans but nowhere near the details on the other parts such as the catapults. 

Research i I just can’t find is how the wind defectors on the deck were deployed. 

I replaced all the anchors with North Star Models German anchors as unlike the kit ones, actually look like anchors. 

I added anchor chain brakes, a wooden strengthening plank (which was standard to protect the deck from the chain on German ships; most other nations used metal), chain stoppers and capstan handles 

i now need to weather it a tad, but you can see with the overhang of the deck this will all be hard to see. 

Back already Pat! That seems awfully quick. 

Working on the front and back decks, very lite details are on the kit, and the upgrade does not give much more. 

The rear wooden deck is supposed to be added before painting but I had to cut it down a bit to fit. The rear anchor has a hawser (circles) that does not exist in any plan or photo. 

Just be careful with the salt; it does not come off so use it very sparingly. 

 Nice start mate. 

Never say never but I don’t think that would work really. I think you just have to suck it up and go manual 

Yves, when I get to the top of the boat I’ll get to the Cats etc as I’ve been saving up some images too, but thank you. 

Mr Coyle, my posit was no Russia and No USA in this scenario. I understand that the Nazi’s could never have won since they kicked off Barbarossa. The impact on Enigma’s loss  on the Uboat war was devastating on Germany. 

I framed the scenario in such a way they could have an impact and it’s the only viable usage of them. The WW2 photos of convoys of aircraft carriers really do show what the outcome could only be. If the Soviets did not stop at Berlin........

Harley, apparently enamel for paint was in short supply and a big tall ship like would be near impossible to paint at sea. 

Glad to have you heard mate. 

Starboard side done. 

Don’t panic Cog, I’ll do some more dusting at the end. 

So Grunging part 3; Rust. Using Schwartzbraun as a base layer, then dark rust then light rust. 

That’ll do 

If I was going to do a Huge Submarine like Yves, is probably use chipping fluids. The difficulty with the camo scheme is not destroying it. 

This US Carrier shows how grubby they get at sea, 

10 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

I get it and I understand the fun of turning a model into  a beat-up ship. Please, document your process and tell us how you do it and what products you use. I want to rust my submarine too, as you suggested in a very early post.

 

Thanks in advance.

Yves

Basically look at photos of real ships to look for rust points, and see how it flows down the hull. As the side of this hull is so large I can’t imagine upkeep at sea would be easy. 

Pretty much a process of sponging on some black or using a brush , then dark rust then light rust. 

I want to rust it. It’s fun.  And if I don’t, Cog will pick on me. 

Yves, read post #1

With thin CA and a toothpick you’d be fine, take longer to drill out the holes. 

Grunging part 2, streaking grime from every porthole and edge, I used salt from the portholes painted navy. Rust is next