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Tigersteve

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Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Tigersteve
    Determining the planking belts. Tick strips were used to determine and mark the halfway point of the remaining area to be planked. This was done from bulkhead D through 4B. Adjustments were made based off these measurements. I could use our experts feedback on the lines of these belts especially at the bow. Steve
  2. Tigersteve
    You should test on scrap wood. Steve
  3. Tigersteve
    I would use a long free cloth wrapped around your finger and rub your finger between the ribs. Direction doesn’t matter too much on the inside of the hull. Floorboards will cover some of the finish anyway. What stain color did you decide? Steve
  4. Tigersteve
    Closed up the starboard gun ports. Port side will be presented open. Steve
  5. Tigersteve
    Beautiful work. Steve
  6. Tigersteve
    Port side planking is complete. Two coats of wipe-on-poly applied at this point. I hope the photos show how nice this batch of cherry wood is. Steve
  7. Tigersteve
    @ASAT just trying to add some humor to this. Didn’t mean to offend.
  8. Tigersteve
    Chuck- Your tutorials are so clear. People are lucky you’ve provided templates for lining off the hull. Next, people will be asking you to mail them completed models. 😆 Steve
  9. Tigersteve
    Now that the initial phase of hull planking is almost complete, I thought it would be useful to share the method I’ve been using to plank around this tricky bow. 1. Measure 80% of the 1/8” plank width and mark at the tip of the plank. It’s .1”. I use digital calipers for this. Mark 3” from the edge of the plank and draw a line from this point to mark the taper. I sand up to this line by running the plank across a 220 grit sanding block. 2. Bevel the plank to fit against the previously laid plank on the hull. 3. Soak the plank in hot water for 5-10 minutes. (This is the only time I use water.) 4. Clamp the plank to the hull and heat the plank until it’s dry. Let it cool. 5. Mark the butt joint and sand. Test fit on the hull. 6. When you have a nice fit, mark the edge of the plank to simulate caulking. 7. Apply glue and re-clamp. For the hot water I use a Keurig. I keep a disposable coffee cup in my work area. This works well since the plank lengths at the bow are short. I’ve included a photo of the clamping. Steve
  10. Tigersteve
    Two more strakes to go port side. The gun ports are much sharper with a more consistent rabbet. The planking on this side is coming out much cleaner. I will most likely close the gun ports starboard and leave the ones port side open. I’m learning a lot from this initial planking. Steve
  11. Tigersteve
    Beautiful presentation and model! Steve
  12. Tigersteve
    People think everything is going to magically sand clean after sloppily planking. Don’t know why. The cleaner it is before you sand, the cleaner it will be after. One piece at a time! Steve
  13. Tigersteve
    I like the idea of a stern section. Steve
  14. Tigersteve
    Very sharp. Excellent as always. Steve
  15. Tigersteve
    Excited to see a Confederacy build from you, especially after an excellent Syren build! Steve
  16. Tigersteve
    Planking around gun ports- The plank is cut to size and pre-bent with dry heat. Bevel the edge as necessary to get a tight fit. Next, mark the port openings using a straight edge. I like to file the edges and then draw a horizontal reference line representing the top of the opening. Various files are used and the fit of the plank is checked constantly until there is a clean 1/64” reveal. Still working on a more uniform reveal. Steve
  17. Tigersteve
    Very good advice, Mike! Steve
  18. Tigersteve
    The last version looks much cleaner and the color contrast with the boxwood is very nice. I’m going to need some moldings for my Confederacy 😜. Steve
  19. Tigersteve
    The initial planking is completed starboard. Sanding was done with 220 grit followed by 400 grit. Two coats of Wipe-On-Poly were applied with a 400 grit sanding between coats. 1/16” thick strips were a good design choice for this project. It allows for the needed sanding at the bow, which is tricky to say the least. I planked in scale length planks and left an approx 1/64” rabbet around the gun ports. Steve
  20. Tigersteve
    Here is a company I’ve used for the display case. https://www.casesforcollectibles.com/ Steve
  21. Tigersteve
    Figure out a case for sure. It would be a shame.
  22. Tigersteve
    Beautiful model! Steve
  23. Tigersteve
    Another masterpiece in the making. Steve
  24. Tigersteve
    Some really nice work here. Steve
  25. Tigersteve
    I marked off the reference lines for the initial planks with the bulwark template. Since I will only be planking one layer, I’m trying to figure out the scale lengths and planking pattern for butt ends. I calculated about 4” planks at this scale. I’m trying to follow Chuck’s planking pattern. It seems that some lengths used were longer than 4”. Are all planks supposed to be 4”? Looking for guidance on scale length planks. Steve

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