aliluke
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Everything posted by aliluke
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Hello Augie Seems some logs just pass me by - no idea why. Just been through yours, every page; this is great stuff, superb model making and I'll follow from now on. Sorry to be a stranger! -
Yep. Just dumb old commercial wood filler - the brand is Wattyl. As my deck was holly and very pale I went for the palest waterborne wood filler "Pine" and then diluted it with "Neutral" to make it even paler. The treenails completely disappear. What a lot of work for no outcome...but if you look closely you can see them, from above they can't be seen. I stuffed up the quarter deck though by mixing up my micro drill bits and making the holes too big. As it weathers, this difference won't be noticed at the end of the build (I hope).
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Having enjoyed your SOS I'm looking forward to this complex model unfold. Looking really good so far and it is in very safe hands! Earlier you referred to Titebond glue - do you get it locally? I've never seen it in any Wellington hardware stores.
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Nice work Bob. I just used a wood paste for the tree nails and mixed it up so that it was about the same colour as the deck. It makes them almost disappear but was an easy exercise - smear it on and scrape/sand it off.
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Hi Brian I think you are right that the scuppers would be at deck level but it is a tiny detail in the context of things. The trick I reckon is not to try to take the scuppers all the way through the hull. Alignment is really, really hard. I've seen a few AVS's with over sized scuppers (to my eye) that go all the way through. I did my scuppers above the waterway and just blacked them out on the inside face. Did the same on the outside of the hull with an approximate alignment. On the outside they go through the black strake and it takes a keen eye even to see them but they are there. Unless you've got brass balls (as we say here) cutting them all the way through can lead to a real mess and vastly over scaled scuppers. I certainly won't be trying it on HMS Fly.
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Hi Ray I look in on your model as I follow Jesselee's Scottish Maid. There is a lot of good advice therein. She's also looks like a very nice model to build. I'd avoid solvent for surplus glue. I'd also avoid sanding. Use a scraper - a razor blade or the back edge of a box cutter knife and then gently scrape with the blade at about 45 degrees to the surface. Do not gouge. After that carefully finish with sandpaper. I'm glad to hear you are planking the deck cabins. It seems you have fixed the backing blocks to the deck and then intend to plank them? That is your call but I reckon it is easier to make these parts off the model and then fix them down. Going back to Jesse's Maid, your bowsprit is angled very high in comparison to his - see page 22 of his log. I don't know the model but, just to my eye, your sprit looks angled a bit too high for any ship. Hard to change that now but maybe for the future... Wishing you well with your progress and I'll keep looking in.
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All is looking great Brett. The full cannon rig is tedious but I'm still happy I went the distance, that said, your rig amongst all the other details is, as you say, less busy and works just fine to my eye. You really get a sense of the outrageous scale of the full rig when the sprit goes on. I put it on before the mast but switched to a much wider working space to avoid the moments when spinning the model around. I used an architects drawing table which you can lift and lower to suit. I pretty much went to standing up to do all my work from this point on - you can see the table in my log. With the sprit and mast on she really comes alive.Such a dynamic little ship. Enjoy the rigging - I did!
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Big improvement Joe. Ladders are tricky and a good ladder, as a wee part, gives a real lift to the overall picture. Love your model, she is going to be a beauty!
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I don't know a thing about power tools - don't own any - but if that's a goody I'll believe you. But I'd advise that you run that very first centre plank the full length of the deck. It is all too easy to get drift on the plank runs from a slightly off line centre plank and it'll start to hurt a few planks either side of it. It is easy to trim the centre plank back to the hatches later but much harder and more annoying to rip off all the drifting planks that come from a slightly off line start (I speak from experience ). With a short plank that alignment is much harder to judge. From the photo I reckon your first centre plank has a faint starboard drift. I could be wrong but it is certainly easier to align and centre with a full length plank. This applies to the upper decks as well.
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You're hard on yourself Brian. Looks really good to me. I took the painted hull route as I liked it better (and still do) so I guess I had more scope for planking gaffes. I did have stealers at the stern but think I got through to the bow without joggling. Any way a few layers of paint sorted everything out!!! If you are going for a natural finish it is a bit more of challenge but you seem to perfectly positioned to be up for it.
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I definitely would not glue the hatches down before planking the deck. It would make cleaning up the deck after planking very difficult. I did the deck planking before even making the hatches and then made them fractionally over sized allowing a light sanding of the coamings to lead to a very tight fit.
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Mike You sure are taking this to another level! I just used boxwood for the frames and the kit supplied gratings. Both served me well but I sense your mission is more intense. I'm looking forward to the results. I can't argue for one stain or another - that is balancing act for your vision of the completed model.
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Like your haul from Reno - amazing. And nice to see a pass it forward from that. Your planking looks just fine to me. Nothing to die in a ditch about at all. Remember there are sanders and fillers to come followed by another layer. A good line with that first planking is to use it as practice for the second layer but not lose any real sleep over it. I swear it is already much better laid than mine was at the same stage. Carry on, stay calm and enjoy.
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Hey Jesse Well fixed. I smacked the stern of my Fly against the wall the other day. Fortunately only paint came off. You just forget sometimes and do in a second what takes hours to fix. We all belong to this club!
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CA glue question
aliluke replied to MikeB4's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Jay Tried to send you a PM but it says you can't receive any new messages - message box too full?. Just wanted to catch-up so thought I'd indicate this here. Sending you a "Like" to signal. -
Wish that gentleman well! Tell him someone from New Zealand said that and that they have been to Reno (many years ago).. Great work too by the way.
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Big time! Now we can give you a really hard time about your work . Brian thsi should be pinned somewhere.
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Hi Bob I use Photoshop to resize my images, I also use it to saturate the images until they are more like the real colours that I see. Generally they are at 4000 x whatever and click in at 2.5 MB. By resizing them down to 1900 x whatever I just get under the limit and produce big images on the forum. Photoshop is expensive but I have it for other uses. There are other free programmes that perform the same function - Google away! I'm often frustrated by how small some images are here. I want to zoom in. At the same time my images give me moments where - "Hey that can't be seen by the naked eye!"
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Looking really sweet Jesse. Your work has all the precision that I admire, great stuff.
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Hi Mike - I won't start a conversation with B.E in your log but he is your (our) man for better information and understanding than I have! I'm also going to show the bridle port closed. It is meant to be narrower than the other ports but the kit pattern makes it the same. I haven't made it narrower - a ship spotter will notice...but what the hell. As B.E says, photograph what you can't see later, 'tis the only proof of your efforts . Spyglass's advice is very good but from what I've seen of your previous work you'll be on to that any way.
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I can only wish you luck Mike. The curvature of the planks will disappear under the upper decks. I curved the forecastle and quarter deck planks with variable success - these at least can be seen. Curving them and then losing sight of them sees a bit mad...but it is your groove to follow. There is a whole discussion here - making things that can't be seen later. The bulkheads were break-out pieces. So if the bulkhead is in place the guns would be run-in and the ports closed. If you leave the bulkheads out then add the cants on the deck, it is a nice little detail but I reckon the cannon should be run-out in that configuration. I left off the aft most cannons and put in a bulkhead forward of this post to justify that. Why? I didn't want to rig more cannons than I could get in packs of 4. So doing 16 cannons was a good idea rather than rigging 18 and paying for 20! Cheap...yep but I bet the commanders of these ships thought the same way. Also making a closed port lid is an interesting little model challenge...Conclusion - if the bulkhead is in place the cannon fore or aft of that, under the upper decks, would be stowed and the lid closed. If you like bulkheads or cannons becomes the question. I don't think you can have both.
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Sharp as mate. With this foundation yours is going to be a great AVS! Sleep well and keep it coming.
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Echo the above Nils. Fantastic work. But please promise not to add more detail to that sailor on the seat of ease .
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That stern and fashion pieces look fine to me Brian. I didn't glaze the windows until much later in the build - not a consious decision with respect to sawdust - but just because I struggled to find a source for Microglaze. As for counting the costs I never go there!!
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Hi Ryland This is a part of the forum that I've never really looked at. Now I'm here I've found your log of your stunning longboat. A fascinating project and beautifully rendered by you - no surprise there! I'll keep following.
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