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aliluke

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Everything posted by aliluke

  1. aliluke
    Brian - You remain totally in control - great work. Really like those photos which show the sweep of the hull - nice, I asked earlier, but is that little gold moulding going to be put on above the black strake? It is worth it - full run of the hull but a nice addition. I am envious that you have a serving machine - this must be next on my list of non-power tools.
  2. aliluke
    Mobbsie I have failed as an active member to take account of your build by any comments. It is fantastic and congratulations. I'll troll back through it again although I've looked in before. It is amazing - well done!!!
  3. aliluke
    Hi Brian Those scuppers look just fine to me - exactly the right scale to my eye. Much better doing them that way than the potential damage caused by taking off the black strake. As a detail, in the long run, they pale into insignificance amongst all the other details. You should be fine on the gun ports as you have followed all of the other relationships correctly. It is worth checking now though. Are you adding the little gold moulding along the top of the black strake? It makes a nice touch and slightly raises the gun port as it needs a sill liner in the port to compensate for the height of the moulding above the strake. Your caulking choice is a good one and looks good too. One advantage of the pencil on one side is that if you get a gap for any reason you can fill it with a sawdust/white glue mix and get rid of it. If you have pencil on both sides you get a caulking line on both sides of the filled gap which looks worse than the gap. Danny demonstrates this somewhere in the forums - I'll have a look for it and post a link. I penciled (HB) both sides but won't do so in the future based on his advice. P.S. I deleted those photos from my post to remove any confusion about whose ship is who's. Can P.M. them to you if you'd still like the reference. Edit: Brian - Here is that link for fixing gaps and the advantage of ONE side only caulking - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/814-how-i-fix-boo-boos-and-oopsies-mistakes-by-dan-vadas-share-your-own-fixes-here/
  4. aliluke
    Hi Martin I've not yet tried to spile. Definitely next on my learning list but with Fly I only needed a couple of stealers at the stern and very little fill to get the shape. I'm hard on my planks and use CA to make them conform. I also follow the advice to get every plank into the stem without turning pointed planks up to an upper line of horizontal planks. The trick is to taper early and taper way further back along the hull than you'd expect. At the stern the only option on Fly is to spile or use stealers. My next build will see me spile. So for that first layer - I'd suggest stealers and, if you get over width stock for the second layer, try spiling. If you do that you'll have beat me to it!
  5. aliluke
    To illustrate I just took some pictures of my model - man it is dusty and notice how much the deck has yellowed - not unhappy with that! External scuppers and internal scuppers - each just finished with some black paint and no full penetration. Attached - taken just a minute ago. Keep them small I reckon. Same applies to the sweep ports. Edit: Also worth noting the use of getting the definition of the planking joints through the paint - inside and out? Edit: Deleted the photo attachments to avoid confusion.
  6. aliluke
    Brian before you rip off the black strakes consider forming the scuppers with them in place. Use a small drill bit to form the basic shape and then file to get the final shape. I don't think the scuppers need to go right through the hull. To do so and get inside/outside alignment for a full penetration is extremely difficult and in the overall context of the build is not necessary. I've seen modellers do this and the scuppers end up being far too big and ugly. The scuppers in my black strake are mere hints and give an indication of their existence rather than anything else. It does not detract from the model - they are there. As I just said, getting full penetration through the hull could end up being a bigger mess and getting a useful hint of them being there is a better approach in my opinion. I certainly won't try to get the scuppers on my Fly from the hull all the way through to the waterway. Almost impossible and far too risky.
  7. aliluke
    Paint or natural - it is going to look great. I find the two alternative names very funny being exact opposites. By my dictionary: Cheerful - Having a happy disposition, in good spirits. Surly - Sullenly ill-tempered or rude. Whatever scheme for paint or not you use, I guess you could choose your name by how well your build goes. I'd be calling yours "Cheerful" others, who build it, may have to go with "Surly"
  8. aliluke
    Very nice Ray - it is really looking the business now.
  9. aliluke
    I think Admiralty paints are regarded as better than MS but I haven't tried the latter. Yes - soft Kleenex type tissue paper. Edit: Referring to your next post - I'd still try to get a second opinion first!
  10. aliluke
    Stop sanding. Carefully apply a final coat being sure to get good coverage. When really dry, rub it back with tissue paper to flatten out any brush strokes. Seal it - I use Testors Dullcote - and then when, that is dry, rub it lightly with tissue paper. The more vigourously you rub the more sheen you'll get so that is your call. That's my advice. But I'd wait for other opinions before following it! What paint brand are you using? I use Admiralty for the bulwarks and it has very good coverage.
  11. aliluke
    Looking sweet. Q: Why do you blacken the topside of the bulkheads at the deck and their extensions up the bulwarks?
  12. aliluke
    A very fine stove there indeed. You'll be surprised how little of it can be seen when the forecastle deck goes on .
  13. aliluke
    All looks fine to me Martin. My experience was that all the planking over the bearding line at the stern had be pretty much sanded off to allow the second layer to fit to the stern post. But you'll get to that need or otherwise in due course. As you'll probably know I had a whole boxwood hull at one point and it sure does look good. Then I painted and coppered - sacrilege.
  14. aliluke
    Agree with the above - fantastic work and you're nearly there. So...what's in the pipeline?
  15. aliluke
    Hi Mike 1/- I'm using Morope mainly because I have a lot left over from my AVS build (a major mis-calulation!). I haven't even looked at the Amati line but you can be sure Chuck's will be far superior. 2/- Remaking all the bitts by hand is pretty easy. I just use a knife, sandpaper and files. I don't have a mill though so can't the compare the speed but I'm perfectly happy with my "by hand" accuracy.
  16. aliluke
    Go far left. My opinion - the others are too strong or uneven. But you'd be surprised by, that, after a few years these little details just settle down.
  17. aliluke
    Looking good Mike. Sounds like I got my jeer bitts around the wrong way. Too late now. I'd be seriously cautious about staining the deck. Get it slightly uneven and you'd have to start all over again. Definitely not a place I'd go.
  18. aliluke
    Looking very good Vitus. Are you going to post a shot of your stern?
  19. aliluke
    Hi Brian Sorry I can't recall. I probably use about 7 or 8 coats of paint these days + 4 to 5 coats of lacquer. That is nothing compared to Chuck Passaro who does up to 30 coats! Keep it thin and the layering of paint doesn't end up with a big build up but certainly a resilience. That said the number of touch ups that I've done on Fly due to the fitting of other parts kind of ruined the initial finish. That's just the way it goes. . But the
  20. aliluke
    I think I'll give you the heads up! Take a tot. Sweet work.
  21. aliluke
    A note of care from my point of view. Don't try to get it too perfect. Reading the planks and their joints and grain through the paint is a better outcome than solid colour. It is a juggling act but imperfections can add up to a more authentic looking model.I intentionally made the plank joints stand out on my AVS and I'm glad I did so.
  22. aliluke
    That looks great. I've nearly finished the heads on Fly. As you say it is definitely a part that you want in the rearview mirror!
  23. aliluke
    It looks absolutely superb Hamilton. Good on ya!
  24. aliluke
    You are in total control there Brian. Great work!
  25. aliluke
    Hi Frank I wouldn't try weathering myself but you are a master at it. I want my ships to be straight out the yard but that is because I don't have your skills. Still, like Mobbsie, I'm a bit sad to see your great, fresh, planking being given a few dozen years of hell.

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