aliluke
-
Posts
1,357 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by aliluke
-
Hi Brian I used the kit supplied deadeyes and eyes but replaced all the other blocks. If Chuck's blocks had been around at the time I would have used them but I got mine from Warner Woods West. I used the kit supplied false deck but replaced the decking with "Japanese Cedar" which I found in a local hobby shop. It is very similar to holly. I definitely would not use the kit supplied decking as it is too soft and furry. However I can't see any reason to replace the false deck plywood. Hope that helps.- 831 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Armed Virginia Sloop
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
As always I look forward to another AVS build. She is a beauty and she builds into a fantastic model. I had no real problems with the kit at all except for the usual adjustments. Enjoy it!
-
Hi Bill The few wales I've done are layered over the planking rather than being thicker planks. It is more correct for them to be thick planks but it is very hard to do this and my results with overlaying have always worked out just fine. Depending on your finishes - paint or natural - setting the curve of overlaid wales is important. If you are painting - who cares (see my AVS log)? If leaving natural you do need to care (see my Fly log).
-
Hi Bill Good to see you back again! I agree with Harvey but I'm not so sure about your ship, as in I don't know it or know the kit. Is it designed as a single planked hull? If it is, I reckon the main issues, as Harvey suggests, will be at the stem, keel and stern post. I'd be less worried about the thickness of the hull. You can control this. That said, if it is a single plank designed kit I'd tend to stick with that. I'd rather turn a double-planked design into a single than the other way around. There are all sorts of issues that might bite you later. For a first up I'd stick with the kit as designed.
-
That must be a relief - well done. Now the fun part - planking!
- 467 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fly
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
Very, very nice Vitus. I'm not looking forward to these parts and that is an admirable lead.
-
Hi Mike This is very passionate work. I guess these are trials...bulkhead extension 6 is removed from my memory, bulkhead 5 might go as well - can't remember. Anyway I enjoy your commitment to paint without paint and I'm very intrigued to see how your approach unfolds. Paint is my friend for this complex build!
-
Superb work. Will be looking back at your head works when my turn to make them comes = very soon .
-
I'm stumped by this - no idea what is going on. The only thing I can think of is that the bulkheads are not properly seated on the centre keel - that is they sitting slightly too high at either the stern or the stem which in turn distorts the layout of the plywood patterns. Impossible to change this now, so take the big plunge and adjust as you progress? I still reckon getting the flow of the sills and heads of the ports is important though. Not much help I'm afraid...
- 467 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- fly
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi Martin Spyglass's advice is good. I had a gap at this joint but it was an even gap. Your joint is tight at the top and open at the bottom. This implies the strips are not going to flow along the hull. Even in your photo I sense a lack of flow between the two ports we can see. I did not reinforce the gap in my joint with any backing bits. I merely filled it up with epoxy glue. Strong as can be after that. I also had a kink at the joint but this has worked itself out now with the planking layers and the cap rail will kill it any appearance of it completely. I noted on Vitus's build that he had the same thing occur. These plywood strips are a devils of things to get on. My feeling is to take the plunge and resolve the minor issues that may, or may not, arise later. As long as they are aligned with the bulkhead tops and reasonably aligned along the hull there is plenty of room for adjustments later on through the planking process and other fiddles. Certainly my gun ports are not at exactly even heights above the deck but, as Spy says, there is plenty of room to manipulate this fault with the guns themselves. Bottom line - I reckon anyone who got these pieces installed to absolute perfection did so by a fluke. You'll do your head in fussing about it too much and you need to get planking!
- 467 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- fly
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
Very good looking coppering there Sjors. If you want to speed up that patina have a look at my Fly log. A free and frequently available chemical is demonstrated that will age copper about 100 years in about two days.
- 1,616 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- caldercraft
- agamemnon
- (and 1 more)
-
Looks very good to me Brett. The planking colour on the deck will settle down in time. Mine was pure white when laid and is now an even dark yellow. Next? You are ready to rig and then this little ship takes on a whole other dimension! One to enjoy.The length of the sprit and the height of the mast will knock your socks off. This is when it really comes to life.
-
Hi Timmo I'm envious of that machine and may just have to break down and get one. Looking good. Also envious of your potential wood haul! I used matai on my AVS for the poop deck planking, hatch covers and some other more minor bits. The AVS build base is kauri. Matai would make a great modelling timber - better than rimu I reckon. Kahikatea is not so good - too soft. Captain Cook and others that followed felled these mighty trees for spars and masting only to find that they quickly rotted and turned to mush. Such a shame. The entire Thames Valley was predominately kahikatea forest and Cook's descriptions of taking a long boat up that river is mind boggling when you see it today. Also Hutt Valley in Wellington also had huge stands of kahikatea along the river. They didn't bother to log those they just burnt the lot. Beautiful spring day here too. Yay for summer to come!
- 366 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- granado
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Mind boggling Denis. Amazing rigging! I do hope you find a home for this magnificent model at home.
- 555 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- sovereign of the seas
- mantua
- (and 1 more)
-
Nice work on those cap squares. I couldn't make brass work for these parts and ended up just using thin card painted black. Glad to hear you are heading down here. The best months weather wise are February and March. Also I recommend Abel Tasman National Park. A bit off the usual tourist trail but my favourite place and it is where we spend our annual summer holiday.
-
I definitely like the thinner thread and it also makes your splice more compact. Nice one!
-
Hi Peter I have a fondest for these ships as the Sergal Dutch Whaler was the first wooden ship I attempted. A mad proposition as the stern and bow where both incomprehensible because of their curves. I still have the hull all made up but the kit is such crap that I've never finished it. If you'd like photos I'm be happy to send by a PM. I don't want to bomb your log with my dross! Let me know but otherwise I'll keep watching your log. The stern and bow of these ships is a killer - they must be the hardest to plank of any hull shape. Endeavour would be a dream in comparison and that says a lot. And I tried it as my first wooden ship build - what a fool I was. That said they are great subjects and the intensity of their form is worth resolving. You are doing very well - better than I did that is for sure. I'll be following
-
Very nice work on Carmen Brian and I can definitely recommend the AVS - a great choice you have made there, she builds into a wonderful model.
- 119 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- carmen
- constructo
- (and 2 more)
-
Hi Ian I wrap my breeching line so can't help with the splicing. However I would suggest that 0.7mm rope looks a bit heavy to my eye. I use 0.6mm at 1/64 (much research was done - i.e. I copied the size from someone elses log who did do the research...) so at 1/75 I think 0.7mm is perhaps overscaled.
-
Every thing I've seen has the chimney facing forward. Except for those pictures that have it facing aft . I reckon it should face with the wind = forwards. Being baffled that works fine for me. Wonderful work in all regards. I look forward to more.
-
Hi Always good to see another AVS get off the ground. She builds into a great ship model and you have made a solid start. As to those pesky bulkheads you have to add as well as remove material. I probably added the most amidships and removed the most at the bow and stern. Take your time on this part of the build...good foundations count for a lot. There is no reason why you can't go back and forth. Sometimes I'd add a shim only to sand it off again as I adjusted the bulkheads to get the right flow for the planks. I'll be following and thanks for sharing.
-
Hi Alex Just came across your log. Your Prince is looking good. Making things - any thing - is a great way to spend time. Sometimes frustrating but more often than not it is very rewarding, I'm glad to see you are enjoying this craft and I'm pleased that you chose to make a ship. Keep it up mate!
-
Hi Martin I echo Spy's comments (if I read them right) and add some: - Fit the gun port patterns to the top of the bulkheads as a first priority. - Do not adjust them to fit the kit supplied cannons on the basis of a raw fit. - If you go by the correct fit of the patterns you can adjust the barrel elevation or other elements to get the cannon centred on the gun port. - Absolute centring of the barrel within the port no longer matters to me. There are too many other elements at play to make this of long term interest!
- 467 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- fly
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi Bob I'm sure you are sick of the rope discussion but I'm going to add that the springiness of the Morope is the very reason I like it. I found on my AVS that it allows you to create a taut looking rope at a variety of tensions. This made doing the shrouds a breeze. That said B.E is right - it is very hard to get it to drape naturally and it does have a life of its own at times. Anyway - onwards. Your decking looks great - tight and accurate. I think adding margins and nibbing, joggling or hooding the planks at the margins adds a great deal to the model's appearance and is well worth the extra effort.
Our Emblem ®
